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Tuning Barrel Removal HW35E Question

Yeah just crack the barrel open ever so slightly, remove the pivot nut on the right side, then the pivot bolt from the left side. Slowly angle the barrel assembly out to remove the cocking lever from the piston guide while holding the latch (barrel release?) in place. It's spring loaded if memory serves so it can pop out and send the spring flying. Also make sure not to lose the little barrel shims/washers on either side of the breech block.
 
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Yeah just crack the barrel open ever so slightly, remove the pivot nut on the right side, then the pivot bolt from the left side. Slowly angle the barrel assembly out to remove the cocking lever from the piston guide while holding the latch (barrel release?) in place. It's spring loaded if memory serves so it can pop out and send the spring flying. Also make sure not to lose the little barrel shims/washers on either side of the breech block.
Great, it looked like it would be okay, I didn't want to do something stupid though LOL

Thank
Z
 
"Have to" is a bit of a stretch. You're definitely supposed to but you can give it a little wiggle and push to get the pivot bolt lined back up properly.
You can but I wouldn't recommend it. Other than the 35 the other Weihrauchs have spring tension from either the detent or mainspring on the pivot bolt in any position. Yes you can bully it a little and get the pivot bolt in. However it's more difficult to position the barrel and shims without damaging them. Worse is the the right side fork has a 7mm fine thread that could easily very get damaged while threading the pivot bolt under tension. If those fork threads get damaged you'll be buying a very expensive compression tube. I hesitate to mention but you can remove the barrel with the gun cocked. This is VERY DANGEROUS and you risk great harm to yourself and the rifle. I only mention it because someone may suggest it. Don't do this it's frigging stupid. It's best to remove the main spring tension. Don't bugger up a fine piece of Germany machinery being lazy.
 
You can but I wouldn't recommend it. Other than the 35 the other Weihrauchs have spring tension from either the detent or mainspring on the pivot bolt in any position. Yes you can bully it a little and get the pivot bolt in. However it's more difficult to position the barrel and shims without damaging them. Worse is the the right side fork has a 7mm fine thread that could easily very get damaged while threading the pivot bolt under tension. If those fork threads get damaged you'll be buying a very expensive compression tube. I hesitate to mention but you can remove the barrel with the gun cocked. This is VERY DANGEROUS and you risk great harm to yourself and the rifle. I only mention it because someone may suggest it. Don't do this it's frigging stupid. It's best to remove the main spring tension. Don't bugger up a fine piece of Germany machinery being lazy.
You're right and I should have kept my trap shut. It takes all of a couple extra minutes to just do it the right way.
 
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You can but I wouldn't recommend it. Other than the 35 the other Weihrauchs have spring tension from either the detent or mainspring on the pivot bolt in any position. Yes you can bully it a little and get the pivot bolt in. However it's more difficult to position the barrel and shims without damaging them. Worse is the the right side fork has a 7mm fine thread that could easily very get damaged while threading the pivot bolt under tension. If those fork threads get damaged you'll be buying a very expensive compression tube. I hesitate to mention but you can remove the barrel with the gun cocked. This is VERY DANGEROUS and you risk great harm to yourself and the rifle. I only mention it because someone may suggest it. Don't do this it's frigging stupid. It's best to remove the main spring tension. Don't bugger up a fine piece of Germany machinery being lazy.
No I wouldn't think of cocking the gun. But I do appreciate the warning.

Thanks
Z