Sheridan C series in brass finish

[Lobi]

Someone removed all the black finish? Didn't Sheridan make some in brass finish? Serial number on left side of tube is 321848. Does that give up a manufacture date? I'm thinking it would look handsome with a bright polish. What to use? A little wipe with never dull didn't do much. I think shiny brass would look cool next to my silver streak. Thoughts?

 

[Lobi]

Doing a little research after posting, instead of before like I should have, says this could be 1974-1975. Sounds like this would be just pre Benjamin Era. The little weaver is cool and sitting on a Sheridan brand scope mount. Were guns ever shipped from the factory with this mount or was it only aftermarket sold by Sheridan?

 

[6gun]

Someone removed all the black finish? Didn't Sheridan make some in brass finish? Serial number on left side of tube is 321848. Does that give up a manufacture date? I'm thinking it would look handsome with a bright polish. What to use? A little wipe with never dull didn't do much. I think shiny brass would look cool next to my silver streak. Thoughts?
View attachment 587976View attachment 587977

Depending on what tools you have or access to supplies. Maybe try brasso and some clean rags first. If that doesn't work I'd take the oxide off with very light pressure using 0000 (4 ought) steel wool and maybe some mag wheel polish and then brasso. Wear rubber gloves so your hand oils don't leave finger prints. After it's polished, id clean it with a little acetone and wax it really well so it doesn't need constant maintenance. It will require regular maintenance. This is why I never stripped my childhood 392.

If you have some tools a cotton buffing wheel or ball will speed this up by a lot, it's not awful work tho.

 

[Lobi]

Yes 6gun, Brasso is working like magic. Pic doesn't do it justice. Silver Streak looks grey. I wonder if the brasso will hurt the nickle on it.
I'll likely pull the brass colored one apart to get in the nooks n crannies like around the roll pin holes etc. I want to refinish the walnut anyway. Was the grey end cap under the muzzle ever painted or always left unfinished?

 

[jccams]

Like this.

 

[Lobi]

Like this.View attachment 588022

Yes! Very nice

 

[markhooper]

I had a black parco survival 22 with the built in foot pump.. I got it scratched up and I saw it was brass underneath the flat black finish, so I disassemble it enough to get all the black off with fine steel wool.. I think I might have used a cloth buffing wheel for a very good bright polish and then I gave it two coats of acrylic clear coat.. was and stayed absolutely gorgeous.. it's on that got away though one hard winter with little work available, ended up selling most of my exotic air guns but it kept my kids in clothes and food..

I'd definitely recommend two coats of acrylic clear coat and then there's basically no maintenance.. get a good quality one and once and done..no more repolishing and I'd likely polish the nickel one and do the same.. then it's always bright nickel.

Mark

 

[Lobi]

How is the rear sight attached? Just tight press fit? Can it be removed to clean under and close to it?

 

[Lobi]

I had a black parco survival 22 with the built in foot pump.. I got it scratched up and I saw it was brass underneath the flat black finish, so I disassemble it enough to get all the black off with fine steel wool.. I think I might have used a cloth buffing wheel for a very good bright polish and then I gave it two coats of acrylic clear coat.. was and stayed absolutely gorgeous.. it's on that got away though one hard winter with little work available, ended up selling most of my exotic air guns but it kept my kids in clothes and food..

I'd definitely recommend two coats of acrylic clear coat and then there's basically no maintenance.. get a good quality one and once and done..no more repolishing and I'd likely polish the nickel one and do the same.. then it's always bright nickel.

Mark

What is this parco survival 22? Never heard of it but love old and interesting rimfire guns

 

[.20calguy]

Didn't Sheridan make some in brass finish? Serial number on left side of tube is 321848.

How did you arrive at 74-75?
321848 is 1980.



Your finish was likely polished off down to the brass like I did mine many years ago.

The rear sight has two wedges under it. It can be removed by carefully tapping it off the wedges.

The Sheridan Intermount scope base, is from Sheridan.. I got mine by mailing a check to Sheridan and it came to me in the mail, probably 1973 or so.

I have polished my brass to a beautiful finish a couple times, but it doesn't last long. It would need a clearcoat to lock in the luster.

Nice rifles you've got there!

 

[Treefrog]

How is the rear sight attached? Just tight press fit? Can it be removed to clean under and close to it?
View attachment 588029

The rear sight is held on by the tension applied to the wedges lodged between the tube and barrel. You can pull the scope mount off and then drive it to the rear. That will push it backward off of the wedges. I put electrical tape on the barrel to prevent scratches and use gentle taps with a hammer on a wood block to preserve the sight's finish.

Those scope mounts are known to cause the barrels to separate from the tubes on the Sheridans. The sight mounting wedges add to that stress.

Cheers,

J~

 

[Revoman]

I tried selling one of those little "Made in USA", Weaver scope here on AGN a few months ago for a mere $35. NOONE wanted it at all.
So, I gave it away in the same Classified ad a week later.
It was in decent shape too and had the scope rings to boot!

mike

 

[6gun]

Yes 6gun, Brasso is working like magic. Pic doesn't do it justice. Silver Streak looks grey. I wonder if the brasso will hurt the nickle on it.
I'll likely pull the brass colored one apart to get in the nooks n crannies like around the roll pin holes etc. I want to refinish the walnut anyway. Was the grey end cap under the muzzle ever painted or always left unfinished?
View attachment 588019

OK, it's not at airgun but I just want to reassure you that brasso won't hurt it. I plated this coleman latern fount with nickel battery tabs and vinegar (it's not a thick plating) and buffed it out with brasso and a cotton ball on a die grinder at some scary rpms. I didn't burn thru any of it. I think you'll be ok.

 

[6gun]

Now that I think of it, if you were so inclined, it's possible to plate the whole gun in nickel with some hilariously rudimentary stuff and a lot of time..... And rubber gloves.

 

[6gun]

I had a black parco survival 22 with the built in foot pump.. I got it scratched up and I saw it was brass underneath the flat black finish, so I disassemble it enough to get all the black off with fine steel wool.. I think I might have used a cloth buffing wheel for a very good bright polish and then I gave it two coats of acrylic clear coat.. was and stayed absolutely gorgeous.. it's on that got away though one hard winter with little work available, ended up selling most of my exotic air guns but it kept my kids in clothes and food..

I'd definitely recommend two coats of acrylic clear coat and then there's basically no maintenance.. get a good quality one and once and done..no more repolishing and I'd likely polish the nickel one and do the same.. then it's always bright nickel.

Mark

I will agree with the clear coat idea but suggest an alkalyd. Only because I can speak to it's durability. If you have an air brush it gets even better because you won't worry about over building the finish on such a cool gun. You have tapped into a gun that is a core memory for me and keeping antique machines alive.... All the dopamine.

I'm willing to bet you're well aware, cleaning the bore on these is a sensitive operation imho. Nothing more than nylon brushes for grime and patches with minimal brasso work pretty good too for a refurb cleaning. After that it's patches and clp or felt pellets and clp for me. (I have my own feelings of seasoning bores with clp from powder burners and my 392)

 

[KWK]

I tried selling one of those little "Made in USA", Weaver scope here on AGN a few months ago for a mere $35. NOONE wanted it at all.
So, I gave it away in the same Classified ad a week later.
It was in decent shape too and had the scope rings to boot!

mike

The Weaver J series aren't too bad. A nice one is worth something. I bought a clean J4 to mount on a BSA prewar. I can drill and tap a spare trigger block for a dovetail rail. Not always easy to find Weaver 3/4 x 3/8 bullseye knob rings. Don't have those yet.
K series are always desirable. And Marksman series.

 

[KWK]

Here's a link to a discussion about clear coating brass. I've made a cool steam engine or two

clear-coat for brass?

I've made some bullet shaped brass salt and pepper shakers for Christmas gifts, ( yes, I stole Eric's idea), and need to keep the brass shiny. Is there such a thing as food grade clear coat? What do most people use? have fun i_r_machinist

www.practicalmachinist.com

 

[6gun]

Here's a link to a discussion about clear coating brass. I've made a cool steam engine or two

clear-coat for brass?

I've made some bullet shaped brass salt and pepper shakers for Christmas gifts, ( yes, I stole Eric's idea), and need to keep the brass shiny. Is there such a thing as food grade clear coat? What do most people use? have fun i_r_machinist

www.practicalmachinist.com

View attachment 588103View attachment 588104

I have to get acquainted with the general off topic discussion sub forum here. I have so many questions. Live steam is something my grandfather did and I never got to see it or work on it with him. My dad was a fine furniture building hobbyist, out of nowhere I picked up metal pretty well and I love your steam car the fun tie-in id
S that much of the knowledge and principles for off topic stuff are applicable to air guns.

 

[markhooper]

What is this parco survival 22? Never heard of it but love old and interesting rimfire guns

it's a Phillipines 22 caliber bolt action air rifle.. has a pump tube similar to the Sheridan with a brass soldered on barrel.. but at the end of the tube is a fold down wire stirrup and you stand on it and hold the rifle by the butt and pump it up and down vertically.. 100 pumps and it holds air pretty much indefinitely.. good for around 20 full power shots and then top it off where ever you are.. and it shoots hard..way more powerful than a rws Diana 48 in 22.. soft pine will shoot through a 2x4..
so parco is the name for the Phillipines only model.. and Air Rifle Specialist in Elmira New York used to import them, and a 20 gauge/51 caliber CO2 shot gun they were called Farco for the USA model.. the shotgun had a bulk fill tank like a little bit bigger than the 88 CO2 cartridges and I had a adapter to refill it with a 20 lb soda tank.. only difference between that and a CO2 tank is the soda tank has a dip tube so you get liquid CO2..
I know that he's long passed away, this was like 35 years ago..
I also got a ars6 from him, it was a revolver type rifle PCP that you filled with a scuba tank.. it's still available from evinex as a evanix ar6.. but with a foster fill instead of the awful scuba tank hook up..
I really didn't like having to use a scuba tank because I didn't have a dive license and no desire to get one, so I had to find friends who would take it in to fill..
back in those days I had a whebly tempest, Beeman P1, rws Diana 48 and rws Diana 34..
another unusual gun I had was a brocock 522.. it was a snub nose 5 shot revolver, PCP hand pump refillable cartridges for each chamber, they look like a 38 special.. had trouble with o rings and leaking down so I went to industrial supply and bought their best and toughest o rings and rebuilt the cartridges and they would hold air for months and of course if you have left it set you could always put it in the hand pump and top it off..
good old times and great memories..
thank you all for this thread.. brought back good memories..
Mark

 

[.20calguy]

I will agree with the clear coat idea but suggest an alkalyd. Only because I can speak to it's durability. If you have an air brush it gets even better because you won't worry about over building the finish on such a cool gun. You have tapped into a gun that is a core memory for me and keeping antique machines alive.... All the dopamine.

I'm willing to bet you're well aware, cleaning the bore on these is a sensitive operation imho. Nothing more than nylon brushes for grime and patches with minimal brasso work pretty good too for a refurb cleaning. After that it's patches and clp or felt pellets and clp for me. (I have my own feelings of seasoning bores with clp from powder burners and my 392)

To find the proper method you may consult a brass horn finisher. Those instruments always shine.