What is the difference between a marauder gen 1 and a gen ? .22 cal synthetic stock if it matters.
Benjamin benjamin marauder
- Thread starter fatkid21
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Trigger, valve, stock.
I think the #2 uses two breech screws and the #1 uses four but I am not sure.
I think the #2 uses two breech screws and the #1 uses four but I am not sure.
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There are a few other things too - gen 2 added a depinger, and changed the valve springs as well, but the biggest change was the repositioned trigger to improve ergonomics. Unfortunately that slightly degraded the trigger feel from the Gen 1 set up, at least in many people’s opinion (Gen 2 is still a good trigger, but Gen 1 was better at the cost of a poorer wrist angle). Of course the stocks and air tubes are not interchangeable.
The Gen 1 breech secured with three screws, with the one in the rear hidden under the bolt. On that version the bolt had to be removed to remove the Breech, but it meant the bolt could be pulled without taking down the whole gun. Gen 2 uses four screws to hold down the breech and all are visible with none hidden (neither good or bad, just how it is). The entire breech and barrel has to be removed to pull the bolt if you want to On Gen 2. That’s generally not a huge deal, but it can impact the ease of using a cleaning rod from the breech if you want to do so.
The Gen 1 breech secured with three screws, with the one in the rear hidden under the bolt. On that version the bolt had to be removed to remove the Breech, but it meant the bolt could be pulled without taking down the whole gun. Gen 2 uses four screws to hold down the breech and all are visible with none hidden (neither good or bad, just how it is). The entire breech and barrel has to be removed to pull the bolt if you want to On Gen 2. That’s generally not a huge deal, but it can impact the ease of using a cleaning rod from the breech if you want to do so.
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Can confirm the gen 1 stuff, I am one of the few with an early gen 1 floating around still with my gm barrel 25.
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The Gen 1 bolt has a small grub screw that sticks out from the left side when the bolt is in battery.
It is this grub screw that actually withdraws the hammer into a cocked position.
Remove this screw (Allen head) and you can withdraw the bolt anytime for lubrication, etc.
Careful, though, as it is very easy to cross this screw when re-inserting it to the bolt.
Have a couple extras on hand.
It is this grub screw that actually withdraws the hammer into a cocked position.
Remove this screw (Allen head) and you can withdraw the bolt anytime for lubrication, etc.
Careful, though, as it is very easy to cross this screw when re-inserting it to the bolt.
Have a couple extras on hand.
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The Gen 1 rifles never had a synthetic stock available. The .25 caliber rifles had a barrel made by Green Mountain (which continued into Gen 2 production but now are Crosman made). I own four .25 caliber rifles including one Gen 1 with the GM barrel and I have a spare GM barrel. My testing indicates there is no difference in accuracy, the Crosman barrels seem to like the JSB 34s and the GM barrel seems to like the 25.4 grain pellets best but both shoot all pellets nearly the same.
As to trigger feel and pull, there is no difference IMO. The four bolt hold down of the breech/barrel assembly is definitely stronger for the Gen 2 vs the three bolt for the Gen 1. The rubber sleeve depinger can be installed easily in a Gen 1 but I have found that a nylon and wire bottle brush is more effective.
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Different and NOT interchangeable: * Between Gen 1 and Gen 2 multi shot marauders .. Not the semi auto.
Air tube
Trigger group ( tho trigger blade & intermediate link are the same )
Receivers and its internals ( Tho some internals can be made/altered to work in either )
Stocks
Air tube
Trigger group ( tho trigger blade & intermediate link are the same )
Receivers and its internals ( Tho some internals can be made/altered to work in either )
Stocks
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gen 1 barrels were a little larger bore 22 cal . and some guys had better luck with accuracy shooting some of the H&N pellets that were a little over sized
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The Gen1 had the trigger a bit forward making it better for larger hands.
The Gen1 had a one piece beechwood stock.
The Gen2 was offered with 3 different stocks, all of them have an adjustable cheek piece.
The original was beechwood with plastic cheek piece.
Then a synthetic stock was offered that was a pound lighter, also adjustable cheek piece.
Then the Turkish walnut stock was offered with adjustable cheek piece.
I only had Gen 2. Really liked the 25 I had, always accurate. Sold it, missed it, bought another.
Hunter
The Gen1 had a one piece beechwood stock.
The Gen2 was offered with 3 different stocks, all of them have an adjustable cheek piece.
The original was beechwood with plastic cheek piece.
Then a synthetic stock was offered that was a pound lighter, also adjustable cheek piece.
Then the Turkish walnut stock was offered with adjustable cheek piece.
I only had Gen 2. Really liked the 25 I had, always accurate. Sold it, missed it, bought another.
Hunter
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@HunterWhiteHead if that’s the case, I’ll stick with the gen 2, because even though I have small hands, I’m short!
Any regrets on the .25?
Any regrets on the .25?
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The first real Airgun that I bought was the 25 caliber M-Rod, it was a kit that came with a Center point scope. It was a good hunting rig. I sold it when I was getting chemotherapy for cancer. I wasn’t feeling too well and I sold all of my firearms and most of my Airguns.
I got better. I have purchased 3 rifles since then.
The 25 M-Rod that I have now I bought used. It has been upgraded with a Hill valve and a regulator. I resealed it when I received it. Then I added a side lever breech from JSAR (Jefferson State Air Rifles). So it’s not the same as any that you might buy. I wanted it for hunting so it has the synthetic stock.
There is only one gauge, it reads the regulated pressure. I would rather have the gauge read unregulated reservoir pressure, or two gauges.
I like the rifle but I want it regulated, and I want the side lever. The Huma regulator is $120 so not an expensive upgrade. The JSAR breech is expensive at $400.
These two items double the cost of the Marauder but it’s pretty cool to have it. These are very easy to work on if you need to replace an o-ring.
If you already have one, the one thing I would suggest is a little device called SSG. This greatly reduces air consumption so you get more shots from the same air charge.
I shot my original rifle without the regulator, SSG, or side lever and I liked it a lot.
It doesn’t really need a regulator if it’s tuned well. It doesn’t need the side lever, I just wanted it.
If you are not up to tuning then send it to Scott (Motörhead) west coast or Rich Dudek (Airgun Revisions) east coast.
Hunter
I got better. I have purchased 3 rifles since then.
The 25 M-Rod that I have now I bought used. It has been upgraded with a Hill valve and a regulator. I resealed it when I received it. Then I added a side lever breech from JSAR (Jefferson State Air Rifles). So it’s not the same as any that you might buy. I wanted it for hunting so it has the synthetic stock.
There is only one gauge, it reads the regulated pressure. I would rather have the gauge read unregulated reservoir pressure, or two gauges.
I like the rifle but I want it regulated, and I want the side lever. The Huma regulator is $120 so not an expensive upgrade. The JSAR breech is expensive at $400.
These two items double the cost of the Marauder but it’s pretty cool to have it. These are very easy to work on if you need to replace an o-ring.
If you already have one, the one thing I would suggest is a little device called SSG. This greatly reduces air consumption so you get more shots from the same air charge.
I shot my original rifle without the regulator, SSG, or side lever and I liked it a lot.
It doesn’t really need a regulator if it’s tuned well. It doesn’t need the side lever, I just wanted it.
If you are not up to tuning then send it to Scott (Motörhead) west coast or Rich Dudek (Airgun Revisions) east coast.
Hunter
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Thank you! I’m just starting to look at PCP, I’m lurking in the classifieds because I can’t justify new. I also came here thinking it would be a straightforward conversation and then proceeded to fall down several rabbit holes. I don’t have my sights set on a specific brand or model, but like everything else, it seems like logistics can get complicated. I’m enjoying the education!
As someone who has had skin cancer removed twice, I’m glad you are better!
As someone who has had skin cancer removed twice, I’m glad you are better!
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It's a great affordable gun that will be a keeper even if you move on to more expensive things.
They're all over the classifieds and I wouldn't hesitate to buy one from Airgun Revisions.
I just busted mine out in a very long time (.25) I can't believe how loud this thing is.
They're all over the classifieds and I wouldn't hesitate to buy one from Airgun Revisions.
I just busted mine out in a very long time (.25) I can't believe how loud this thing is.
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It seems to be shooting just fine but is definatly loud in comparison to my Kratos. I've been shooting guns w integral moderation more often than not, so my ears may be too sensitive as well.
Probably on par w the AF Condor tha I shoot
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Similar here. My M-Rod .25 Super Light, JSAR balanced valve, hammer, TSS/SSG, aluminum reservoir, side lever high breech, Tim Hill carbine length shroud, Tim Hill gauge block, custom TP, Huma regulator and it's little brother, the 3622:
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