Buggering a new gun

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Fischer

Fischer

Member
Mar 7, 2021
384
31
IL, United States
I did it with my HW50S .20 a few days ago while tightening the front stock screw. There are "gashes" instead of clear lines now on that screw.

The gash mark isn't harmfully sharp in any way and actually tells you the position of the screwdriver slot by touch; nevertheless it is a bit unsightly compared to every screw and other piece of my "perfect" rifle. So I took a few days off with it after shooting it twice after the gash or gaff (always on target, always shooting straight) I felt I had ruined it. I thought of buying a brand new screw but then I realized I'd probably bugger it up. Endless unreasonable damage I find myself doing to all things that matter around me.



Inside I knew I marred the gun the way only I could do and that replacing the screw would work. But why? Am I a perfectionist? I don't think so.

For now I am shooting my HW80 .25 which to this day has no mark or scrape or gaff or chaff mark. I had to do this to realized this rifle never fails and has always escaped my own harm to it!

Well if I'm impressed with a .20 pellet going around 601 fps at muzzle shooting the HW80 .25 at 649 fps MV is a huge difference that a .22 cannot in any way do. Even at 35 yards and yards beyond.


 
I used to be known for doing that to screws.I would work on my guns when I was really young and Sometimes I would booger them up. At the time I didn’t have quality screwdrivers so I did have a bunch of them though and filed them to fit various screws on my guns. But what I used to do if I buggered one up was take the screw out and stand it straight up on a hard surface and lightly tap the raised area with a ball peen hammer. Then I would sand it smooth and use cold bluing to darken it back up. I just bought a vintage mark one pistol that had a couple screws that were messed up and now after doing what I just mentioned, you can Hardly tell.
 
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I have buggered up some screws myself. I need a good gun smith screw driver set myself. I bought a Winchester branded set but it’s junk. The screws can be cleaned up or they can be replaced. I found some screws for my hw50 here: https://dlairgun.com/collections/hw50

Shipping is steep to the states but they have a bunch of pellets or other spare parts to order that can make the shipping costs more palatable. 
 
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Simply replace them with nice hex head screws. Buggering eliminated forever. If you put in a cup ....even better.
Click to expand...

This^^^. It's what I did on my HW95 .22 and with screw cups from Mac1. Sadly, he hasn't offered them in over a year and the ones at AoA aren't quite the same. I still have a set of the Mac1 screw cups with hex head screws that need to be put in my Beeman R9 .20.
 
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Yeah, I had a really big day today suddenly being thrown into air rifle Varmint Hunting mode and the .20 HW50 was not even considered in the picture--which took my mind away from this little rifle and what to do with the screw. Hex screws throughout I decided. I wish someone would sue HW for their POOR slotted screws on ALL their rifles.

My Theoben Eliminator .25 has Hex screws ONLY. I guess that's ONE rifle company that knows what it is doing. The other thing is Diana using Phillips Screws on their D54!

Anyone with a rifle they want to keep should replace all screws with hex screws. That is now my belief. My HW50 .20 will rise again with ALL hex screws and I will send the slotted malfunctions back to HW to make them get the point! I own a LOT of HWs!
 
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The original HW stock screws on my HW95 were really cheap.

I bought the Arizona Airgun cup and screw kit which comes with Allen socket head cap screws. But the cups are a bit tall, so you need to turn them down on a lathe, or drill the stock holes a little deeper. I don't have a lathe, and I didn't want to drill the stock, so I finally replaced them with new stainless steel Phillips screws (metric m5 - 0.8). I got them at our local Home Depot. I have repeatedly tightened them, using a sharp Phillips driver, and there is still no burr. This is probably because the heads are better made, and the steel is harder. The heads are larger than original and fit the stock holes better. Yeah, I know, Phillips screw heads tend to look cheap. But these look really nice.


 
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I did the same thing to one of my guns and it really bummed me out. Reading this form the other day instigated me to go get some screws this morning and I put them on my brand new R9, I can thank you guys for that one too. I picked up the screws that go in the stock for $.85 each. In the HW’s it’s an M5 x 16. So far as this size has fit into every stock that I tried. Night and day difference. 
49FCE7D2-0D0D-4289-B563-ED6971C79C3E.1616730450.jpeg
 Grabed several other sizes, you never know. Can definitely see this being an advantage. Crow 
 
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Well I left it all alone and shot it yesterday again to see it was dead on target and felt it was time to call AOA and get ANOTHER one because these (this) is the best air rifle I ever owned for all practical reasons an air rifle is used!

So I was on the phone after a waiting list of 4 to talk to Chris and tell him I wanted to be sure when he had ONE left it's mine!

Why a duplicate? Because it's THAT good and I WANT another!

But my wife intervened on the phone and told Chris I wasn't having any business with him and that sort of cut the conversation with Chris into the "conference call" mode and I had to be on my guard to say to Chris and my wife I like the HW50S .20 in the new stock and he could depend upon me to get the last one if it ever came to it!

Anyway, I believe in the HW98 for everything but the HW50S in .20 is the most exciting air rifle for me these latest days in the midst of "power" and "velocity" and such for "accuracy".

On the last count, accuracy in field conditions, the HW50S .20 is the end all.
 
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