Barricade Stop aka Verticle grip aka place to stop the sticks

I've become obsessed (kind of) with creating the better / best / bestest ever barricade stop.

Typically i have to scrounge around to find something that will adapt either a pic rail widget, or a UIT rail widget or an Arca rail widget because my airgun collection has all these options... Wondering what all you creative airgunners have come up with
my discipline is HFT so i don't get to use a clamp or screw in type bipod / tripod ---- it has to fall away from the sticks when lifted... dems da rules and it can't be lower than 6 inches below center of barrel forward of the trigger guard. Knee risers or hamsters create other challenges.

I shoot mostly off of trigger sticks.
first is a picture of how i stop my sticks for my HFT TM pistol using kinetic M-lok QD's one on each side of the chassis, second is a pic of how i stop my sticks on my Anschutz 8002 using a PRS UIT type gizmo. Third pic is the hamster/stick stop combo that comes stock with the Crossman HFT Challenger. fourth pic is my Ghost carbine with a Rowan hamster and custom plate to comply with da rules.


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I've become obsessed (kind of) with creating the better / best / bestest ever barricade stop.

Typically i have to scrounge around to find something that will adapt either a pic rail widget, or a UIT rail widget or an Arca rail widget because my airgun collection has all these options... Wondering what all you creative airgunners have come up with
my discipline in HFT so i don't get to use a screw in type bipod/tripod ---- it has to fall away from the sticks when lifted... dems da rules and it can't be lower than 6 inches below center of barrel forward of the trigger guard.

I shoot mostly off of trigger sticks. first is a picture of how i stop my sticks for my HFT TM pistol, second is a pic of how i stop my sticks on my Anschutz 8002 using a PRS UIT type gizmo,


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the below Pic accessory installed on my BRK Commander XR is perhaps the most simple and i like that it keeps the weight off the bottles neck and yet keeps the fill port accesible
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the below Pic accessory is perhaps the most simple and i like that it keeps the weight off the bottles neck and yet keeps the fill port accesible
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but the same type item on my Daystate Revere puts the weight too far forward of center of balance and isn't as stable.
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but the same type item on my Daystate Revere puts the weight too far forward of center of balance and isn't as stable.
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One more - installed on my Deltawolf in Alphawolf clothiing, using pic rail but i had to add some neoprene as i do NOT like the way the sticks would mar the finish of the stock if i used that point with no protection. I could also reverse the direction this accessory faces but that raises the resting point and the gun becomes tippy in the sticks....
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That Anschutz make me think of some sort of plasma rifle in the 20 KW range.
It was a 6 ftlb gun AZ converted to 16 ftlbs but we set to 12 ftlbs for WFTF purposes... it's in a rare precision stock and used to belong to the 2012 olympic gold medal 3 position champion!
 
One more - installed on my Deltawolf in Alphawolf clothiing, using pic rail but i had to add some neoprene as i do NOT like the way the sticks would mar the finish of the stock if i used that point with no protection. I could also reverse the direction this accessory faces but that raises the resting point and the gun becomes tippy in the sticks....tView attachment 435661
The below pic shows how i interfaced a TM1000 in a chassis form using Kinetic 45 degree QD points with M-lok interface - one on each side
Plus i also added an M-Lok barricade stop at the bottom of the chassis. looks cool but in this configuration the gun behaved tippy as not enough weight was below center of gravity; notice also that the verticle stop didn't allow the sticks to snug up to the trigger stick yoke.

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The below pic shows how i interfaced a TM1000 in a chassis form using Kinetic 45 degree QD points with M-lok interface - one on each side
Plus i also added an M-Lok barricade stop at the bottom of the chassis. looks cool but in this configuration the gun behaved tippy as not enough weight was below center of gravity; notice also that the verticle stop didn't allow the sticks to snug up to the trigger stick yoke.

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this Crossman 1720T suffers in the sticks because the pic rail is too far forward of center of gravity and balance point to sit nicely in the sticks.
Ideal weight distribution would suggest the sticks sit right under the forward scope ring.
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It's interesting to see the thought process, and how everybody thinks differently.

I saw a photo of myself in Hunter position once and realized how far back my sticks were. I resolved to move them forward and have since found that having them forward from the trigger as much as possible aides greatly in keeping the reticle from swinging around as much. Wider base=more solid foundation kind of thing. For me anyway.
 
this Crossman 1720T suffers in the sticks because the pic rail is too far forward of center of gravity and balance point to sit nicely in the sticks.
Ideal weight distribution would suggest the sticks sit right under the forward scope ring.
View attachment 435663
So what about using knee risers? or what the Brits call "hamsters" ? I'll let you decide on what happens in these two different configurations and guns
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It's interesting to see the thought process, and how everybody thinks differently.

I saw a photo of myself in Hunter position once and realized how far back my sticks were. I resolved to move them forward and have since found that having them forward from the trigger as much as possible aides greatly in keeping the reticle from swinging around as much. Wider base=more solid foundation kind of thing. For me anyway.
@Franklink picture? i am imagining your trying to create the "biggest" base possible using 3-4 solid points of contact, with your elbows on knees etc?
being a squatty body it's hard for me to get my elbows on my knees to stop the floating around thing.

The Crossman HFT Challenger uses a plastic block which i'm still trying to find the best position for - i' thinking more toward the trigger guard?
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I had to go digging, but this is the photo that made me realize....
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With that gun, it made a world of difference moving the sticks only a couple inches forward, on the tube of the gun, where the stock ends.

These are some other examples though...
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Here are examples of other shooters I hold in high esteem. Same concept though, solid and steady base with elbows rested in knees, and sticks out as far forward as possible.
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Middle and far shooters here ..
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I'm not saying you're doing it wrong. If you've got a system that works, stick to it. Maybe just experiment and see if the crosshairs are more steady for you with sticks further away from the trigger.
 
I had to go digging, but this is the photo that made me realize....
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With that gun, it made a world of difference moving the sticks only a couple inches forward, on the tube of the gun, where the stock ends.

These are some other examples though...
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Here are examples of other shooters I hold in high esteem. Same concept though, solid and steady base with elbows rested in knees, and sticks out as far forward as possible.
View attachment 435671

Middle and far shooters here ..
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I'm not saying you're doing it wrong. If you've got a system that works, stick to it. Maybe just experiment and see if the crosshairs are more steady for you with sticks further away from the trigger.
All great pics! I wonder though if the interface or purchase point between the sticks and the gun isn't just as important as the mean angle(s) for stability.... i'm all about experimenting, but, i like learning from others who have found their "groove". So all this really helps.
i might add at this point - all ya'll with those long lanky body parts "suck" because you can get your elbows on your knees soooo easily while i am having to be part contortionist to come close.
 
@cavedweller , I have zero knowledge of FT shooting and most of my experience comes from BR so take my input with a grain of salt. So in BR discipline we often find, as did @Franklink, that longer is usually better for stability and accuracy. Some CF shooters at our club use the 1" beyond the rifle's balance point principle in their set ups but I see more shooters using longer distances between their front and rear rest positions. When I tried the balance point set up I found the crosshairs are much harder to control and with longer distances between rests there is more stability and less crosshair movement.
 
@cavedweller , I have zero knowledge of FT shooting and most of my experience comes from BR so take my input with a grain of salt. So in BR discipline we often find, as did @Franklink, that longer is usually better for stability and accuracy. Some CF shooters at our club use the 1" beyond the rifle's balance point principle in their set ups but I see more shooters using longer distances between their front and rear rest positions. When I tried the balance point set up I found the crosshairs are much harder to control and with longer distances between rests there is more stability and less crosshair movement.
excellent info!
also with the pics i'm noticing the lower the seat the better?
 
excellent info!
also with the pics i'm noticing the lower the seat the better?

Yep. Low seat makes it much easier to get the elbows to the knees.

The true 5 gallon bucket height makes it a challenge.

You won't see a winner in Hunter class with their elbows swinging around in the breeze (or at least I haven't)
 
Yes, only bipods.

Some local matches offer a class that allows anything (tripods too). But it's not recognized by AAFTA. Typically called "Unlimited" or "Freestyle," the only rule is to keep it under 20fpe. So guys use laser rangefinders and clamp in bipods/tripods, etc. It's not a horribly popular class but is a good option for certain people or situations. Both of my boys started in "freestyle" using tripods b/c it helped them support the rifle. The older one has moved into "Hunter" class using a bipod, but the younger is still using a tripod.