cleaners, lubricants, and protectants...

Gun cleaners, lubricants and protectants. Each product has its purpose and place. Depending upon the cold or heat exposure, humidity levels, dirt and grime exposure, cycling, use, and even extreme duty, the proper application of protectant is necessary and applied in the proper area.

Here's a good educational Farm Project video, where several brands of product are tested in various ways, and show the benificial properties of each in various extreme conditions.

 
@Airgun-hobbyist Thanks for posting this. Looks like I may wanna take a look at Break Free CLP and Clenzoil if I’m looking for another CLP. The Hoppe’s Kit has worked well for me though.
This video reinforces my desire to keep the correct lube on the internals of the Rattler, GK1, and other moving parts up here in the sub-freezing weather region. This factory applied grease is not the lube for smooth and consistent operation. (Before and after cleaning. )

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This video reinforces my desire to keep the correct lube on the internals of the Rattler, GK1, and other moving parts up here in the sub-freezing weather region. This factory applied grease is not the lube for smooth and consistent operation. (Before and after cleaning. )

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@Airgun-hobbyist Now I see the difference and importance this. It’s about time I address the issue as well. Which grease did you use when cleaned and regreased your Rattler?
 
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@Airgun-hobbyist Now I see the difference and importance this. It’s about time I address the issue as well. Which grease did you use when cleaned and regreased your Rattler?
I used a mixture of gun oil and Hexagonal Boron Nitride hBN Powder (available on Amazon) on the dragging and moving parts like the sear and pin bores. Because the video shows that even some of the light gun oils would thicken and or freeze, I am going to throw the application bottle in the freezer to see if it survives. If it does not, I'll make a new mixture with something that doesn't freeze.
 
I used a mixture of gun oil and Hexagonal Boron Nitride hBN Powder (available on Amazon) on the dragging and moving parts like the sear and pin bores. Because the video shows that even some of the light gun oils would thicken and or freeze, I am going to throw the application bottle in the freezer to see if it survives. If it does not, I'll make a new mixture with something that doesn't freeze.
Plus one on that. Been doing it for years. I even tried coating bullets for my centerfire rifles using HBN powder. The .223 cal bullets came out so slick that they were hard to pick up.. I have mixed it in some light grease for use on things like handgun slide. or camming surfaces like on an AR 15 or M1 Garand bolt.
 
Interesting on the "hard to pick up" bullets. I use moly-coated bullets in my reloads and they are hard to pick up as well. They feel like water in my palm, 'flow' easily.

mike
I tried moly coating once. My hands got black from handling the bullets. HBN is a white powder, and is used in some cosmetic products, like lipstick, lotions, creams and shampoos to impart a feeling of slickness. It is non toxic,
 
I been using CLP for a few years now on all my hardware including Knives. A little goes a long way. I wet patch the barrel fallowed by a few dry patches and use a little silicone lube with a Qtip on the breech Oring to complete my cleaning. When I wash pellets I lube them with Napier Power Pellet lube.
 
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I tried moly coating once. My hands got black from handling the bullets. HBN is a white powder, and is used in some cosmetic products, like lipstick, lotions, creams and shampoos to impart a feeling of slickness. It is non toxic,
Yeah, I hear ya about getting black all over.
Where I purchase my bullets, they are already mollied. The maker has a special process that the moly doesn't come off, I may get a VERY slight bit on my 'bullet' feeder hand, but really, it's not much at all.
No clue how they are manufactured, but they are very accurate and SLICK!!!

mike
 
I use HBN for coating my pellets. It's very slick
It took me a bit to get the process right.
At first, I just added some powder in a zip lock and shook the pellets.
the coating was irregular and splotchy ..looked like it was frosted.
Then i added some plastic airsoft bb's to the bag ..that worked out a little better.
Then i got a cheap rock tumbler and stuck it in there for a few minutes ...perfect!
When the pellets come out of the tumbler, they do not look that different from when they go in....but try t pick them up;)
To separate the pellets from the bb's, just use a wire mesh that will allow the bb's to pass through while retaining the pellets.
It can get messy if you are not careful ..that powder can go everywhere ..but not toxic

For grease, I get mine from a member of Team Centercut @Bigragu ..he makes a concoction that's better than anything i've tried in the past
Affectionately know as "Augie Lube"
 
Frog Lube properly applied ..
Clean and degrease surface , apply Frog Lube, Then heat it until Frog Lube melts, ( warm to the touch ) then wipe of excess...
So many do not know these steps !!!!
It seems that the Frog Lube is one of the best finish protectors out there, properly applied. I don't get it into the moving parts because it freezes.