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Bit the bullet-ordered a Yong Heng compressor

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The second stage seals are often very tight on a new Yong Heng, I don't think people run them with no load long enough to break in the new seals. They will also generate a lot of heat due to the friction on the new seals until they wear in a bit. The best break-in would be short duration runs letting it cool to room temperature between runs, slowly increasing the duration of each run while monitoring the temperature. When the unit can run for at least 20 minutes without a load without getting hot it is then ready to use. Not too different from when I broke in my boat engine, low rpm's for so many minutes with short bursts of higher rpm's until broken in. The manuals on these units are sadly short on information but much can be learned from others who have had long-term success with them.
 
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I see a lot of people have the water intake and “exhaust” in the same 5 gallon bucket. I would recommend 2 bucks, one cold water bucket for intake and empty one for “exhaust”, the water comes out after just a minute of running is quite warm so I let the warm water collect in the empty bucket and refill the intake with fresh cold water and definitely helped me with thermal regulation or running a bit longer before I shut it off at 55 degrees. The factory pump will empty the 5 gallon bucket in around 5 minutes and if you put your hand in the water it’s almost bath water warm, my guess it’s around 80 degrees when the intake water is around 55-60 degrees.
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I started that way, too. Putting a lot of ice in a lot of water... until I realized that I was cooling the compressor way too much during its very short run times. In a couple of minutes, the water temperature of the exhaust is barely warm. I prefer to limit thermal differentials. Of course, if you start to run that thing for extended periods of times, and as much as I like this compressor, I really don't think it's made for that, it would be a totally different ball game
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I believe cooler is always better. I use a smaller volume of ice in a smaller volume of water, adding and draining as needed, and it has worked well for 2 years. Others may have different experiences.
 
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I work every day with high performance, very high temperatures, engines and it's mandatory to let them get on temperature and cool down slowly after usage. The enemy here is not excessive temperatures but mechanical stress induced by parts at much different temperatures.

Just had a little test run yesterday and here are the results:

Avenger from 1,800 to 4,100psi

-Half Home Depot bucket (around 3 USG/11 L) of cold tap water at 16C (61F)
-Initial compressor temperature 22.6C (72.7F)
-Water pump run for around 20sec: 20.5C (68.9F)
-Compressor runs with no load for 20sec: 28.5C (83.3F)
-Load for 60sec charging: 44.6C (112.3F)
-No load for another 15sec: 43C (109.4F)
-Turned the compressor off and let the water cool it down to 35C (95F) to evacuate the excess heat then turn the pump off to let it cool slowly.


There's absolutely no need for extra cooling in THIS scenario. When I charge a Marauder, I even let it run a little longer with no load as it only takes 45sec to go from 2,000 to 3,000 (less pressure differential but larger cylinder).
 
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Well, the Yong Heng compressor came today, it was waiting at my door, and well, I am fairly impressed with the mental quality of the compressor.

Over the next few days I will watch some videos and read what you all posted (thanks again by the ways) to make sure to set up the compressor correctly and know how to operate it. Then after I am sure I know what I am doing hook it up to the tanks. :)

I will report back when I have successfully completed my first charge or things end in disaster, regardless there will be a report.

5AE0DB4D-9293-405D-931D-8F3BC0003045.1608576227.jpeg

 
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To be honest with you, the large in-line filters are unnecessary. I purchased a big Tuxing filter to use inline with my DAVV compressor. I found that it took 3x's longer to achieve regulated pressure with the pressure that was left in the tank because the filter itself acts like a giant plenum. I had cotton filters in it. I also played with layers of desiccant beads. Unless you're using the air for breathing air, it's unnecessary. I finally went back to a really small water separator on the end of my charging hose. I did use the larger filter from the Tuxing cut to a smaller length and forcefully crammed into the smaller water separator. I have had ZERO issues with water or oil in the air when using this method. In my opinion, these PCP pumps are working to their max under normal usage. Why add unnecessary stress onto them?

Regarding adding ice to the water, this is also unnecessary. If you read the operators manual, they run best between 55 and 75 degrees C. If you start the compressor with cold water, the piston will freeze up in the cylinder walls due to the contraction of the steel housing from the extreme cold. I found this out the first time I ran my compressor. Just start out with room temperature water. Let the compressor temp get to about 20-22 degrees C, and start it up. If the temp starts to go beyond 75 degrees, you've either got a cooling water issue, or you've run it too long. But if you MUST cool the water, then only fill the 5 gallon bucket 1/2 full in the beginning. And have another 2 gallons ready to go to add to that water when it starts to get too hot.

Another issue I've found with the compressors is they vibrate violently. So I made a device that the compressor sits in that dampens the vibrations via springs, and it completely eliminates the vibrations. This has made a HUGE difference. Don't run your compressor for more that 15-20 minutes at a time. Let it rest 20 or 30 minutes between fills. It's not ideal, but your compressor will last WAYYYYY longer by doing this.

Lastly, when you're done using the compressor, get a small LP air compressor (like a little pancake compressor) and set it to about 60-80 psi. Use a blow nozzle to blow the excess water out of the water cooling reservoir. If you're using tap water, then it is loaded with minerals. And the water reservoir is aluminum. The minerals will DEVOUR the aluminum if it just sits inside of it forever. The other alternative (if you want to leave the water in it) is to get a few gallons of distilled water to use for cooling. Just recycle it. If you want to cool tha water off without contaminating it with mineralized water, then freeze some water bottles and drop them into the buckets of distilled water to cool them. 
 
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To be honest with you, the large in-line filters are unnecessary. I purchased a big Tuxing filter to use inline with my DAVV compressor. I found that it took 3x's longer to achieve regulated pressure with the pressure that was left in the tank because the filter itself acts like a giant plenum. I had cotton filters in it. I also played with layers of desiccant beads. Unless you're using the air for breathing air, it's unnecessary. I finally went back to a really small water separator on the end of my charging hose. I did use the larger filter from the Tuxing cut to a smaller length and forcefully crammed into the smaller water separator. I have had ZERO issues with water or oil in the air when using this method. In my opinion, these PCP pumps are working to their max under normal usage. Why add unnecessary stress onto them?

Regarding adding ice to the water, this is also unnecessary. If you read the operators manual, they run best between 55 and 75 degrees C. If you start the compressor with cold water, the piston will freeze up in the cylinder walls due to the contraction of the steel housing from the extreme cold. I found this out the first time I ran my compressor. Just start out with room temperature water. Let the compressor temp get to about 20-22 degrees C, and start it up. If the temp starts to go beyond 75 degrees, you've either got a cooling water issue, or you've run it too long. But if you MUST cool the water, then only fill the 5 gallon bucket 1/2 full in the beginning. And have another 2 gallons ready to go to add to that water when it starts to get too hot.

Another issue I've found with the compressors is they vibrate violently. So I made a device that the compressor sits in that dampens the vibrations via springs, and it completely eliminates the vibrations. This has made a HUGE difference. Don't run your compressor for more that 15-20 minutes at a time. Let it rest 20 or 30 minutes between fills. It's not ideal, but your compressor will last WAYYYYY longer by doing this.

Lastly, when you're done using the compressor, get a small LP air compressor (like a little pancake compressor) and set it to about 60-80 psi. Use a blow nozzle to blow the excess water out of the water cooling reservoir. If you're using tap water, then it is loaded with minerals. And the water reservoir is aluminum. The minerals will DEVOUR the aluminum if it just sits inside of it forever. The other alternative (if you want to leave the water in it) is to get a few gallons of distilled water to use for cooling. Just recycle it. If you want to cool tha water off without contaminating it with mineralized water, then freeze some water bottles and drop them into the buckets of distilled water to cool them.
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I disagree with most of this. I've run mine with ice for a long time and it works well, especially in summer heat. I don't buy the thermal shock idea. Just topped off my Great White this week in 40 degree outside temps. Indicated compressor temp went above 50 degrees in about 3 minutes and continued to rise toward 60 until I added ice. That immediately dropped temp back to lower 50's and fan turned on dropped it to upper 40's where it runs happily. As to the water separator, my Diablo is attached inline after the small stock filter and it'll stay that way.
 
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If you read the operator manual from your Yong Heng, it will tell you the optimum operating temperature range is 55-75C. I never said it can't operate cooler than 55 degrees. My compressor normally operates at 58-60. This is under full load. The only time it gets higher is when I let the water get hot. But the manufacturer will tell you to shut off the compressor if the temp gets above 75C.

The outside temp has nothing to do with the temp of the compressor. The physics behind the compression process create an exothermic reaction. Like when you push air from your large CF bottle into the small bottle on your rifle, the rifle bottle gets hot. So regardless of whether it's 40 degrees or 70 degrees, the compression process will overcompensate for external temps and generate heat. It's basic physics. Just grab the stainless steel tube that comes off of the HP side of the compressor while it's under load and see how long you can keep your hand on it. It won't matter if it's 10 degrees outside. It will still burn the hell out of you.

I guess I should have elaborated on the "ice". What I meant was there's no need to get the water freezing cold BEFORE you start the compressor. I understand if the water gets to a temp that you're uncomfortable with, then you can add ice to cool it down. But there's no need to run the compressor as cool as possible. The manual says the "sweet spot" is between 55 and 75C. So if that's what the company who makes the machine says to do, then that's what I'm going to do.

If you feel like running a large Tuxing filter inline with your CF tank, then that's your prerogative. In my experience, it's unnecessary. I have ZERO water or oil in my air using the small water separator. I think the Tuxing is a waste of money. Just my opinion. But to each their own.




 
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...Lastly, when you're done using the compressor, get a small LP air compressor (like a little pancake compressor) and set it to about 60-80 psi. Use a blow nozzle to blow the excess water out of the water cooling reservoir. ...
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I guess I'm even more redneckish than my wife says as I just blow the water after a run using the exhaust tube... ;-)
 
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If you read the operator manual from your Yong Heng, it will tell you the optimum operating temperature range is 55-75C. I never said it can't operate cooler than 55 degrees. My compressor normally operates at 58-60. This is under full load. The only time it gets higher is when I let the water get hot. But the manufacturer will tell you to shut off the compressor if the temp gets above 75C.

The outside temp has nothing to do with the temp of the compressor. The physics behind the compression process create an exothermic reaction. Like when you push air from your large CF bottle into the small bottle on your rifle, the rifle bottle gets hot. So regardless of whether it's 40 degrees or 70 degrees, the compression process will overcompensate for external temps and generate heat. It's basic physics. Just grab the stainless steel tube that comes off of the HP side of the compressor while it's under load and see how long you can keep your hand on it. It won't matter if it's 10 degrees outside. It will still burn the hell out of you.

I guess I should have elaborated on the "ice". What I meant was there's no need to get the water freezing cold BEFORE you start the compressor. I understand if the water gets to a temp that you're uncomfortable with, then you can add ice to cool it down. But there's no need to run the compressor as cool as possible. The manual says the "sweet spot" is between 55 and 75C. So if that's what the company who makes the machine says to do, then that's what I'm going to do.

If you feel like running a large Tuxing filter inline with your CF tank, then that's your prerogative. In my experience, it's unnecessary. I have ZERO water or oil in my air using the small water separator. I think the Tuxing is a waste of money. Just my opinion. But to each their own.



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Consider the compressor running on a 90 degree day vs. running on a 40 degree day. Yes, the compressor generates heat and tries to reach a given temperature. And yes, it will do so consistently if no outside forces are applied. But the cooling water is starting at 90 degrees in one case vs. 40 degrees in the other. That would make a difference. Eventually it would reach equilibrium and it would not make a difference. But my topoffs take about 10 minutes and it absolutely does make a difference starting at 40 degrees vs. starting at 90 degrees. And with one venting at the 5 minute mark I do see moisture released. I prefer to have the additional filtration to remove any moisture that might be present. As you note, it is your prerogative to not use that extra filtration. I may not be gaining anything but similarly you might be missing something.
 
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Nice setup Blackpaw. I also received my Yong Heng compressor, just yesterday. I filled it up and tested everything then. Today, I will make my first fill. I got mine from Walmart with a 4 year protection plan that was an additional 45 bucks. That protection will potentially be worth every penny. 



I wonder if people really think using distilled water is best for long term usage. I have seen some YouTube videos recommending this due to minerals in the water contributing to corrosion.



Good luck with the new compressor. BTW have not had good luck with shooting NSA slugs out of my Brocock Bantam Sniper in 177. I didn't like the way the slug seated into the rifle. More specifically it seemed a real tight fit getting in there. I couldn't tell if it it was resistance from the o-rings on the breech or if it was normal pushing the slug to the rifling. My gut feeling is it was rubbing real tight on the o-rings and I have concerns about it pre-maturely wearing out those breech seals. I am aware you have the Compatto which may likely have similar tolerances.
 
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@sasquatch thanks for the info and luck. I am thinking about buying a cheaper water purifier for the the water to filter out some of the minerals.

I bought a second filter that is similar to the stock filter that came with the compressor. I am thinking of using this filer instead of the stock one and see how it goes for a fill on my 1 L tank. Right now I am freezing some bags of ice for the trial pumping tomorrow. I still need to get a new bucket, funnel and some teflon tape, one video recommended it for supply line port, and I will get this stuff in the morning.

Also, I THINK they sent me a compressor that has an additional feature, adjustable shut off pressure. I had ordered the one with 300 bar auto shot off, this one has a solenoid twitch that allows me to set it to what ever I want. Maybe I am mistaken and not complaining.
 
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@sasquatch thanks for the info and luck. I am thinking about buying a cheaper water purifier for the the water to filter out some of the minerals.

I bought a second filter that is similar to the stock filter that came with the compressor. I am thinking of using this filer instead of the stock one and see how it goes for a fill on my 1 L tank. Right now I am freezing some bags of ice for the trial pumping tomorrow. I still need to get a new bucket, funnel and some teflon tape, one video recommended it for supply line port, and I will get this stuff in the morning.

Also, I THINK they sent me a compressor that has an additional feature, adjustable shut off pressure. I had ordered the one with 300 bar auto shot off, this one has a solenoid twitch that allows me to set it to what ever I want. Maybe I am mistaken and not complaining.
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My gauge was the adjustable shutoff type originally also-it developed a leak at about 10 hours of use. Replaced it with a non-adjustable shutoff type and has ran like a charm since. I never really used the auto shutoff feature since you need to stay pretty close to these compressors anyway and I never wanted mine to shut off under pressure. I preferred to vent and let it run for a few seconds to relieve pressure and remove moisture. I now have a dive compressor but the YH still works and is used regularly, although under a lighter work load now.
 
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I work every day with high performance, very high temperatures, engines and it's mandatory to let them get on temperature and cool down slowly after usage. The enemy here is not excessive temperatures but mechanical stress induced by parts at much different temperatures.

Just had a little test run yesterday and here are the results:

Avenger from 1,800 to 4,100psi

-Half Home Depot bucket (around 3 USG/11 L) of cold tap water at 16C (61F)
-Initial compressor temperature 22.6C (72.7F)
-Water pump run for around 20sec: 20.5C (68.9F)
-Compressor runs with no load for 20sec: 28.5C (83.3F)
-Load for 60sec charging: 44.6C (112.3F)
-No load for another 15sec: 43C (109.4F)
-Turned the compressor off and let the water cool it down to 35C (95F) to evacuate the excess heat then turn the pump off to let it cool slowly.


There's absolutely no need for extra cooling in THIS scenario. When I charge a Marauder, I even let it run a little longer with no load as it only takes 45sec to go from 2,000 to 3,000 (less pressure differential but larger cylinder).
Click to expand...

I personally would not fill the Gen1 Avenger that high until they got the new improved replacement parts available.
 
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I work every day with high performance, very high temperatures, engines and it's mandatory to let them get on temperature and cool down slowly after usage. The enemy here is not excessive temperatures but mechanical stress induced by parts at much different temperatures.

Just had a little test run yesterday and here are the results:

Avenger from 1,800 to 4,100psi

-Half Home Depot bucket (around 3 USG/11 L) of cold tap water at 16C (61F)
-Initial compressor temperature 22.6C (72.7F)
-Water pump run for around 20sec: 20.5C (68.9F)
-Compressor runs with no load for 20sec: 28.5C (83.3F)
-Load for 60sec charging: 44.6C (112.3F)
-No load for another 15sec: 43C (109.4F)
-Turned the compressor off and let the water cool it down to 35C (95F) to evacuate the excess heat then turn the pump off to let it cool slowly.


There's absolutely no need for extra cooling in THIS scenario. When I charge a Marauder, I even let it run a little longer with no load as it only takes 45sec to go from 2,000 to 3,000 (less pressure differential but larger cylinder).
Click to expand...

Agree that extra cooling is not needed in THAT scenario. I've regularly used my Yong Heng to top off a Great White tank, usually from around 3000 to 4500. In THIS scenario the extra cooling is necessary IMO, especially in summer heat. During winter I could probably get by without any added ice but I still add in a bit if using it for tank top-off. I can top up my 3600 CF Condor tank in just a few minutes and no extra cooling is needed for that.

I'll disagree on the comparison to any other type of "engine". I believe the high pressure rings on these compressors are probably more sensitive to excess heat than any other type of "engine" (metal rings) would be. Certainly could be wrong and may be wasting my time but my method has worked well for 2 years so I'll stick with it.
 
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I don't know what's gotten lost in translation. I never said not to use ice. I said there's no need to start the water with ice in it. Even if it's summer time. I add colder water to my water supply when the compressor is under full load. If the compressor hits above 60C, I usually add cooler water. I don't add ice, but it doesn't matter if you add cooler water or ice. The goal is the same. To cool off the compressor under load. 

When I first got my compressor, I thought I'd start with ice water. I got the cylinder head down to 18C with the ice water flowing through it. I though the colder you can run it the better. When I went to start it up, the piston locked up in the cylinder. This is because the cylinder head got so cold that it contracted and the piston couldn't make it's full stroke. So I ran lukewarm water through the pump instead and brought the cylinder head up to 28C. It started right up. Lesson learned. But if you read the instruction manual, the manufacturer says the recommended temp for the compressor is between 55 and 75C. I usually turn on my compressor and let it run for 5 minutes before trying to charge a tank. I let it get to 35C, then I close the drain valve and start the process. The temp instantly climbs by 12-15C. It usually settles in at 58C under full load. When I see it climb above 60, I will add some cooler water to the bucket to bring the temp down. The manufacturer also recommends not to operate the unit under load for more than 20 minutes at a time. I adhere to this recommendation as well. 

I still stand by what I said about the Tuxing filters. I just don't think they're necessary. My compressor has a water separator built into it. It doubles as the bleed valve. There's water present every time I bleed it off, but that's because it's working as it should. It's a water separator. It's like unscrewing the draincock on the bottom of a compressor tank. And that in conjunction with the small cotton filter is adequate. Just my opinion. 


 
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