Can the lack of air chamber/ piston lube lead to accuracy problems in springers? I have air Ruger Air Hawk .177, that one minute is dead-on, hole on hole at 20 yards, the next minute 3 inches off. She hits really hard, not supersonic, but will easily penetrate 1/2 wood with wadcutter pellets at 20 yards.Have changed scopes, tightened all screws with loctitie and added a de-resonator . Using Meisterkugln and H&N Barracuda Hunter extreme pellets. Barrel is clean, what's up? Please advise...thanks.
Chamber Lube
- Thread starter dark1961
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I'm going threw the same thing with my Diana Stealth. I'm having issues when the temperature rises. I live in Phoenix and the temp can go from 60deg to over a 100 in the same day. took it back to AOA. where I bought. Got it home (106 deg) can't hit poop at 15 yds. after changing scope still same problem. found out my suppressor was cracking. Shooting better but still has issues. Once I get past 30 yrds. won't group any more.
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Spring powered Airguns can be fickle things. You can buy two guns of the same make and model at the same time, and they can shoot completely differently. The same applies to tuning kits. For example I have two late model HW50s rifles. One shoots best with a Vortek kit fitted. The other hates the Vortek kit and shoots best using the standard spring etc, but with one bearing (some call them power rings) placed at either end of the spring.
I you were to chat to some experts they will say the chamber lube is a definite no no. But other people my tell you to give it a go.
In my opinion the only way to solve your problem is to try and experiment with different set ups e.g springs etc, if you are able.
Temperature does affect springers, but often it is the cold that thickens the spring lube that is the issue.
Probably not much help, sorry, but that’s the way it is with many springers I’m afraid.
I you were to chat to some experts they will say the chamber lube is a definite no no. But other people my tell you to give it a go.
In my opinion the only way to solve your problem is to try and experiment with different set ups e.g springs etc, if you are able.
Temperature does affect springers, but often it is the cold that thickens the spring lube that is the issue.
Probably not much help, sorry, but that’s the way it is with many springers I’m afraid.
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Chamber lube causes my guns to diesel like a mofo. Only used it once and decided never to do it again.
Instead I tear them down once a year, clean and sparingly apply fresh moly.
Instead I tear them down once a year, clean and sparingly apply fresh moly.
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I would suggest taking the gun apart, completely degrease the air chamber, piston, spring and piston seal. Closely inspect the piston seal for damage. Lube with krytox (cannot cause dieseling), reassemble and go from there. Never put chamber oil in the gun as it will cause dieseling. Minor dieseling is normal in most springers that use conventional petroleum based lubricants but dieseling can never be consistent. Use krytox and you remove that problem from the equation all together. I do this with my Diana 34. Your gun is basically a copy of the D34 with a different trigger unit.
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As these guys have said chamber lube is a big no no...
I've had several Diana's through the years that had damaged piston seals from the factory and another often overlooked problem with them is the rather cheesy breach seal set up on them.
The way the breach is angled and the main reason for barrel droop on a lot of Diana's
Often they need to be shimmed for a proper seal. I've heard of some using dental floss but I use steel shim material and make my own. The seal should sit at 8 to 10 thousands above the the breach.
It has done wonders for me in the past especially on the 34s.
Just my 2 cents ...
James from Michigan,
I've had several Diana's through the years that had damaged piston seals from the factory and another often overlooked problem with them is the rather cheesy breach seal set up on them.
The way the breach is angled and the main reason for barrel droop on a lot of Diana's
Often they need to be shimmed for a proper seal. I've heard of some using dental floss but I use steel shim material and make my own. The seal should sit at 8 to 10 thousands above the the breach.
It has done wonders for me in the past especially on the 34s.
Just my 2 cents ...
James from Michigan,
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So which variation of Krytox are you using as there are multiple types of Krytox for different industries and some of those types have different versions or formulations depending on the application.
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I have a 2015 model 34 and never had an issue with the breech seal. It is not shimmed and currently sits at .009 above the breech surface. Don't see how the angle of the breech has anything to do with barrel droop. The angle of the breech end of the barrel is the same as the angle of the end of the compression chamber.
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Not all are that way and most are good to go. But I have seen several through the years that didn't match up perfectly and the top of the breach block would hit not allowing it to seal completely. And I've seen a couple that had to deep of a groove for the seal...
Not knocking Diana but every mass produced product will have problems here and there. Glad you have a good one they are a great rifle!
James from Michigan ,
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Washed and lubed my pellets, cleaned barrel, everything seems right with the world now...thanks!
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