Barrels - choke or no choke?

so what's the difference or benefits from choked or no choke on a rifle barrel? I plan on replacing my "Smooth Twist" ( or what I call "pellet only") on my FX Boss .30 with a Lothar Walther barrel. But I only have 2 choices, choke/no choke. Both have same specs - twist, length, same price, etc.

My intent is to use the rifle for hunting, however I'm very hesitant to use pellets. So I want/need a barrel that can shoot slugs well enough to hunt with. I'm also aware that I will have to get both ends of the barrel machined, because the LW blanks don't have any threads at either end. So here is your chance to inflict some knowledge on someone.
 
Choked barrels regular pellets, unchoked barrels pellets and slugs, you would have to find the right pellet and slug to work out of the barrel just like any gun, but the unchoked barrel will be less slug fussy as a choked barrel would be. 

pellets have a smaller head size and a larger tail size with a hollow area in the tail (the bell), most pellets when loaded in the barrel make loose contact on the head and tight contact at the tail to the rifling and barrel inner surface, so the Barrel makes contact on only 2 points of the pellet, when fired the tail end of the pellet can expand to the air pressure making an airtight seal, the head of the pellet does not expand and guides the pellet through the barrel, it can be a little sloppy bouncing from side to side, once the pellet makes contact to the choke, it straightens the pellet by squeezing it at the 2 points of contact, increasing the pellets accuracy, Slugs make 1 point contact which is the largest mass point of the slug which can be the entire back half of the slug, depending on the slug design, slugs are more solid at the point of contact, so most slugs do not like being squeezed in the choke, thus loosing velocity and accuracy, Unchoked barrels allow slugs to travel through the barrel with out restrictions allowing better velocity and accuracy, some pellet will shoot just fine out of an unchoked barrel. 

or something like that......

p.s. slugs like LW polygon unchoked barrels.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Parrotculler
30 cal slugs will carry a long way. If you are hunting inside 100 yards and small game a 44 gr or 50 gr pellet should do all you need.
I don’t know much on the subject but if you provide a little more information about what you are planning to hunt and at what distances the guys with experience will probably be able to tell you just what you need.
You said you are hesitant to use pellets? Why? 
 
I don't disagree with the great knowledge imparted to you from all above.

I have to say I have seen non choked barrels shoot pellets that fit the L&G's properly and consistently extremely well.

I've seen choked barrels shoot certain slugs phenomenally well at 28-280 yards.

But this age old question is best related to the fact that pellet head size consistency has gone down hill as molds aged. Choked barrels were meant for pellets. The Diabolo design doesn't need a choke if they're fitting the barrel well & crown is right. They self stabilize for the most part but we're way past 10m 560fps, and as I stated, head size is not guaranteed anymore.

Slugs are basically subsonic bullets. So even though I get excellent results with a factory 1:17.7 LW .22 and Griffin pure lead swaged slugs at distances a pellet can't touch, or is meant to, I would definitely pick whatever I wanted my new barrel to be dedicated for. Slugs or pellets. 
Most of us have seen barrels that can shoot both well; but that doesn't mean I want to shoot both from certain platforms or barrels.

Just saying I definitely agree with all above. I just think it's a lot easier if you are dedicated in your usage. And for the record my factory choked .22 was lapped so the choke wasn't as abrupt, and inleade extended for extra long Griffin 32-36 grain RBT slugs. When done correctly this alleviation of an abrupt choke even benefits dedicated pellet barrels. 
Good luck as I'm done in the bathroom for now. 🥸

Edit: My honest opinion on slugs/pellets. I would never have bothered with slugs, but for 4 factors applicable for me & the current AG industry. 

1. I don't enjoy loud airguns or other. I'm not against them in anyway. I just don't like loud anything except maybe a scooter or old Chevy I might be driving 

2. I am willing to shoot tethered, and I have a reliable compressor. 

3. I have a safe area to shoot slugs as far as I desire less than 1/2 mile away.

4. With JSB making heavier .22/.25 25.43 & 33.95 pellets, there's nothing I really need slugs for in my State other than the fact that I have the above 3, and they have allowed me to reach out reliably past 100 yards for groups. Also, Varmint hunting with airguns has been made legal in my current State. Otherwise I don't see what a good airgun in .25 w/ 33.95's can't really do under 100 yards or much further. 

The one huge plus of slugs is casting your own. Unless lead gets banned everywhere. 
 
so what's the difference or benefits from choked or no choke on a rifle barrel? I plan on replacing my "Smooth Twist" ( or what I call "pellet only") on my FX Boss .30 with a Lothar Walther barrel. But I only have 2 choices, choke/no choke. Both have same specs - twist, length, same price, etc.

My intent is to use the rifle for hunting, however I'm very hesitant to use pellets. So I want/need a barrel that can shoot slugs well enough to hunt with. I'm also aware that I will have to get both ends of the barrel machined, because the LW blanks don't have any threads at either end. So here is your chance to inflict some knowledge on someone.

Is your factory 30 cal ST inaccurate?

You should be able to hit at 140-160 yards shooting pellets.

Going through all the trouble installing another barrel to shoot slugs won't guarantee better long distance accuracy.

I would just leave it which is plenty enough power shooting 44gr JSB pellets out to 140-160 yards.
 
What are you hunting? Not pertinent to the choke/no choke, but maybe to the slug vs pellet question.

Shoot what shoot best, for best results 🤪

30 cal slugs will carry a long way. If you are hunting inside 100 yards and small game a 44 gr or 50 gr pellet should do all you need.
I don’t know much on the subject but if you provide a little more information about what you are planning to hunt and at what distances the guys with experience will probably be able to tell you just what you need.
You said you are hesitant to use pellets? Why?

In Florida you must use .30cal or higher to hunt deer or pretty much anything larger than a raccoon, wild pigs are the exception - Florida wildlife commission doesn't care how you kill them. I already have a Kratos .22cal for small game, it shoots slugs just as well as pellets. I would like to use the .30cal on larger game and I'm really hesitant to use a pellet on a deer.
 
so what's the difference or benefits from choked or no choke on a rifle barrel? I plan on replacing my "Smooth Twist" ( or what I call "pellet only") on my FX Boss .30 with a Lothar Walther barrel. But I only have 2 choices, choke/no choke. Both have same specs - twist, length, same price, etc.

My intent is to use the rifle for hunting, however I'm very hesitant to use pellets. So I want/need a barrel that can shoot slugs well enough to hunt with. I'm also aware that I will have to get both ends of the barrel machined, because the LW blanks don't have any threads at either end. So here is your chance to inflict some knowledge on someone.

Is your factory 30 cal ST inaccurate?

You should be able to hit at 140-160 yards shooting pellets.

Going through all the trouble installing another barrel to shoot slugs won't guarantee better long distance accuracy.

I would just leave it which is plenty enough power shooting 44gr JSB pellets out to 140-160 yards.

The rifle in it's present form is extremely accurate with pellets, which is ok if you're hunting feral beer cans or poking holes in paper targets. I have two choices, sell the Boss and buy something like a Kral Bighorn .30cal or find a barrel for the Boss that will shoot pellets and slugs.

Whenever I try to shoot slugs with the smooth twist, I can literally watch them corkscrew down range.
 
so what's the difference or benefits from choked or no choke on a rifle barrel? I plan on replacing my "Smooth Twist" ( or what I call "pellet only") on my FX Boss .30 with a Lothar Walther barrel. But I only have 2 choices, choke/no choke. Both have same specs - twist, length, same price, etc.

My intent is to use the rifle for hunting, however I'm very hesitant to use pellets. So I want/need a barrel that can shoot slugs well enough to hunt with. I'm also aware that I will have to get both ends of the barrel machined, because the LW blanks don't have any threads at either end. So here is your chance to inflict some knowledge on someone.

Is your factory 30 cal ST inaccurate?

You should be able to hit at 140-160 yards shooting pellets.

Going through all the trouble installing another barrel to shoot slugs won't guarantee better long distance accuracy.

I would just leave it which is plenty enough power shooting 44gr JSB pellets out to 140-160 yards.

The rifle in it's present form is extremely accurate with pellets, which is ok if you're hunting feral beer cans or poking holes in paper targets. I have two choices, sell the Boss and buy something like a Kral Bighorn .30cal or find a barrel for the Boss that will shoot pellets and slugs.

Whenever I try to shoot slugs with the smooth twist, I can literally watch them corkscrew down range.

If you're prepared to spend 250-300 or so and want that route I'd say do the Boss with an unchoked .30. With a 28 inch barrel and running 170-180 with a Huma or even a stock one at 170 it'll make near or at 100fpe, maybe smooth the turn on the brass inlet or use one of those new modified ones with the bridge would be better for slugs anyways.

If they can do the crown at the machine shop great but it can be done at home but the leade is important too so maybe a gunsmith would be best. Finding a good shop is an important step the rest is easy.

Also the OD is very close and depending on your bottle (CF or aluminum) it might touch so getting maybe 1mm taken from the OD would be a good idea. I had to remove a small amount from the barrel in one spot to make it not touch the bottle there.

Boss can be setup in other calibers using the cocking parts from a Royale (probe etc) This is a .22 LW poly unchoked and the same OD. It'll be raw steel so you'll need to blue it or something. I used birchwood casey cold blue and it's pretty good. Not as good as a pro bluing job but you can redo it until you're happy with the results and can be touched up anytime with some sanding and another application. It blends very well.

And all this does nothing to the gun itself, you'll always have that smooth twist barrel you can slide back in and it'll be the same as it ever was. Does nothing negative to the gun.

*And make sure you have the crown and work done on the correct end of the barrel it is possible to do, even an unchoked barrel has a muzzle end.

20210312_2044431.1615611400.jpg


20210312_204504.1615611418.jpg

 
What are you hunting? Not pertinent to the choke/no choke, but maybe to the slug vs pellet question.

Shoot what shoot best, for best results
1f92a.svg

30 cal slugs will carry a long way. If you are hunting inside 100 yards and small game a 44 gr or 50 gr pellet should do all you need.
I don’t know much on the subject but if you provide a little more information about what you are planning to hunt and at what distances the guys with experience will probably be able to tell you just what you need.
You said you are hesitant to use pellets? Why?

In Florida you must use .30cal or higher to hunt deer or pretty much anything larger than a raccoon, wild pigs are the exception - Florida game commission doesn't care how you kill them. I already have a Kratos .22cal for small game, it shoots slugs just as well as pellets. I would like to use the .30cal on larger game and I'm really hesitant to use a pellet on a deer.

Lol dont shoot deer with 30cal pellet gun. Big bore bullet shooters are really much different than 30cal 100fpe pellet pushers. Go 357 or bigger with 200fpe+ and keep distances short. 
 
What are you hunting? Not pertinent to the choke/no choke, but maybe to the slug vs pellet question.

Shoot what shoot best, for best results
1f92a.svg

30 cal slugs will carry a long way. If you are hunting inside 100 yards and small game a 44 gr or 50 gr pellet should do all you need.
I don’t know much on the subject but if you provide a little more information about what you are planning to hunt and at what distances the guys with experience will probably be able to tell you just what you need.
You said you are hesitant to use pellets? Why?

In Florida you must use .30cal or higher to hunt deer or pretty much anything larger than a raccoon, wild pigs are the exception - Florida game commission doesn't care how you kill them. I already have a Kratos .22cal for small game, it shoots slugs just as well as pellets. I would like to use the .30cal on larger game and I'm really hesitant to use a pellet on a deer.

Lol dont shoot deer with 30cal pellet gun. Big bore bullet shooters are really much different than 30cal 100fpe pellet pushers. Go 357 or bigger with 200fpe+ and keep distances short.

Florida deer aren't like the deer in the rest of NA I think as far as size goes. .30 well placed will do the job IMO. It's not like a 275lb whitetail.

They average 100-125lbs. 
 
What are you hunting? Not pertinent to the choke/no choke, but maybe to the slug vs pellet question.

Shoot what shoot best, for best results
1f92a.svg

30 cal slugs will carry a long way. If you are hunting inside 100 yards and small game a 44 gr or 50 gr pellet should do all you need.
I don’t know much on the subject but if you provide a little more information about what you are planning to hunt and at what distances the guys with experience will probably be able to tell you just what you need.
You said you are hesitant to use pellets? Why?

In Florida you must use .30cal or higher to hunt deer or pretty much anything larger than a raccoon, wild pigs are the exception - Florida game commission doesn't care how you kill them. I already have a Kratos .22cal for small game, it shoots slugs just as well as pellets. I would like to use the .30cal on larger game and I'm really hesitant to use a pellet on a deer.

Lol dont shoot deer with 30cal pellet gun. Big bore bullet shooters are really much different than 30cal 100fpe pellet pushers. Go 357 or bigger with 200fpe+ and keep distances short.

Florida deer aren't like the deer in the rest of NA I think as far as size goes. .30 well placed will do the job IMO. It's not like a 275lb whitetail.

They average 100-125lbs.

Yes but the thing is that with bigger game animals you cant really rely on having brainshot, spineshot etc you want to have extra to be ethically responsible hunter and dispatch game animals with proper vital shot and without needing to track it down possibly for hours. Using under powered rigs dosent really do anyone good. Not for animal, hunter or industry. 
 
so what's the difference or benefits from choked or no choke on a rifle barrel? I plan on replacing my "Smooth Twist" ( or what I call "pellet only") on my FX Boss .30 with a Lothar Walther barrel. But I only have 2 choices, choke/no choke. Both have same specs - twist, length, same price, etc.

My intent is to use the rifle for hunting, however I'm very hesitant to use pellets. So I want/need a barrel that can shoot slugs well enough to hunt with. I'm also aware that I will have to get both ends of the barrel machined, because the LW blanks don't have any threads at either end. So here is your chance to inflict some knowledge on someone.

Is your factory 30 cal ST inaccurate?

You should be able to hit at 140-160 yards shooting pellets.

Going through all the trouble installing another barrel to shoot slugs won't guarantee better long distance accuracy.

I would just leave it which is plenty enough power shooting 44gr JSB pellets out to 140-160 yards.

The rifle in it's present form is extremely accurate with pellets, which is ok if you're hunting feral beer cans or poking holes in paper targets. I have two choices, sell the Boss and buy something like a Kral Bighorn .30cal or find a barrel for the Boss that will shoot pellets and slugs.

Whenever I try to shoot slugs with the smooth twist, I can literally watch them corkscrew down range.

If you're prepared to spend 250-300 or so and want that route I'd say do the Boss with an unchoked .30. With a 28 inch barrel and running 170-180 with a Huma or even a stock one at 170 it'll make near or at 100fpe, maybe smooth the turn on the brass inlet or use one of those new modified ones with the bridge would be better for slugs anyways.

If they can do the crown at the machine shop great but it can be done at home but the leade is important too so maybe a gunsmith would be best. Finding a good shop is an important step the rest is easy.

Also the OD is very close and depending on your bottle (CF or aluminum) it might touch so getting maybe 1mm taken from the OD would be a good idea. I had to remove a small amount from the barrel in one spot to make it not touch the bottle there.

Boss can be setup in other calibers using the cocking parts from a Royale (probe etc) This is a .22 LW poly unchoked and the same OD. It'll be raw steel so you'll need to blue it or something. I used birchwood casey cold blue and it's pretty good. Not as good as a pro bluing job but you can redo it until you're happy with the results and can be touched up anytime with some sanding and another application. It blends very well.

And all this does nothing to the gun itself, you'll always have that smooth twist barrel you can slide back in and it'll be the same as it ever was. Does nothing negative to the gun.

*And make sure you have the crown and work done on the correct end of the barrel it is possible to do, even an unchoked barrel has a muzzle end.

20210312_2044431.1615611400.jpg


20210312_204504.1615611418.jpg

Well, the way I look at it, if I sell the Boss I'll lose about $400. Even though I bought it new 4/5 months ago, it will still have to be sold as used. If I get a replacement barrel for it I'll have spent about $400 ( when you ad up the costs - buying the barrel, machine work, bluing ). So no matter what, I'm out about $400ish.

what is this crown thing? I have never had to replace a barrel on anything I've owned, so I've never had to think about it. 

Thanks for the reminder on barrel to bottle clearance, I had over looked that. The stock barrel is .57" and the LW replacement barrel is .67" so that definately makes sense.
 
I received my LW barrel today. Now I just need to find a machine shop willing to do the work for me, one shop not far from me manufactures AR uppers w/barrels and another shop makes reloadable shells for grenade launchers ( man I love living in Florida ). wish me luck.

Haha awesome,

I'd take the brass inlet off your Boss barrel and bring the barrel with you if you're shopping around for machine shops. Make sure they know the barrel blank even if unchoked has a muzzle end. I believe the end with the caliber stamped in it is the breech end. But I would verify with LW (its important)