• The AGN App is ready! Search "Airgun Nation" in your App store. To compliment this new tech we've assigned the "Threads" Feed & "Dark" Mode. To revert back click HERE.

Barrel Polishing Question?

Great question.... one inch groups at 50 yards with 14.3 CPD and .75 inch with AA 16 grain. The crosman pellets look the worst when pushed through the breach and I want to clean that up.
For the most part I love how this gun shoots (8 groundhogs, one raccoon and about 15 starlings since April, up to 65 yards) but I think I can make it better.
 
thank you, this was very interesting discussion
Agreed!
Besides I'm in the same boat as far as the breech rifling shoulder.
20211101_221205_IMG_1654.PNG
 
I have actually formed cratex bits into reamers for leades that came out beautiful. I put a drill in a vice, put the bit in the drill and use a file to slowly work down the bit to the size and taper I want and then use it in the barrel, carefully. The cratex bits come in many different grits and shapes. You can find them on Amazon. This has to be done really patiently, and has mechanically fixed has you can, but it can work great if you take your time. Setup is everything, actual work time on the barrel is very short. Anything past the leade itself is not for these bits. I haven't tackled anything down barrel as severe as your problem but I would listen to Motorhead and Nervoustrig advice real closely.
Definitely possible. But sounds like you'd need a drill press in perfect working order. Otherwise, your bits will come out lopsided.

Agreed!
Besides I'm in the same boat as far as the breech rifling shoulder.
View attachment 372090
I have some barrels like this. I believe at least one of my Crosman LW barrels is. And at least one of my snow peak barrels is like this, too. Any that are like this are dead accurate. In which case... Don't fix what aint broke!!

Any barrels I have that are bad have either been binned or never get used.
 
Definitely possible. But sounds like you'd need a drill press in perfect working order. Otherwise, your bits will come out lopsided.


I have some barrels like this. I believe at least one of my Crosman LW barrels is. And at least one of my snow peak barrels is like this, too. Any that are like this are dead accurate. In which case... Don't fix what aint broke!!

Any barrels I have that are bad have either been binned or never get used.

Mine isn't accurate and I beleive it's because the pelket is damaged by the rifling gouges.


Screenshot_20230706_104635_Gallery.jpg
 
That looks like a standard pellet to me. The head is fully engaged, good engraving on the head, the skirt is of course unscathed but its not been fired so no flare yet.
That is not what a pellet that has only been chambered normaly looks like. I get pieces of lead out of the chamber when do this test.
I have to hit the bolt with the palm of my hand, sometimes twice to close it.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Firewalker
That is not what a pellet that has only been chambered normaly looks like. I get pieces of lead out of the chamber when do this test.
I have to hit the bolt with the palm of my hand, sometimes twice to close it.

I think something like this would be the best tool for ramping the chamber lands.

 
  • Like
Reactions: .20calguy
Agreed!
Besides I'm in the same boat as far as

My million dollar question is how was the accuracy before all this. I had 2 avengers and have a jts Airacuda max and those cheap China barrels would/will shoot the nuts 🥜 off a gnat at 50 yards.
Question answered above for $349.99
 
  • Haha
Reactions: Airgun-hobbyist
  • Like
Reactions: Painterman
I’ve used these guys for lots of powdered burner stuff
Rent , no need to by something you are only going to use once. Price is around $40.00

 
I have a .22 Avenger barrel that is very rough where the rifling begins at the breach. I did polish and recrown and pushed several pellets by hand, the first 2.5 inches of the rifling are rather tight as well. I polished with a bore mop and JB and put a lot of extra effort in the tight spot including using a drill (with mop).
I'm thinking of using the back end of a drill bit, grinding a taper and polishing like a recrown. I'm not to concerned about being tight at the breach but this sharp edge must go.
Thanks in advance for any help.

Painterman... aka David from Indy
Your using J-B bore cleaning compound, which is more of a cleaning agent. May I suggest after using J-Bcc you clean your barrel with Ballistol, then use either J-B Bore Bright or Flitz. Both are polishing agents.
Don't stop half way through the process.
 
I have a .22 Avenger barrel that is very rough where the rifling begins at the breach. I did polish and recrown and pushed several pellets by hand, the first 2.5 inches of the rifling are rather tight as well. I polished with a bore mop and JB and put a lot of extra effort in the tight spot including using a drill (with mop).
I'm thinking of using the back end of a drill bit, grinding a taper and polishing like a recrown. I'm not to concerned about being tight at the breach but this sharp edge must go.
Thanks in advance for any help.

Painterman... aka David from Indy
That tight spot is you choke.
 
If you're feeling adventurous, you could "re-chamber" it. I've chambered a few blanks in .22 using a tapered #3 pin reamer. Important that you find the diameter on the reamer that you want your, let's say "free bore," to be, maybe .225". grind down anything larger than that on diamond wheel, and insert and ream so that the .225" portion clears the rifling, and the taper will create a nice leade-in sloped into the rifling. I've found that you need to clear at least until the end of the transfer port, because if the pellet is being re-sized/bitten by the rifling, the edge of the TP, will gouge the pellet/ slug. Concentricity is key, best done in a lathe, but again, little adventure by hand or drill press haha. And of course you finish with your polishing to remove any burs or rough cut edges.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Painterman
Good advice all around. My motto, (having worked on powder and pellet guns for years), is never rotate anythng in the bore. That's barrels 101. Second, if a rifle has a bad barrel, you need to determine if is slight ie burrs, light roughness, or if it needs replaced. Most barrelss, especially soft airgun barrels, if too rough, just need to be replaced. Not saying you can't improve them some, but bad is bad. IF you determine the fix is polishing, then I advise only using something like flitz or JB, and on a lead slug, but it can be done with tight patches if you get the hang of it.. I once had a 7mm0-08 Tikka, that just wouldn't group for sour apples. It would do 2-3" at 100 yards all day long. I decided to either fix or ruin it, so I started with a very tight felt slug and JB. After every 100 or so pulls thru, I would clean it and shoot it. After a while, probably something like 1000 passes, it would shoot 1" groups, and I stopped. I have also tried it on other guns and had the reverse effect, they shot worse, that's when it's time for a new barrel.
Barrel making and polishing is as much art as science. I'm sure barrel makers would say, it's all about tolerances, they're either there or they're not and if they're not, there's not a lot you can do.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TonyJ
I love the statement " make it better" very few times does that workout .
FWIW, my experience has trended the opposite way. Can’t say I’ve ever had a barrel do worse after working on it, occasionally not much better, and usually noticeably better.