Brocock Concept Lite XR (.177)

The next gun going through the review process: Brocock Concept Lite XR in .177.

I’d like to thank Airguns of Arizona for supplying the guns and letting me hang onto them long enough to do thorough reviews. In previous reviews, AOA has primarily supplied the gun, with the exception of some pellets and slugs for the Red Wolf review. This one is going to be different.

The entire AOA package:

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You’re looking at a Concept Lite XR in .177, with a 0DB moderator, and a MTC Optics Viper Pro Tactical 5-30x50.

Current price on the AOA website is $1299.99 for the gun without the pictured accessories.

This complete AOA-supplied, package-deal experience will be covered in-depth in the coming weeks but here are some of my first impressions and what I know about the gun so far.

(As mentioned in my previous reviews, AOA does not pay for my thoughts or time spent working with their guns. What you read here is my unfiltered opinion. There is no review or approval process before any of my comments are posted on the forums. Other than AOA supplying the guns, and the scope and moderator in this instance, these reviews are independent from any financially-inspired embellishments. What I think about a product is what you will read.)

Manual

The paperwork that came with this gun and scope are excellent. Nice thick paper with glossy, highly detailed images. Lots of good info though, and this review started with a thorough read of the manuals.

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My favorite images:

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(Gotta love schematics)

General

I’ve had the gun a week and have shot it a little with a 4x scope, initial chrono testing type stuff. Have not done any qualitative accuracy assessment yet though.

My impression when I first handled the gun was that it is small, light, compact, and very solidly built. Literally built like a brick, just a SOLID gun. It has a billet piece of aluminum making up the frame. Which is probably where the light but solid impression is coming from. The frame/chassis makes me think of those chassis only pickup truck options where the structural steel frame of the vehicle can be seen prior to placing an aftermarket flatbed or toolbox bed onto the truck. It also is pretty similar to the chassis that RAW came out with not too long ago. The Concept predates the RAW version. In keeping with the “black gun” AR aesthetic and theme, I guess the proper term for this billet chassis would be the lower receiver. When the size of the gun is taken into account, the billet lower receiver is substantial, making up a large percentage of the overall bulk of the gun (albeit diminutive “bulk”). Having the main component holding the gun together built from a solid piece of aluminum has got to help with rigidity, consistency, durability, longevity, etc.

(The trend of the airgun industry moving towards AR styled guns is somewhat controversial, and I’ve seen the arguments both ways. The opinion of the tacticool pervasion into airgunning seems quite polarized. Some hate it. Some love it. For myself, my yea or nay is about intended use and fringe benefits. I can appreciate a nice walnut stock, and really enjoy laminate stocks, but I’m mostly interested in performance, and just cuz a gun has a straightish 1911-type grip and is made from steel/aluminum doesn’t mean it won’t outshoot some classy eye-candy high grade walnut stocked gun with curves in all the right places. Some even call the AR style ugly, but beauty really is in the eye of the beholder. I personally own two airguns that fall into this “black gun” description. They are both very accurate and can be made to fit the shooter quite nicely. They are beautiful in their performance. It’s kinda like the Redwing boots I started wearing to work a few years ago. I have to do “business casual” for work, basically slacks and a button down, collared shirt. I’d been wearing dress shoes/loafers for a while, with pain in my feet. Grandfather was a carpenter standing on cement slabs all day and my dad said grandpa swore by Redwing boots with the white crepe soles. Bought a pair and love them, have had them resoled. They’re a little more rugged looking than the dress shoes, but offer a much improved performance level for what I’m most concerned with, foot pain. Same concept for me with these AR styled airguns, they may look a little rougher, but offer different benefits than being aesthetically pleasing. Then there’s the modular nature of this type of guns; butt stocks, front picatinny rails, and grips are all usually interchangeable if the owner desires something a little different. I’ve found that the AR styled guns can be made to fit better than they look like they should.)

Weight/size

The Concept Lite XR is advertised as weighing 6.5lbs and this particular scope weighs 30.65oz for a total weight of a little under 8.5lbs. I imagine with the moderator and the scope side wheel and lens covers, I’m in the 9lb area. This is a bigger scope than most would probably put on this little gun, but I plan on shooting it for field target and need the magnification. The package doesn’t feel heavy or cumbersome, even over-scoped.

Air tube

The air tube has a gloss finish, while the rest of the gun is matte. Fill pressure = 250 bar and air tube volume = 180cc (lots of shots for small tube, stay with me for the continued review and you'll see what I mean).

There is also some gummy residue on the face of the manometer that I need to get off with some alcohol. (Guessing that’s simply from the clear protective plastic most gauges come with). The gauge matches my fill station and has 10 bar increments so it’s easier to read than many dumbed-down gauges I’ve seen that lack sufficient graduations to know with certainty what the pressure is.

Butt stock

The butt stock is adjustable for length of pull. At its most compact, with the 0DB moderator in place, the overall length of the gun is 38.5inches. This particular moderator is 6.5inches long, so we’re talking about a gun that is only 32inches long without a moderator. Most non-bullpup guns are 38.5 or more inches BEFORE the moderator is added. With the buttstock at its longest LOP, the guns overall length is 41.75inches, including moderator. The LOP with the buttstock completely reduced is 13.25inches. With it fully extended, LOP measures 16.5inches (way too long for my 5’10” frame). I’m liking it with a 14in LOP and overall length of 39.25inches. Again, that sub 40inches is WITH moderator. Short little gun.

The butt stock adjustment feels solid too. I expected it to have some wiggle but it doesn’t. Neither does it feel cheap or possibly short-lived.

Breech

It has a funky riser breech. When first inspecting the gun I thought it came missing the other section of riser, behind the loading portion of the breech. We were actually digging through the packaging to find the rest of the riser when a friend pointed out on the manual cover that it’s supposed to be this way. I didn’t understand this feature until I mounted up the scope. For the correct eye relief, the scope needs to be forward of where I thought I was missing a sections of breech riser. It’s actually nice because it offers easier access to the pellet loading area. Would like to see picatinny rails for the scope mounting of a gun with this design too (it is dovetail). 

Here’s the riser

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Side lever cocking

The cocking effort is pretty small, surprisingly small actually. I’ve got a little Benjamin Discovery that I cut down for my son to shoot. It’s a bear to cock and I have to do it for him most of the time with that gun. So my first thought was that he’d be able to easily cock this Concept, and that he can.

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I actually bought a trigger gauge just a few days ago, and used it to measure cocking effort. 5 shot average cocking effort for the Concept, as measured by Lyman digital trigger gauge = 7lbs 7.2ounces.

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Was curious to see if that cocking effort was different for each power levels so repeated it with the other two. Same effort for all three levels. So it would appear that the power is reduced through a restriction in the transfer port instead of a reduction in hammer spring (makes sense considering where the power wheel is located). For comparison, my Taipan Veteran cocking effort requires 6lb, 9 ounces in its current 20fpe configuration. Nice, easy, smooth cocking with the side lever for the Concept.

Trigger

I was completely underwhelmed by the Concept trigger. It is two-stage but feels REALLY heavy to get it to break and doesn’t break that cleanly. This niggle was my main reason for buying the trigger pull gauge mentioned above. So, I first measured the trigger pulls on the three guns that I own that I shoot the most; 0lb 3.9oz on one, 0lb 6oz on another, and 0lb 5.6oz on the third. So all three less than 6oz. And after just coming off the review with the Red Wolf, I guess I’ve painted myself into the corner of trigger snob. I surprised myself with coming to that realization as I’ve always felt like I could make just about any trigger work. So, what did that Concept trigger come out to? Well, 10 shot average for Concept trigger weight = 2lb 5.5oz.

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I’ll be using the directions in that manual to lighten this trigger up at some point. After all that trigger bad-mouthing…..with the 4x scope testing, I was able to poke holes where I wanted easier than I thought I’d be able to. Will be interesting to see how much I can improve it. (I realize that a light trigger is not necessarily a good trigger, if I can get it a little lighter but a lot crisper on the second stage break, I’ll feel pretty good about it)

Power adjust

Somewhere I thought I read that the Concept Lite had 4 power levels but I’m only finding three (multi model manual says 2-5 power levels, depending on model). There is a nice firm click at each detent but I’m only feeling bottomed-out one way, click in the middle, and then bottomed-out the other direction. I can usually count to 3 okay and that is as high as I’m getting for the different power levels.

Have only tested with JSB 10.34 so far but

High = about 925fps for 19.6fpe

Medium = about 880-890fps for about 18fpe

Low = about 680-690 for about 11fpe

I like that power output breakdown. High for flat, long range (relative to .177) if the pellets like that speed. Medium for the sometimes reported more optimal fps range of JSB 10.34. Low for backyard pest bird or barn/house duty with reduced risk of poking holes in barn roofs/fences/etc. Both High and Medium are high enough powered to be useful for FT, but neither are over the limit. It becomes a “shoot at the more accurate power level” scenario, without compromising and giving up much flatness of trajectory.

Mounts

AOA set me up with a new set of Sportsmatch high, 30mm rings. This will be my first experience with this brand. Install went straightforward, but that’s just the nature of scope mounts. Found these guidelines from Sporstmatch on their website and went with it.

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Scope

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First impressions of the MTC scope……..Should be interesting. I’ve not researched the MTC brand at all, or even looked through one yet in daylight (package with scope got here late last night). 30mm tube, weight mentioned previously. 16.42” long but I added a roughly two inch sunshade so bout 18.5inches long. Second focal plane. Focus down to 10meters. 1/4moa clicks. Resettable turrets that have a neat mechanism (the turret marks are on a band like a wedding ring, unlock the turrets, spin the wedding band for zero to be where you want it, lock it back down). Paperwork says mil reticle is true mil at 10x so it appears to be a mismatched mil/moa configuration. Illuminated reticle, but only the center section. The scope caps thread in (vs tension fit slip-on like I’m used to), which is nice. I was curious how it’d work if the threads got tight with the flip up cap portion cockeyed but it’s not a problem as they have a lockable ring that can allow “tight” to be moved to correctly orient the flip up.

Reticle is a modified Christmas tree type, and pretty thin.

AOA included a sunshade and small side wheel. I like how the side wheel attaches (three set screws and pretty stout feel). But it’s pretty small in diameter for FT (3 inches I think). If the factory printed distances are anywhere near accurate, 10 to 15 yards is nearly half the diameter of the circle, that’s a good thing.

Not a typical field target scope. I’ve not shot a match with a scope that had an illuminated reticle but have come across a few really dark lanes where I thought it would have been nice. So that will be cool to try out. It’ll also be interesting to see how it ranges for distance by focus determination, whether or not the turrets are repeatable enough to be a clicker, if temp shift is a problem, etc. Basically all of the demands FT shooters place on their scopes. The results of all of that will be reported.

Moderator

Also my first experience with a 0db moderator. Feels like a quality unit, has a little heft to it, more than the Huggett. When I saw that it is red I groaned a little as I didn’t think it would even sort of match. Once I got it on the gun I thought to myself, “hey now, that looks pretty sharp.” It’s kinda like the accent wall your wife talked you into painting a very different color than the rest of the walls. It sounded like a really bad idea and you thought you’d hate it, but once it was all done it looks pretty good in a spice-things-up sorta way. I’ll report on what I think about its efficiency in the hushing department (the only reason to even put one on a gun).

Plans

Currently hoping to have time in the next few weeks for lots of accuracy testing and working up the scope and gun for a field target match on the second weekend in July. Although he often accompanies me to summer matches for the camping, my 6 year old kiddo has not ever shot in a formal match. I’m really hoping that we can spend some time together shooting this gun, practicing and figuring it out so that we can both shoot it at that July match. It’ll be his first match and I’ve got high hopes for it. It’s a good size and weight for him, cocks with minimal effort, and the ease of increasing/decreasing the length of pull with that adjustable buttstock will make it just about perfect for us to shoot the same gun together at a match. However it turns out, should be fun. And I’ll do continued reporting on what I learn and find out about the gun.

(I already have a complete chrono string with it on HIGH with JSB 10.34, that’ll probably be the next report…pretty consistent and lots of shots for a 180cc tube).
 
@Franklink....looks good and I got the Brocock Compatto Sniper XR in .177 cal back in April. I think for the most part the internals between the Compatto and Concept are the same, and I am sure you will really enjoy it. I lowered the trigger down to about 2 ft. And the highest energy level I have recorded with it is 18.4 ft/lbs with H&N Hornets using the FX pocket chronograph. Out at an HFT event I found the rifle laser accurate as long as I did my part. I have a FX 6 to 18 x 44mm scope on it. Because I live in the Netherlands, I can only use the Compatto for target, but if all works out in the Sept/Oct I will take it and FX Crown with me to the USA when I go to Idaho to visit family (dairy hunts) for pigeons and starlings.

Like @l.leon said...looking forward to the reviews.
 
Comments on the 10 grainish to 11 grainish pellets and it looks like those are the range my rifle likes. I am just for my order from Krale. I wish I could find some JSB Hades here in the netherlands for my target work. My Brocock Compatto seems to like the mid-heavy weight pellets more, aka above 10 grain. Don’t bother with slugs, at least I wasn’t able to get any results with the lightest 15.5 grain NSAs. Unless I can crank of the power of the Compatto, slugs aren’t in its future.
 
Shot string with power wheel on High

Lots of info in these graphics.......

This first one shows everything, including shots taken off the reg:

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This is all the same data from the same string as above, but cutting off the unregulated shots and showing #s for just the regulated shots:

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I overfilled by 5 bars so there's a couple extra shots in there from the accidental overfill.

The first illustrates a shot count for uses where tight spread are not as critical (plinking, hunting, etc). So that would be about 75 decent shots. 

The second is more realistic for serious target work, whether paper or field target, call it 65-70 good shots from a 250-125 bar fill.

Out of curiosity I did a few things during this shot string, mostly with the intent of testing consistency. The first was that i stopped at shot 40 to go eat dinner. There was about a 45 minute gap between the 40th and 41st shot. It just happened that way, but I thought it could show me if there's any regulator creep (or at least significant reg creep to see it within 45 minutes). The verdict on that one, nope. Shot 41 was right inline with shot 40 (4fps difference between them). The second was that at shot 50 I decided to flip through the other power levels to see if that induced any inconsistencies in fps. I was wondering if the gun would need to settle back after the power being adjusted. Nope, shot 51 was 906.6fps and shot 50 was 911.3 so it doesn't appear to need any settling shots after the power wheel gets messed with.

I also worked out the fpe/cuin efficiency and I'm getting 1.04 using 70 shots (10.34gr @ 924fps) from 3700-1960psi (255-135bar). Not amazing, but this gun is completely bone stock, no tuning or tinkering. 

Pretty happy overall with the power output and shot count. Looking good for field target as far as consistency and efficiency go. 

Hopefully it proves to be accurate as well.
 
Hi @Franklink,

First of all, I love the reviews you do! Keep up the great work!

I own last year's version of the Brocock Sniper and would love to compare the shroud / end cap to my model. At some point can you take some photos of what's there? It's hard to tell from the photo of the parts schematic. Does your ldc screw on to the end cap?


I'll get some pictures on here showing the area you've requested.


 
Hi @Franklink,

First of all, I love the reviews you do! Keep up the great work!

I own last year's version of the Brocock Sniper and would love to compare the shroud / end cap to my model. At some point can you take some photos of what's there? It's hard to tell from the photo of the parts schematic. Does your ldc screw on to the end cap?


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Yes, LDC screws to end cap. End cap removed from shroud with big flat screwdriver in those slots. 

Barrel ends about 2.125inches before the shroud does. 

This one seems to not have the cone shape seen in the photos you posted of yours. No evidence of clipping here. 
 
Progress and Observations

I had a few days off work and realized it would by my best chance at spending some time to get to know the Concept and MTC scope. The goal: get the scope and gun worked up for a field target match about 10 days from now.

The Scope

I like to have the side wheel marked before I start figuring out 10-55 yard impact points. Doing it in this manner allows for clicks or holdovers to match the marks on the sidewheel, not necessarily exact yardages. I do, however, like the yardage marks to be fairly accurate. It has been over a year since I marked up a side wheel, and frankly I forgot how big of a pain in the rear end it is. One problem: the sidewheel sent with the MTC from AOA only has a 3inch diameter and really isn't big enough to space out the yardage marks very effectively. Surprisingly the MTC wheel has yardage marks that are fairly accurate, with 10-15 taking up slightly half of the 360 degrees, which is fine, but 45, 50, 55 are simply too close together for FT use. So, I needed a bigger wheel and a non-permanent means of affixing it (since this isn't my scope). I settled on a 6 inch (diameter) plastic lid I found in my tool room, only to find that the depth of the lid would contact the gun and scope tube. I then found a 4 inch diameter plastic lid with the correct depth and figured that I could maybe attach it in an eccentric fashion to maximize the distance between the far yardage marks. A 4 inch vs 3 inch change doesn't seem like much, but the difference in circumference is 3.2 inches, and can be further optimized by the planned off-center mounting.

Here is the OEM wheel (stock photo)

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Here is what I came up with:

(First pic shows general idea: correct diameter washers in the 3 round holes of oem wheel, M8bolts + nyloc nuts, I fabricated some little bars out of aluminum to bridge the structural spokes of the wheel and hold the oem wheel to my new "wheel")

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Holes drilled in appropriate places for fastening bolts, as well as access to IR button and the three inner bolts that tighten the oem wheel to the hub on the scope. 

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Some rattle can black (that I already had) and strategically placed holes to help with aesthetics....

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On the gun.....

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For a plastic lid and $3.27 of bolts/washers/nuts.......doesn't look too horrible, and the price was right. 

So, now that I had the wheel situation somewhat sorted, next step was to stretch out the long tape measure and weigh it down with landscaping bricks to keep the 20-30mph winds from blowing it all over the place.

The above progress was made amongst other projects (trigger fiddling, cleaning the barrel, mowing yard, fertilizing, garden etc) and by the time I got to this point it was evening.

So, wheel made and painted, paint dry, tape on the wheel, wheel on the gun, tape measure laid out, sit down on the bum bag with big intentions of marking the side wheel AND impact points at the same time........only to find out that the crosshairs are nowhere near vertical/horizontal. Remount of the scope so vertical crosshair is actually vertical. Sit down again and try to focus on my 10yard target with the scope on 30x. NOPE. Strike one against the MTC for field target, it will not focus to 10 yards. I have other scopes, even some that I use for FT that are advertised as 10m focus. Those others have seemed to have enough wiggle room to make 10yards work. Not this one. 10m in MTC land equals exactly 10.9361yards (at least at 30x). So I turned the power down to see at what mag level 10YARDS becomes clear(ish). Turns out shots can be reasonably taken at 15x but "clear" at 10yards is 13x. (It can focus to 18ft when on 5x). So, general plan was to range on max mag (30x) and take shots on 20x. Well, most variable power scopes will have marks at different yardages at different magnification levels. Between just being tired and not paying close enough attention, new to the gun, etc. I was forgetting to go back up to 30x to range and back down to 20x for shots. So it was a mess. I was swearing at the thing by the time I was done because the marks were not repeatable. I was ready to remove the scope and put a different one on the gun. And that's how I went to bed, mad.

Wednesday morning I decided to give it another chance with a clear head. I found out quite quickly that my problems were operator error. When I was careful to range on 30x and shoot on 20x and not allow the twain to meet, beautiful. Ranged quite repeatedly once I got the user-induced problem resolved. 

Here are how the marks worked out, cut out paper is a little out of alignment but it'll work....

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First time with an eccentric wheel and it's just weird. But I was able to mount the wheel with the portion of the circumference matching the farthest distance marks to be the furthest away from the rotation point. End result-maybe 0.25 inches between 50 and 55. 

(Viewing window for scope power can be seen in the above two pics. Different, but pretty obvious what power you're on since that's the only one visible.)

Current thoughts on scope

I'm going to try to click with this scope. So far it seems pretty repeatable. I've worked out my impact points, clicking the elevation wheel, and shot back through them a couple times. It seems pretty repeatable so far. I've got to start at 11meters and go from the same direction each time, but so far so good for ranging (as long as I remember to range with it on the correct power). 

You know that recommendation to spend at least as much on a scope as the gun costs? Yeah, I'm not that guy. I typically cheap-out with my scopes. I am most definitely NOT a scope snob. My experience with semi-modern scope ownership is a couple of UTGs, some Vortex Crossfire's, a couple SWFA 20xs, and a Falcon X50. With that for comparison, the MTC is more clear than the SWFAs, and the difference isn't even arguable. The MTC does have some somewhat gimmicky add-ons though, like the magnification in the flip up lens caps, although I may come to find I like that. (I initially thought the constant tire-pressure monitoring in my wifes vehicle was a gimmick, until the tire pressure warning light came on going down the freeway and the warning gave us time to get off on the next exit and avoid a blow out). I like that the MTC scope caps can flip completely out of the way and lay flat against the scope. I do like the way the MTC turrets reset:

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(That locking ring is better locked with two hands and I got the turret mark ring a little out of alignment in the vid, one-handed is tough). 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S_lUPklnIrE

The scope clicks also feel pretty decent, about like the SWFA, but not as distinct and firm as a friends Midas Tac or my $800-900 Falcon X50. So, I'm thus far pleased with scope clarity and the repeatability of both the ranging-by-focus and turrets.

I was also surprised to find the MTC SCB2 reticle on the Strelok Pro app on my phone. As for that, I'm not a fan of Christmas tree reticles, although this is one of the less busy ones that I've seen. Since I prefer clicking when using a scope for FT, the reticle is somewhat of a moot point. For stadia thickness, they so far seem just about right, not too thick to cover up parts of the target, but not so thin that they're easily lost. 

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Still pretty early but I guess we'll just see how this goes with the MTC.

The Gun

Before these two days of working with the gun I had less than 150 shots through it. In those very few shots I had decided that the first order of business was to lighten up the trigger weight. 

To be continued (ran out of time for right now)

next installment will have discussion and pics of:

  • action removal from chassis 
  • barrel
  • trigger
  • power level discovery
  • prelim accuracy reports (from me and my son)


 
Fantastic, looking forward to the reviews. Not sure if I read over this, but how’s the bark without the LDC? I shot one at EBR last year, was a .22 though. Was a bit loud I thought, and jumped a little too much for my liking. Maybe it was shooting really hot, not sure.

Sorry I missed this comment.

In .177 and with the 0DB moderator it's pretty quiet. But, most sub 20fpe .177 airguns seem to be fairly quiet with a moderator. I was curious and took a couple shots without the mod...too loud. The 2 inches or so of dead space in the end of the shroud helps more than a bare-barrel sub20fpe .177, but it's still not an acceptable backyard gun without a moderator. 

As far as it jumping around, well, this particular one I have is not jumpy. I agree that you may have had a HOT .22. Although, the gun is rather light so I can see the jumpy being a possibility at higher fpe levels. It's always a trade-off. Nice and light and compact is desirable for certain intended uses but can be detrimental for others. It's all about balance and a collection of features that match the desired uses of the owner. 
 
Thanks for your review, I will be following and I am particularly interested in your take on its field target suitability. I do not have any experience with using tactical style stocks but it appears to me it could use some type of add-on cheek riser.

The tactical style is less than ideal for field target. In fact, the streamlined tactical style is the exact OPPOSITE of what most FT specific stocks look like. Usually an FT stock will have knee risers and butt hooks and high cheek risers, etc. I find it fun and challenging to compete with different guns in the FT game. I just did a quick tally and I've shot some where around 10 different guns in FT comps in the last 2 years. From 3 different types of springers (underlever, break barrel, 10m side-cockers), to bullpups to sporters to full fledged FT-specific guns, with all of those being in the three main small calibers (.22, .20, and .177). It is interesting to see what works and what doesnt, what I do and don't like. 

As for how the tactical stock on the Concept XR is doing? So far my most steady hold is to rest the toe end of the buttplate almost on top of my shoulder. That gets the cheek piece nice and high and actually feels pretty good for eye/scope alignment. It also creates three places of contact between my body and the gun: shoulder, grip (trigger hand), and front grip (what would usually be a knee riser). Those three points and the straight line nature of the tactical stock are allowing me to put the entire gun somewhat under tension when sitting on a bum bag. The end result is that my hold is actually pretty stable, judged by the crosshair drift through the scope. 

It's all theory and practice but I'll report back with how it ends up faring in competition. 
 
....continuation

The Gun

Before these two days of working with the gun I had less than 150 shots through it. In those very few shots I had decided that the first order of business was to lighten up the trigger weight. 

Trigger

Looking at the trigger diagram, it looked like I needed access to trigger screw "D," circled in green. (I'll comment on the other colored circles in a minute).

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Mcoulter PM'ed me and explained that he was able to get a quite acceptable trigger by turning this screw. 

It seems that "D" is the only trigger screw not accessible from the slot in the trigger guard, so, the action needed to come out of the chassis. 

Action is held to chassis via these four screws. Seems to be a fairly solid configuration. 

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The one-piece, billet nature of the chassis is evident in these pictures. Even the forearm pic rail appears to be machined out of the same piece of aluminum block as the rest of the chassis. The whole chassis just gives that solid-as-a-crowbar impression. 

It did not even take a full turn on trigger screw "D" to get the gun to the point of not cocking. Something like 1/4 of a turn from it's baseline was the most it could be adjusted and have the gun still cock. 

I retested with the trigger pull gauge, quite a few times, and the new trigger weight is about 1lb, 6oz. Much better but still sort of has a "catching" feel sometimes. Mcoulter also told me his got better with simple use, as the sears sorts of smoothed up with use. Arzrover worked one of these Brocock triggers over with really fine sandpaper (600 @ the most coarse) and then moly on the contact points and saw an improvement as well. 

From the diagram above, I'm thinking the "catch" feel that I'm getting could be improved with the Arzrover approach applied to the red circle areas. 

Also from studying the schematics, it appears that disassembly of the trigger should be as simple as pushing the three pins circle in blue from the trigger block. The part that concerns me is getting it put back together with the trigger springs in the correct places. I can see where they go, it just seems like it would be difficult to hold them in place as the pieces are in the right place for the pins to be replaced, just from the nature of the closed-off trigger block. 

Anyway, I may still get around to polishing up some trigger contact points, but I shot it some more last night after work and it seems to be getting better, "better" being smoother (or I'm just getting used to it). 

Barrel

The next step was to ensure that I was working with a clean bore so I pulled the barrel. I was VERY pleased to see that it has a very similar configuration to how the Red Wolf barrels are held in their breeches. The set-up is simply two set screws coming down through the top of the breech. The set screws are pretty large diameter. I have no way to measure the RW set screws at this point, but from memory these on the Concept might be a bit bigger diameter. Overall a pretty solid attachment method.

(I'll go into this more in a a future installment, but this is a HUGE improvement over the barrel/breech configuration in the first gun Brocock used the Concept name for. Yes, I own one and it is a very different gun. The future post will be a old vs new comparison + improvements of the Brocock Concept Elite S6 and the Brocock Concept XR Lite). 

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These set screws in the Concept are actually flat bottomed, with a slight taper around the edges. This flat bottomed set-up mates up perfectly with two round, flat bottomed dimples machined into the barrel.

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The shroud is hold onto the barrel with a collar at this end, and appears to have some sort of collar on the muzzle end to keep the barrel centered in the shroud. I didn't feel like I needed to remove the shroud from the barrel for cleaning so left it at this stage.

The barrel is 17 inches long, with a little over 2 inches of free space between the end of the barrel and the end of the shroud. 

Barrel was cleaned after removing the bolt probe oring. Same configuration here as the Red Wolf too, oring in groove cut into barrel (probe is free of oring). 

The transfer port on this little .177 is fairly small. I measured it at 1/8 inch. 

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I thought I could see some leading in the last couple inches of barrel, and was told the gun had been shot before I got it. I used some JB bore paste to both get rid of those deposits and to polish the barrel. It took some time, but the JB brought the bore to a pretty polished state. Pics of bores are tough to get but here is one of the lead (there is some fuzz and some droplets of the Slick 50 that I was using to flush the JB and as a patch wetting agent.)

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And one of a pellet pushed through the barrel:

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I wanted a good pic of the crown but couldn't get the lighting quite right down in the shroud to make it visible. 

Reassembly, and a discovery about the power levels

It appears that the pin that provides the clicks/detents for the power wheel was installed incorrectly at the factory. Here is that pin.

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The pin and spring live under one of the four screws that hold the action and chassis together (I'm holding an allen key point to the hole they go in). Prior to the take-down the gun only had three power levels, and it was fairly stiff to adjust from one to the next. I swear I read somewhere that this gun is supposed to have four power levels. I reinstalled the pin by looking at it and putting it in the way that seemed to make the most sense for a detent mechanism. Cranked on the power wheel afterwards and found a much smoother tactile effect, and FOUR power levels. Each power level is still very distinct, but it cycles through them more smoothly. 

After that power wheel discovery I was wondering what effect it would have on the power output so got the chronograph back out. The top three power levels are pretty much what they were before, but the newly discovered one does about 320fps with JSB 10.34. I think that puts it in the just a couple fpe range. Not sure what use such a low power level has, but it could be fun with really light pellets and indoor use in the winter. I'd guess there are A TON of shots at that fpe output, and oh so quiet. Almost like the practice/trigger control option that came on some of the old ssp FWB 10m guns. 

First glimpses of accuracy

After all of the above, I spent a fair amount of time mapping out impact points. They're all lining up pretty well with what Strelok predicts. The 1/4 moa scope clicks are different for me, but seem to be working repeatably.

I was having gusts to 30mph for these couple days and simply can't really assess the accuracy much. 

Here are some 8-10shot groups taken at 55 yards from a bum bag. Lots of hold off necessary and timing between gusts is tricky. I think the circles are 1.25 inches. So, nothing impressive, but it's not the guns fault that the wind is insane.

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Here's how it did closer where the wind isn't able to have such a profound effect, 5 @ 20 yards:

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And finally (and perhaps the one I'm most proud of) my 6 year old son's groups with the gun, completely independent of me cocking, holding, or assisting in any way. Modified Hunter class position (tripod instead of bipod) sitting on his tiny little bucket. 

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That circle is 1.5 inches and these were taken from various distances between 10 and 20 yards. He needs some more practice on further distances, but that's plenty good for him to have a fun time at the next match, knocking down some field targets. The light nature of the gun, coupled with a decent trigger, short LOP (adjusted to) and low cocking effort are combining into a complete package that is, thus far, the most easily shootable gun we've had him try. 

Also shot it a little more after work last night, in less wind (probably 8-15mph). I was again shooting at 55 yards and was really liking the accuracy it was capable of. I didn't snap a pic but it seems like it was multiple 10 shot groups into less than an inch with appropriate hold-offs and timing. Nice. 

(I really haven't yet tried to get a qualitative assessment of accuracy, as I've been focusing on getting FT match ready. I will eventually do a bunch of shooting with various pellets from a bench/bipod and report the accuracy that the gun is capable of. From FT position, seems quite good.) 




 
Thanks Franklink, sounds like that tactical stock wasn’t a deterrence to you getting a solid comfortable hold then. Your groups look great to me for that kind of wind, should zip through the 1 1/2 to 2 inch kill zones readily. I bet the bench shots will be exceptional. Too bad about the scope not focusing down to 10 yards, sounds like it has good clear glass. I also liked your adapt-a-lid eccentric focus wheel idea. I ended up using some brass flat stock and stainless steel rivets on my UTG scope and wheel (stole the idea from AGN member Philip Hepler) to make a comma wheel. Think I outspent you by 5 bucks😬.
 
Eye Opener

One of the fun things about airguns for me is that it is a continual learning experience. I really enjoy conceptualizing and understanding the physics of it all. The science behind airguns simply intrigues me. With that in mind...........

We all seem to settle into things we just know are true, based on personal experiences. The phrase, "preconceived notion" is probably a much more accurate assessment of the airgun truisms we all cling to. For me one of these "facts" has been that the JSB 10.34 is the best combination of flat shooting and wind resistance for the < 20fpe field target game. When I first got involved it seemed that most competitors were using this pellet. Recently more and more in the matches where I shoot are switching over to the JSB Monster Diabolo13.43gr (.177). I've pondered the change myself and concluded, multiple times, that there's just no way the improvement in deflecting the wind from a heavier/better BC pellet could be worth the more loopy trajectory of the heavier weight. Ranging the distance correctly is so critical, that I've argued myself into the same stance that I'll stick with the flatter shooting, lighter 10.34. I've been so convinced of this, that I've never bought or tested any of the JSB 13.43gr. 

Every once in a while a shooting session drastically changes a view or belief. And I had one of those with the Concept Lite XR a few days ago. AOA had sent a tin of the JSB 13.43gr Monster Diabolo 13.43grs to be tested with the gun, as well as a few other types of pellets. 

Here are the chronograph readings taken during the testing, from the pellets provided by AOA and a lot of my own:

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(Power level 4 is what I'm calling the highest fpe output and 1 is the lowest)

(The 7.87s are the lightest pellet I've got, while I was doing the accuracy/chrono testing I wanted to see how fast they'd shoot. Talk about a cool little winter/indoor/inclement weather gun at this power level! Nearly no noise made by the gun at all, nor of the pellet hitting the paper, just so low in energy that the "smack" of impact isn't even there). 

Here are the 10 shot groups made by the above chrono-recorded shots:

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My aim points here are photocopied dimes, so 0.705 inches. Shot at 53 yards from a bench/bipod. The 8-10mph winds were pretty steady for this one (above). 

This (below) was also shot on Saturday (a different time of day), from a bum bag, and at 53 yards also. Since this plays into the realizations I had concerning pellets, thought it pertinent information to be shared as well:

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The winds were much harder to shoot in for this second page of groups. It would go from none to 8-10mph in gusts, nothing even resembling consistent. This one was shot to see if accuracy would be any better at 850fps vs 920. (I concluded that the difference in accuracy between the JSB 10.34 going 850 or 920 was negligible.) 

Conclusions

First, the eye opener for me was how much better these 13.43gr JSBs did than the 10.34. This little Concept put 10 into 0.65 inches! In wind! Remember these are sub 20fpe .177 pellets. Wind really influences them. I've been pondering on making the jump to the 13.43s for the last few days, after the above shooting session. I was amazed to see how little they get pushed compared to the 10.34. Turned my beliefs upside down.

Second conclusion: this Concept is quite accurate. As I'm getting more comfortable shooting the gun, I'm slowly realizing how to shoot it. And it's proving to be a very good shooter. I'm excited to use it this weekend and see how it does in competition.
 
It's been a couple weeks since I've compiled a report but the Concept and I have covered lots ground, literally and figuratively. 

I'll hopefully find some time in the next few days, but upcoming reports will be on: 

  • Trigger updates and improvement
  • Pdog hunting session
  • Nuisance cottontail pesting
  • Efficiency
  • Field Target results and thoughts from two matches (and how my son did with it)
  • Scope performance
  • General update to my impressions of the gun
  • 0DB performance