So just as the title says, how often, what products do you use, and what types/brands of oils/grease do you use when re-assembling the., and where do you use these different oils/grease. Thanks always
Tuning Cleaning of your rifles
- Thread starter blacksmith304
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The answers will vary between people, frequency of use, preference, make, model, etc. there are many variables to such a broad question. Take your pick https://www.airgunnation.com/find/
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Nothing goes through these things except air. With the exception of barrel cleaning when accuracy falls off, they just don't need much routine maintenance. As for lube, if it's metal on metal, any good lube designed for it. Stay away from silicone for such applications, it's not a metal lube. The only thing in the bore is lead, so you don't need traditional firearm bore solvents. Ballistol is popular, and it works well. WD-40 works too, as a cleaner, not a lube!
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I keep a micro fiber with Mac1 secret sauce, single weight non detergent oil. After shooting I wipe them down. Twenty five plus years later and every still looks good.
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I've used Ballistol, like many here, for the last few years. It's a great all around cleaner & lube & can be used on all surfaces including wood stocks. Only thing I'm not crazy about is the smell. Not horrendous but not pleasant to me either. I bought a larger spray can (14 oz.) to keep at home & a small "travel size" (4 oz.) for in the field should the need arise. Still plenty in both & I bought them about 4 yrs ago!
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i use about 4 .. a 30w silicon oil goes on every internal surface related to air including swabbing the barrel out occasionally, and then dry patch, i use no cleaners on a pcp barrel, they need to be 'leaded in' to work right unless theyre polished imo, just need a dry patch to get trash and excess out, only thing that needs to be squeaky clean is the crown so check no lead buildup there now and again ... i use a lithium grease very sparingly on pivot points and bolt friction surfaces, not the probe ... ive been liking a dry powder lube with teflon on the hammer and spring .. and i wipe all external metal surfaces down with air venturi metalophilic oil, after it 'dries' i'll go over it with silicon oil occasionally, a good initial treatment with the av oil seems to do the trick .. by far though the silicon oil is used the most, it goes on everything more or less except the stock and if you use a dry lube on the hammer youll want that area dry ... where to get ... google lol ..
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Regardless of what some of the marketing states, silicone is not a metal lube. Not only are its lubricating qualities wrong, if used in a high heat or pressure connection, it can cause seizing. My guess, its use in air rifles originated from the use of O rings, and the need some folks feel to lubricate them.
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Gun grease in a syringe for cocking blocks, MP5 for cocking linkages, FP10 for outside steels along with final barrel lube coat after a polish and FP10 also for pellet lube.
Barrel cleaning uses a mix of brake cleaner, Goo-Gone, acetone, JB bore brite, and Metal polish. All of these used in a series of steps, that takes me an hour to do. Very rare do I use a pull through; only as a quick clean while extensively shooting targets over a chrono or when I’m out in the field.
Silicone grease/oil on o rings and regulator assemblies only.
Moly paste on trigger innards along with magazine index levers. Basically, any steel on steel movement against each other inside compartments get moly.
Moly or graphite type powder for hammers, hammer weights, hammer springs used only in areas far enough from wet lubes as moly type powders can gum up if moisture is added.
Vibra tite fastener lock on grub screws M4 and smaller, lock tite medium on fasteners and threaded items that need to stay put, and nickel anti seize on fasteners that require periodic removal for service to the gun.
Fasteners that use the locktite typically get switched out to Torx drive heads.
Like another poster said, you’ll get all kinds of different methods and ingredients that folks like to use. It’s whatever they tried and worked for them that they’ve stuck with over the years.
Barrel cleaning uses a mix of brake cleaner, Goo-Gone, acetone, JB bore brite, and Metal polish. All of these used in a series of steps, that takes me an hour to do. Very rare do I use a pull through; only as a quick clean while extensively shooting targets over a chrono or when I’m out in the field.
Silicone grease/oil on o rings and regulator assemblies only.
Moly paste on trigger innards along with magazine index levers. Basically, any steel on steel movement against each other inside compartments get moly.
Moly or graphite type powder for hammers, hammer weights, hammer springs used only in areas far enough from wet lubes as moly type powders can gum up if moisture is added.
Vibra tite fastener lock on grub screws M4 and smaller, lock tite medium on fasteners and threaded items that need to stay put, and nickel anti seize on fasteners that require periodic removal for service to the gun.
Fasteners that use the locktite typically get switched out to Torx drive heads.
Like another poster said, you’ll get all kinds of different methods and ingredients that folks like to use. It’s whatever they tried and worked for them that they’ve stuck with over the years.
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