Best Tips on Shooting a Springer!

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Miami Airgunner said:
You know, this does bring up the aspect of 'settling in' with springers, which no one has mentioned here.

My 54 was absolutely not accurate out of the box, and while I've not needed to tinker with it, it has settled in nicely over the years.
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You aren't wrong at all and that is a good point. Mine was actually picked up second hand from a member here. Mine was originally sitting somewhere around 18-19fpe and while it did group better than it does currently, it wasn't well enough to justify keeping it at that power level. My 97 was only 1-2fpe lower and it really did/does put much my 56 to shame. I decided if it couldn't impress me with power, it was going to impress me with power. I tossed an ARH kit in, a Vortek piston seal, and replaced the breech seal. Now I'm sitting in the 22-23fpe area and it definitely has some smackdown behind it.

Long story short, I think I only have a few hundred pellets on that spring and the Vortek seal probably does need to size in a little bettet. I'll keep shooting and see what happens.
 
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Paul Watts creation requires light hold and trigger very light to touch. Shroud typical Paul Watts. 20 Cal.

Beeman R9 .20 Cal 003.JPG
 
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pdxFrank said:
about how i shoot every springer....
View attachment 294813 View attachment 294815

works fine letting the tripod handle the "artillery hold" for me.
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on a synth stock, i'll even add a bipod on occasion.
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either are a lot easier than carrying sandbags around. and seems just as accurate.
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just my 3-cents worth. your results may vary. :)
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Why you did not post distance to target ? That important to understand accuracy of gun
 
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karl_h said:
I found if shooting off a bag on a bench, the springer will often times grab the bag in recoil throwing off the shot. I put a microfiber cloth over my bag and it solved that problem.
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MIne shoots about the same with or without the microfiber cloth. I have to grip it consistently, then squeeze the trigger consistently.

 
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drpietrzak said:
MIne shoots about the same with or without the microfiber cloth. I have to grip it consistently, then squeeze the trigger consistently.

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Generally I'm using a leather bag, it grips and rocks the bag on my RWS 48 without the cloth. I have a taller Caldwell non-leather bag and while it is not as bad, the extra height makes even the smallest amount of grip just as bad, the cloth works on it too.
 
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karl_h said:
Generally I'm using a leather bag, it grips and rocks the bag on my RWS 48 without the cloth. I have a taller Caldwell non-leather bag and while it is not as bad, the extra height makes even the smallest amount of grip just as bad, the cloth works on it too.
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The Key for me is to make sure it is not filled tight or hard. The rifle has to be sinking into it and it just comes straight back.
 
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MartyMcFly said:
Check your stock screws often or apply loctite. Springers have a tendency to vibrate them loose, which will impact accuracy.

-Marty
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I had gotten so frustrated with my Benjamin Prowler. I'd dial it in the AM & would be dead on only to loose zero later in the day. I lost count how many times I tightened those stock screw's using the blue lock tight. I finally decided to use the permanent thread locker & only then did it stay put. Never owned a springer type before but I now know just how much maintenance is needed to keep them accurate. I've since mounted a floating ring set-up for my scope in hopes it doesn't get wrecked.
 
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beerthief said:
weird ? i have an HW35 close to 50 years old and i might check the screws once a year and no locktight .
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It’s the variations in tolerances, materials and power level. Although old, your HW35 might have better threads on the bolts, or the stock inletting might be better or the wood might have a different resonance frequency. The thing to keep in mind is that due to spring oscillations these guns will vibrate and on some examples the sum of the parts results in a resonance frequency that works screws apart.

That said, almost none of these guns have been designed from the get go to take into account the vibrations imparted by the spring, but they should be. Soft bedding, tight tolerances, and appropriately dense materials would do a lot to tame many springers. The Walther LGU/LGV were probably the last springers that attempted to address some of these issues, but even these were just scratching the surface because no one wants to pay a PCP price for a springer…

-Marty
 
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