Benjamin PRod smiths

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If you bore out the valve and carefully open the exhaust to the max you can get it, that would be a start. Then like Chris said, use a piece of plastic tube for a transfer port and hope it seals long term with a crush fit. Open the barrel port to match the tube ID and see what happens. It probably won’t be pretty. The gun will be loud and wasting a ton of air trying to get max velocities from it. I also hope your varmints are big because when you’re blasting that much air, I wouldn’t bank on the gun being a tack driver or having any kind of workable shot string. There are other small guns that are more suited for these velocities without pushing their limits. A Prod is a pitching wedge, not a 7 iron.
 
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Vetmx said:
If you bore out the valve and carefully open the exhaust to the max you can get it, that would be a start. Then like Chris said, use a piece of plastic tube for a transfer port and hope it seals long term with a crush fit. Open the barrel port to match the tube ID and see what happens. It probably won’t be pretty. The gun will be loud and wasting a ton of air trying to get max velocities from it. I also hope your varmints are big because when you’re blasting that much air, I wouldn’t bank on the gun being a tack driver or having any kind of workable shot string. There are other small guns that are more suited for these velocities without pushing their limits. A Prod is a pitching wedge, not a 7 iron.
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Great words of advice thank you ! I’ve mostly decided to go down this path so I can have a cheaper high power hunter and not loan out the L2 or m3 to the 18 y/o nephew. We have large rats - I’ve noticed the max stock power is not enough for a “switch off” . I’ve noticed a few rats taking the hit right behind the head and still having 20s of life left.

I’ve looked into the plastic tubing TP. Would it be reasonable to start with drilling out the valve, TP and Barrel tRansfer something around .140? Ideally a decent shot string with maybe 10-12 shots total would be great. Maybe I would be better off sending it to Motörhead lol
 
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Motorhead or Airgun Revisions, the latter mostly specializes in Crosmans and Benjamins.

That spot behind the ear turns them off immediately no matter how big they are.

I’ve shot many a rat with .55 and .50 caliber blowguns, and even with a straight shaft dart sans X-acto blade as broadhead they say adieu without a flinch.

I normally use spring steel rods from worn out umbrellas for maximum penetration or TIG rods cut to particular lengths.
 
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Maybe you should contact some people to see if your dream of a 900fps Prod is a good idea. If you do a search here, there was a dude who was trying to push a Prod a couple years ago. Like me and most others, I think he wound up back in the 700 fps range. I don’t know what the gun is capable of when you push it hard just trying to get an impressive number or two. I always wanted the fastest flat accurate strings I could get for more than one mag so my gun was a 735fps Prod.
 
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Thanks darkhorse and vetmx!
I’ve noticed at 600fps (stock) with a 14.3 - the shot placement is key as the .22 doesn’t penetrate far. Adversely with my l2 at 890 the placement doesn’t matter much as the slower shot.

900 may be a pipe dream but I’m also hoping the attached I found on another forum would do the trick for me. Ie drilling out the TP and valve with a heavier spring set

5FD29F89-841F-4A50-A7D9-FDD9F9D4F177.png
 
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I have nothing against Wayne. But if you’ve known him as long as I have you will notice everything he has is gold. His numbers and results with sub par guns are always stellar. Not calling it bs but it’s the internet. If you look hard enough, you will find something that backs up what you’re thinking. His gun and string are more realistic than 900fps. Now you just have to hope JSAR or someone has a TSS kit available.
 
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DARKHORSE1967 said:
Motorhead or Airgun Revisions, the latter mostly specializes in Crosmans and Benjamins.

That spot behind the ear turns them off immediately no matter how big they are.

I’ve shot many a rat with .55 and .50 caliber blowguns, and even with a straight shaft dart sans X-acto blade as broadhead they say adieu without a flinch.

I normally use spring steel rods from worn out umbrellas for maximum penetration or TIG rods cut to particular lengths.
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I've always been intrigued by blowguns. Been thinking about picking up a Cold Steel .625 model
 
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On my prod, I swapped the valve out for an SS valve. After me having issues getting it to work correctly, I sent it to David Furr who sent it back to me pushing h&n ftt 14.3gr at 850ish (roughly 27fpe). That was a couple years back and it's still holding steady. Issues with trying to push it harder usually results in creating a lousy trigger. The spring pressure that's required pushing the hammer on the sear raises the amount needed to squeeze the trigger.
Even with the SS valve, the trigger on mine is a little stiffer than what I was used to at the beginning.
 
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