Just cleaned my Wildcat 177 after 500 shot of lubed pellets. The first 2 patches after the "scrub" were absolutely black. It looks like I haven't cleaned this thing since it was a baby. wow.. Never expected it to be this dirty.
Cleaning The WildCat .177
- Thread starter Crusher
- Start date
Hey Crush, so I was reading a recent post about lubed pellets through a smooth twist or smooth twist X, can’t recall, and the problem was the barrel getting dirty luke that, but maybe much frequently?
Anyway, I was wondering how your accuracy was with it up till now. I’m assuming you tried lubed vs unlubed? Did you decide to clean because of accuracy or because you were due?
Any thoughts? What did you learn in the process?
Anyway, I was wondering how your accuracy was with it up till now. I’m assuming you tried lubed vs unlubed? Did you decide to clean because of accuracy or because you were due?
Any thoughts? What did you learn in the process?
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Yes I started with unlubed pellets. It shoots the JSB 10's the best. I read the thread you are talking about and that is why I posted this thread. I didn't want to argue with anyone. Just posting the info and how it is working for me.
The gun was pretty accurate but the pellets wondered around a bit. Most likely because it was shooting at 955 fps. Once I got it tuned back just a bit to shoot at a more modest 905, the gun settled down and was a good one ragged hole shooter.
Next I went to the lubed pellets. I found that they shot about 5 fps faster (average) but seemed to tuck into a smaller hole. I also noticed fewer, what I would call fliers. Nothing just way out of the box, but not the regular shot I expected. With the lubed pellets, I shot an entire tin before I noticed that it seems to be sneaking out of the "normal" for what this gun can shoot.
I was about 100 shots into the next tin when I realized it wasn't shooting as well. So I decided to clean it and see if it went back to its normal self. As you can see from the pictures, it was beyond filthy. I ran maybe 30 patches through and it still has a tint of lead. So I ran another wet patch through. Black again. Ugh... And by the way, by wet I mean Hoppe's 9. So I did a second scrub. I use a brass brush and Corbin Benchrest cleaner. I push it through and scrub back and forth a couple of inches at a time until I reach the end of the barrel. Then start pulling patches through. On the second time it was very black and took another 25 patches or so to get back to clean. I still don't feel like the barrel is really clean. I'm going to remove the barrel and clean it down to "squeaky" later this week.
So I find that it does shoot a little tighter groups with lubed pellets. I also find that the barrel gets really dirty in 500 pellets. Dirty enough to effect the shot. So it is probably effecting the shot before that and I just don't notice it. I'm thinking maybe pull a string of pellets through at 250 and see what they look like. So I will be keeping an eye on what happens and post the results here.
I'm going to do 2 things: Shoot 250 pellets unlubed and clean the barrel to see how dirty it gets in 250. Then I'll shoot 250 lubed and then clean the barrel again to check it. I'm curious to see how those compare. Meantime, I'll be shooting some cards of 25 shots with both lubed and unlubed to see how both effect the accuracy.
Anyone else with pellet lubing experience, please chime in.
Crusher
The gun was pretty accurate but the pellets wondered around a bit. Most likely because it was shooting at 955 fps. Once I got it tuned back just a bit to shoot at a more modest 905, the gun settled down and was a good one ragged hole shooter.
Next I went to the lubed pellets. I found that they shot about 5 fps faster (average) but seemed to tuck into a smaller hole. I also noticed fewer, what I would call fliers. Nothing just way out of the box, but not the regular shot I expected. With the lubed pellets, I shot an entire tin before I noticed that it seems to be sneaking out of the "normal" for what this gun can shoot.
I was about 100 shots into the next tin when I realized it wasn't shooting as well. So I decided to clean it and see if it went back to its normal self. As you can see from the pictures, it was beyond filthy. I ran maybe 30 patches through and it still has a tint of lead. So I ran another wet patch through. Black again. Ugh... And by the way, by wet I mean Hoppe's 9. So I did a second scrub. I use a brass brush and Corbin Benchrest cleaner. I push it through and scrub back and forth a couple of inches at a time until I reach the end of the barrel. Then start pulling patches through. On the second time it was very black and took another 25 patches or so to get back to clean. I still don't feel like the barrel is really clean. I'm going to remove the barrel and clean it down to "squeaky" later this week.
So I find that it does shoot a little tighter groups with lubed pellets. I also find that the barrel gets really dirty in 500 pellets. Dirty enough to effect the shot. So it is probably effecting the shot before that and I just don't notice it. I'm thinking maybe pull a string of pellets through at 250 and see what they look like. So I will be keeping an eye on what happens and post the results here.
I'm going to do 2 things: Shoot 250 pellets unlubed and clean the barrel to see how dirty it gets in 250. Then I'll shoot 250 lubed and then clean the barrel again to check it. I'm curious to see how those compare. Meantime, I'll be shooting some cards of 25 shots with both lubed and unlubed to see how both effect the accuracy.
Anyone else with pellet lubing experience, please chime in.
Crusher
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ive always been nervous about brass brushs dont use them for fear of damage ,,,i guess i been in the clouds all this time ,,just read several articles about how its ok to do this ,,i would think lubed would collect lead faster ,,was thinking on getting a MEGALODON of my own ,,to go with my 25 cal WILDCAT ,,
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I wouldnt use a powder burner solvent in any of my airguns as it may damage the orings. I have great results using balistol in all my airguns.
. Cleaning and lubing pellets yourself can cut down on all the swarf left over from manufacture proccess.
. Cleaning and lubing pellets yourself can cut down on all the swarf left over from manufacture proccess.
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That is good info. Thanks. Maybe one of these days I will give the oiling a try. Although I don’t have an FX, but maybe my CZs or WL may like it.
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badammo
The only reason I went with hoppe's is because I had scrubbed the barrel with Corbin's already and then run balistol patches, then clean patches. After 25 patches and I'm still getting lead, the barrel isn't clean. So I went with the Hoppe's to cut the lead out of the barrel. It isn't my first choice but when it comes to cutting lead, not much beats Hoppe's.
I'm going to pull the barrel from the gun and get it really clean so I have a baseline to do my own lubed vs not lubed. The only o-ring involved is the one in the breech. I'll replace it when I have it apart.
I clean my pellets in alcohol or acetone depending on which one I have on hand at the time. Let them dry and stir gently. From there I lube them. But sometimes I sort them by weight to close up the groups. So far it appears the lubed pellets group just a tiny bit better. Mainly I see fewer fliers. And keep in mind, my testing is all at backyard max of 30 yards. YMMV especially if you are shooting at greater distances.
Crusher
The only reason I went with hoppe's is because I had scrubbed the barrel with Corbin's already and then run balistol patches, then clean patches. After 25 patches and I'm still getting lead, the barrel isn't clean. So I went with the Hoppe's to cut the lead out of the barrel. It isn't my first choice but when it comes to cutting lead, not much beats Hoppe's.
I'm going to pull the barrel from the gun and get it really clean so I have a baseline to do my own lubed vs not lubed. The only o-ring involved is the one in the breech. I'll replace it when I have it apart.
I clean my pellets in alcohol or acetone depending on which one I have on hand at the time. Let them dry and stir gently. From there I lube them. But sometimes I sort them by weight to close up the groups. So far it appears the lubed pellets group just a tiny bit better. Mainly I see fewer fliers. And keep in mind, my testing is all at backyard max of 30 yards. YMMV especially if you are shooting at greater distances.
Crusher
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Here is the piece of the barrel I am trying to remove. I don't want to chew it up by grabbing it with pliers.
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What about doing the high polishing of the barrel? That might could help. Also was just reading Steve's post on the MK-II and he was mentioning that cleanup was a snap with you being able to just pull the barrel liner out at will.
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I see if you pull the barrel liner out it does not really matter what solvent you use as long as its all removed.
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Stop Do not take that apart. It is chemicaly welded to the shroud and barrel if you try to unscrew the shroud it will strip the rear threads on the shroud support and may even rotate the rear shroud support and barrel which will damage the brass barrel support. You are asking for touble if you take these things apart for any reason. Plus it voids youR warranty. Like you I wanted to keen my gun clean and ended up in a world of hurt. I’m still waiting on parts to fix it 2 mounths later."crusher75060"Here is the piece of the barrel I am trying to remove. I don't want to chew it up by grabbing it with pliers.
CH
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What a stupid idea to weld that part so it can't be taken apart.
I've been told that if you heat it, it will release. I haven't tried it yet because I'm waiting to hear back from Master Rowe.
Crusher
I've been told that if you heat it, it will release. I haven't tried it yet because I'm waiting to hear back from Master Rowe.
Crusher
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You can’t unscrew the shroud because the barrel is threaded 1/2-20 and the rear shroud support is meteric 1.25 mm pitch 2 differnt rates plus FX glops on the loctite/chemical weld on all the parts, I heated mine untill the anadize got so hot it turned brown. Those vidios on disassembly is not what they seem. Those guns they use have taken appart a 100 times and don’t show how to do it wthout destroying the parts which you can’t get replaced under warranty, or even buy them. Do as you like it is yor gun, just know what you are risking.
CH
CH
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I appreciate the input. I'm waiting for info from a couple of parts resources I've found and I'll post here what they tell me.
And btw, I haven't see any videos on taking this part off. All the ones online are off a different shroud. So far I haven't found a single video that talks about this shroud. That is why I was asking here. To see if anyone has done it successfully. So far, the answer is no.
Crusher
And btw, I haven't see any videos on taking this part off. All the ones online are off a different shroud. So far I haven't found a single video that talks about this shroud. That is why I was asking here. To see if anyone has done it successfully. So far, the answer is no.
Crusher
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Hello crusher. On my 177 wildcat there was no lock tight agent on the shroud or stripper at the end of the barrel. Found this out when the part you are talking about ( I assume ) came off with my LDC. The shroud then easily screwed off the back adapter. If it does have lock tight you will need to heat it enough to soften to unscrew, but the trick is to heat the outer part so it expands before the inner part. After everything is apart I use a thin layer of anti-seize and don't over tighten when reassembling. Good luck. sylvan
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