Can somebody please explain how this valve assembly from AceCare is supposed to work?

[Begle1]

I bought an AceCare tank with this valve assembly on top and I'm trying to make sense of it. (It didn't come with any documentation.)

All of the ports (please see notated image below) are open to each other all the time; they're all connected internally. (The red plastic around the gauge isn't some sort of valve, is it? It definitely doesn't want to rotate, so I've concluded it must be there just to protect the gauge while mimicking the actual valve on top of the tank for aesthetics.)
"Port A" obviously threads into the bottle.
"Port B" was the only empty port out of the box so I assumed that's where they intended the hose to connect to.
"Port C" is obviously the bleed valve. When I unthread the valve it allows air to come out of a hole drilled in the side of the assembly.
Now, what is "Port D" supposed to be? It came with a hollow holy fitting threaded into it. It didn't come with anything to keep air from running out of the holes, so it's just a big fat leak. Is it some sort of safety thing? Is there supposed to be a rupture disk in there? Am I supposed to just plug it or connect a second hose? Is something wrong or am I terminally confused?

Also, where can I get the little white Teflon-ish gaskets like what is in Port B?


Thanks;
-Begle1

 

[oregondude]

I bought an AceCare tank with this valve assembly on top and I'm trying to make sense of it. (It didn't come with any documentation.)

View attachment 375542

All of the ports (please see notated image below) are open to each other all the time; they're all connected internally. (The red plastic around the gauge isn't some sort of valve, is it? It definitely doesn't want to rotate, so I've concluded it must be there just to protect the gauge while mimicking the actual valve on top of the tank for aesthetics.)
"Port A" obviously threads into the bottle.
"Port B" was the only empty port out of the box so I assumed that's where they intended the hose to connect to.
"Port C" is obviously the bleed valve. When I unthread the valve it allows air to come out of a hole drilled in the side of the assembly.
Now, what is "Port D" supposed to be? It came with a hollow holy fitting threaded into it. It didn't come with anything to keep air from running out of the holes, so it's just a big fat leak. Is it some sort of safety thing? Is there supposed to be a rupture disk in there? Am I supposed to just plug it or connect a second hose? Is something wrong or am I terminally confused?

View attachment 375539
Also, where can I get the little white Teflon-ish gaskets like what is in Port B?


Thanks;
-Begle1

View attachment 375540

View attachment 375541

From their website

 

[Geezerhood]

Now, what is "Port D" supposed to be? It came with a hollow holy fitting threaded into it. It didn't come with anything to keep air from running out of the holes, so it's just a big fat leak. Is it some sort of safety thing? Is there supposed to be a rupture disk in there? Am I supposed to just plug it or connect a second hose? Is something wrong or am I terminally confused?

View attachment 375539
Also, where can I get the little white Teflon-ish gaskets like what is in Port B?


Thanks;
-Begle1

Port D is the burst disk. There should be a metal disk in there, or if it wasn't installed, they should have sent you some disks. The small, round disk of metal in it is covering a hole that is open to the pressurized side of the line, set to "burst" at a pressure that is below the max engineered pressure of the tank. Usually somewhere below the hydro testing pressure but above the working pressure. This is to prevent an over pressure failure of the body of the tank or the valve assembly.

You can find the PTFE / Teflon washers on Aliexpress, Amazon and Ebay. Just measure the one you have to see what the size is or check with acecare. If I can find a link where bought a bag of a dozen fairly cheaply I will post it.

 

[Gerry52]

A) goes into your tank's female valve threads. B) is for fill whip. C) is bleed valve. D) Is for burst disc. I have a bunch of the white delrin discs AND burst discs.
Be happy to send you some. PM me. Don't overtighten on the white discs! If someone neglected to install a burst disc into hole D, your air will escape through there.

 

[Geezerhood]

Rather than trying to get a metal disk to work with that existing fitting, you might consider a pre-assembled burst disk like in the 2nd photo. They are about $4. The burst disk on the 2nd one is sandwiched inside under the brass fitting. The plastic (nylon?) washer on your valve assembly may not give enough support for a burst disk. Usually the disk is sandwiched between two metal surfaces so it can sheer off the center under pressure. A plastic backing would give under pressure and might change the burst pressure.

Be sure to match the diameter and the threads of the opening if you buy another assembly.

Amazon.com

HPA Burst Disk 5k - 2 pack (Compressed Air Paintball ) | eBay

Note: These burst disks are compatible with all paintball HPA tank regulators that use standard 3/8" threaded burst disks. They are not compatible with Guerilla Air Myth regulators. Our burst disks are no exception.

www.ebay.com

 

[Begle1]

Thanks everybody, I got it figured out for now.