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Best material for modifying the FX hollow moderator.

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Is felt the best option for lining the inside of the FX factory moderator or are there some better options out there?

Is felt the best option for lining the inside of the FX factory moderator or are there some better options out there?
I used cone baffles and some felt toward the tip retained by a hardware fabric cage
 
People really love their weirauch cans. They basically have a felt wrapped curler, then a washer/baffle, felt wrapped curler, washer/baffle and a final felt wrapped curler. I'm pretty sure that's it. I have one after that pattern. it's serving me well on a pistol. I might also point out my DFL's seem similar. Avery nice monocore wrapped in wire mesh and felt. I also like every piece I can to be airgun only. I think plastic curlers, plastic baffles, and felt work to be both quiet and firearm unfriendly. You can grab some curlers and felt pretty cheap at the store and if you hate it, you're just out a few bucks.
 
3d printed cones are best with nothing else. Here's a link to download my files for .25 caliber or less. They can be used for .30 by opening the hole with a step drill. Two 75mm long center sections work best for higher power guns. This double center setup made my 132fpe impact as quiet as a 30fpe .22 until the slug hit anyway.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4914398 longer baffles
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4914370 shorter baffles. Follow instructions in the pictures.

FX Single Moderator -.jpg
FX Double Moderator -.jpg
 
The Ataman, BP17 also comes with a hollow tube that's, I guess supposed to quiet the bark of the shot...but doesn't !

I tried several different ways of lowering the sound, nothing worked as well as I'd hoped.
Then I got a proverbial...wild hair.
With three RC car spur gears (snug fit in the tube, six pen springs, three pieces of allthread, a few nuts, later... I have a suppressor that actually works, quite well. One of the gears is stationary, the other two will move with the pressure of the shot. Expanding the chamber size actually. The springs act to control the movement of the gears and to return the gears to their...as designed position.
Yeah, it works very well. No I didn't take any photos.

The expanding chamber idea is "similar..." to the Daystate, factory baffles that I put into the shroud of my RTI Compact. With a very light spring holding the baffles in place, I have no need for an external suppressor to quiet my RTI Compact. My cats don't even mind the sound from this gun !
I also modified my Daystate Pulsar and Renegade, by cutting the spring shorter to allow the baffles to move during the shot. Yes, this helpes quiet my two Daystate rifles also.

Mike
 
3d printed cones are best with nothing else. Here's a link to download my files for .25 caliber or less. They can be used for .30 by opening the hole with a step drill. Two 75mm long center sections work best for higher power guns. This double center setup made my 132fpe impact as quiet as a 30fpe .22 until the slug hit anyway.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4914398 longer baffles
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4914370 shorter baffles. Follow instructions in the pictures.

View attachment 269957View attachment 269958
could i please ask how u reached up to 130 fpe? mk2 with 720 power plenum and heavy springs, coils, hammer etc here! oh and im a shortie compact as well!
 
could i please ask how u reached up to 130 fpe? mk2 with 720 power plenum and heavy springs, coils, hammer etc here! oh and im a shortie compact as well!
I used an external plenum on a modified rear block in conjunction with my eccentric plenum design. 700mm barrel with modified transfer port and probe. Larger valve seat, hammer weight and other small things. Regulator at 150 bar.
 
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Just give the dimensions to one of the guys who print moderators and he can make you those baffles for about $5.00 each plus shipping.
Sheese $99 bucks? :unsure::rolleyes:
They are aluminum and anodized. But printing baffles is dirt cheap for just the cost of the filament used. I have a cone baffle design that each baffle screws together thats just over 2.0 OD and thats less than $1.00 per baffle to print for just the raw material. I dont know how much the electricity cost to print it but thats still pretty cheap even including the power.
 
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What are the internal dimensions of that moderator? I will design a baffle set for it which can be printed on an FDM printer and drop the design (stl files) here.
You cant design a baffle set for it its a stacked system. The baffles screw together. I do all my designing, machining or printing. I am currently designing a reflex design for my crown mk2 with a 320mm .177 barrel. I like it short so I want a mod thats short as possible.
 
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You cant design a baffle set for it its a stacked system. The baffles screw together. I do all my designing, machining or printing. I am currently designing a reflex design for my crown mk2 with a 320mm .177 barrel. I like it short so I want a mod thats short as possible.
I've been printing them for years. No reason to screw the baffles together they friction fit inside the tube. Doesn't need a spring or anything else and I run tight clearance to the slug. First shot the pressure seats them to the front where they stay. I even use the fx can on a gauntlet with an adapter I made.

FX Double Moderator -.jpg
.5x20toM20x1 -.png
 
I am familiar with some moderators but not all. I thought we were talking about a moderator that shipped with no internals, just an empty space. I mean if someone can create baffles for it then I can as well, no?
I am not sure what you are talking about. You quoted a post of mine where I talked about a mod I designed that has a 2.0 OD. You asked me what the internal dimension was so you could design baffles for it. If thats the mod you are asking about now then no you cant design baffles for it and no its not just an empty space. The baffles screw together forming the mod. How are you going to make baffles to stick into baffles? Second why would you want to?
 
I've been printing them for years. No reason to screw the baffles together they friction fit inside the tube. Doesn't need a spring or anything else and I run tight clearance to the slug
You guys are killing me with this bs. I have been machining baffles for a very long time and printing. I have made that design of baffles a long time ago and thats nothing like the design I made that screws together. Are you going to tell donny fl or impulse air to stop making mods that screw together because they dont need to since they can be made with simple tubes and baffles that slide into said tube? No? Then quit telling me how I should be designing my mods. You are not showing me anything I didnt know or do years ago. I am talking about a mod that screws together forming the baffles and main body. THE BAFFLE AND BODY ARE ONE PIECE AND YOU SCREW THEM TOGETHER TO FORM WHAT EVER LENGTH MOD YOU WANT. Maybe thats clear enough
 
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