Chokes and velocity

Could you post a picture of the actual hammer you're using when you have the time?
Here you are sir.

1000006725.jpg
1000006726.jpg
1000006727.jpg
 
  • Like
Reactions: heavy-impact
I don't know what diameter of a hammer you are working with, but I use tungsten rods as plugs to add weight to the factory hammer designs. I drill the hammer accordingly and expoxy them in place, peening the steel if necessary to prevent backing out. There's similar tungsten rods of smaller diameter available on eBay. Pure tungsten rods for Tig welding work good too, but are limited on the diameter.

 
I don't know what diameter of a hammer you are working with, but I use tungsten rods as plugs to add weight to the factory hammer designs. I drill the hammer accordingly and expoxy them in place, peening the steel if necessary to prevent backing out. There's similar tungsten rods of smaller diameter available on eBay. Pure tungsten rods for Tig welding work good too, but are limited on the diameter.

I was checking some out on ebay the other day to maybe drop in the center of my hammer. Tungsten is hard to work though with limited tooling.
 
I was checking some out on ebay the other day to maybe drop in the center of my hammer. Tungsten is hard to work though with limited tooling.
It's really hard to work with anything other than a grinder for me too. That's why I just drill the steel hammer weight out and press them in place of the removed steel. The added tungsten weight over steel is significantly increased. The last hammer I did with a tig welding rod still has 3/4" of rod hanging out of the back for weight, and works great.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dr. Kralenstein
It's really hard to work with anything other than a grinder for me too. That's why I just drill the steel hammer weight out and press them in place of the removed steel. The added tungsten weight over steel is significantly increased. The last hammer I did with a tig welding rod still has 3/4" of rod hanging out of the back for weight, and works great.
I'm looking at this hammer, and thinking of just drilling the whole striker section out and filling with a tungsten rod all the way through, and epoxy or set screw it in. Would be about 35mm long x 10mm diameter.
 
After playing around with the action in pieces, I found out the hammer will go through the hole action. The cocking slot on top needs to be notched back a little bit to allot the hammer to come forward more. The pin between the probe and hammer stops the hammer, not the breech block lip like I thought.

Turns out, no lip! Who knew?

Getting ready to shave down the valve end and notch that slot. Should give me 1/16 inch extra travel, which is roughly 25% more opening. That translates to more dwell time, and a little more hammer stroke for momentum.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Stubbers
That slot on the top of the hammer causes the cocking arm to pop open on the Kral Empire XS when you start to give the gun the beans looking for power. I lengthened the poppet pin and the problem went away. Hopefully a bunch of little things that have been discovered in this topic will add up and get you over 800fps. I would drill the hammer from the spring side but not all the way through. Leave enough material on the face of the hammer for striking the valve. Depending on the diameter rod you get, it can act as your new spring guide if you leave 10mm sticking out. Or you can have it cut it just under flush and peen it like the other guy said. Then use what I sent you for extra weight and a nice surface for your spring to compress on.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Dr. Kralenstein
Nice! I'd still try a slug or two of tungsten weight in it.
I definitely will. I'd like to add weight and reduce cocking effort.

I'm having a blast of air coming from somewhere on the action. I think it's blowing by the valve o-rings that seal the breech block. I'll investigate tomorrow, but the valve slides in super easy, which makes me think the rings are about done.