If you bend it yourself then you won't have to exchange it because your problem will already be fixed.
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Barrel droop with open sights?
- Thread starter fa2ality
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Can it mess with anything if it didn't have a barrel droop and I bend it?
And what point should I bend? mid barrel or where the barrel and barrel block joins?
And what point should I bend? mid barrel or where the barrel and barrel block joins?
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When the rear sight is installed without washers and adjusted to it's lowest setting, use a decent caliper and measure the distance between the top of the bore to the top of the rear sight blade. Now do the same with the front sight then compare the two measurements. You may have to take multiple measurements on each end then add them to get close to the overall height. If close to each other the impact at 15 yards should be close to the same if not a little higher (not 5" low).
A comment was made earlier ( "Yes, 13 or 14 yards and no it doesn't go lower and lower. I know that because when I hit the 200 yards can it hits around it never drops drastically." ) and that just don't make sense to me -- if it's 5" low at close range it would continue to get worse. Something else is at play here if no adjustments are made and it hits close at 200 yards.
Back in the 80's I shot IHMSA (big bore silhouette) and at that time only irons could be used. I learned the typical flat front sight could do quite well if dimentions were proper in both front and rear allowing enough light on the sides to keep things centered and the front wide enough it was easy to see the top of both sights were level. I never saw a pointed front insert like yours until I got into airguns. I tried using one and just didn't think it would come close to the conventional square type insert because of so much space around the pointed insert. I had problems seeing where the tip of the point would meet the top of the rear sight but I have to admit my eyes are nowhere close to what they used to be and I see many airgun shooters like that style. You might consider a different front sight insert to see if the same things occur.
Good luck....
A comment was made earlier ( "Yes, 13 or 14 yards and no it doesn't go lower and lower. I know that because when I hit the 200 yards can it hits around it never drops drastically." ) and that just don't make sense to me -- if it's 5" low at close range it would continue to get worse. Something else is at play here if no adjustments are made and it hits close at 200 yards.
Back in the 80's I shot IHMSA (big bore silhouette) and at that time only irons could be used. I learned the typical flat front sight could do quite well if dimentions were proper in both front and rear allowing enough light on the sides to keep things centered and the front wide enough it was easy to see the top of both sights were level. I never saw a pointed front insert like yours until I got into airguns. I tried using one and just didn't think it would come close to the conventional square type insert because of so much space around the pointed insert. I had problems seeing where the tip of the point would meet the top of the rear sight but I have to admit my eyes are nowhere close to what they used to be and I see many airgun shooters like that style. You might consider a different front sight insert to see if the same things occur.
Good luck....
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Thank you all for your input, I think the problem was pellet kind/weight.
JSB doesn't exist where I live so I went and got a tin of H&N field target trophy and that fixed the low shots, maybe the gun didn't like the heavy 21.14 grains barracuda.
JSB doesn't exist where I live so I went and got a tin of H&N field target trophy and that fixed the low shots, maybe the gun didn't like the heavy 21.14 grains barracuda.
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Spring guns operate in a narrow regime of efficiency. Excessively heavy pellets can put them off their optimal curve and you get loopy results. It sounds like you found the problem when you went to a more mainstream (for spring guns) pellet weight. Don't get me wrong. Baracudas are very fine pellets but they do come in a range of weights and sizes.
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Barrel bending is routine procedure for springers. I have a Diana 36 that shoots about 18inches low at 10 yards if the barrel's radial axis is in-line with the radial axis of the compression tube. So, I had to bend it to get it to shoot high enough that I could sight it in. Yes the barrel has a noticeable bend to it now. Yet the gun is very accurate. A Diana 36 is not a low quality gun; these things happen sometimes. When I have to bend a barrel I try to make the bend as close to the breach block as possible so that the rest of the barrel is mostly straight. But that's up to personal preference. There's various ways to bend a barrel. I use a manual hydraulic log splitter. https://snowjoe.com/products/sun-joe-10-ton-hydraulic-log-splitter Since I split wood for my wood stove, I had one of these splitters anyways. You can get a very precise barrel bend very quickly with it; however, I must say that the log splitter is way more powerful than is necessary to bend a barrel. I know a professional airgun tuner who says he beats the barrels with a rubber mallet to bend a barrel. You may have heard of him; his username over at GTA is Motorhead.
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as far as i know barrel droop with open sights is not a thing, it is when you put a scope on it you have droop
now the front sight take a 15.9or16mm insert you can find them on Eaby for 6 bucks or so
now with all the tape and washers you need to start over and to do that you need to know what the front sight height needs to be with the rear sight set in about the middle setting
first measure the height of the post as it is
now take the front globe sight off and make one out of a piece of 4mm wood and tape it one, you are looking for a workable height and when you have that you will see if a new shorter insert will even solve the problem
i have a pistol right now i'm fighting the same problem
now instead of washers how about a wedge made out aluminum or wood painted black or brass all materials that can be filed to shape with some time
until you know the correct front sight height that will work with the rare you will be in the world of tape and washers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/332403537404?hash=item4d64cb75fc:g:DPQAAOSwXY5ZS9Bc
could the barrel be bent i do not know but you said it was group well
*****one other thing take the breech seal out and see if there are any shim behind it, the breech block looks like it not sitting flat and is being pushed down****
now the front sight take a 15.9or16mm insert you can find them on Eaby for 6 bucks or so
now with all the tape and washers you need to start over and to do that you need to know what the front sight height needs to be with the rear sight set in about the middle setting
first measure the height of the post as it is
now take the front globe sight off and make one out of a piece of 4mm wood and tape it one, you are looking for a workable height and when you have that you will see if a new shorter insert will even solve the problem
i have a pistol right now i'm fighting the same problem
now instead of washers how about a wedge made out aluminum or wood painted black or brass all materials that can be filed to shape with some time
until you know the correct front sight height that will work with the rare you will be in the world of tape and washers
https://www.ebay.com/itm/332403537404?hash=item4d64cb75fc:g:DPQAAOSwXY5ZS9Bc
could the barrel be bent i do not know but you said it was group well
*****one other thing take the breech seal out and see if there are any shim behind it, the breech block looks like it not sitting flat and is being pushed down****
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you could paint the washers flat black ? if you nut and bolt the washers in a stack then put in a drill and sand the round edges flat it would not look so much like a stack of washers ?
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I have a Beeman Original 6, one of the Diana made break barrel Guiss system target pistols. Front sight is a big plastic globe sight. Sometime over the last 40 year, the globe has cracked. My thinking is it is a design flaw, as you literally have to use it to pivot the barrel down to cock. I finally found an all metal globe sight that would fit the small dovetail grooves. Turns out is that it is a just a little too high, making the gun shoot low. Not enough adjustment in the rear to compensate. so I cut some off the front sight post. It does look a little strange sighting as the post top in not centered in the globe, but it does shoot good this way. I slowly adjusted the sight height down with the rear sight adjusted just one the high side of the center of it's travel so I have some adjustment if I use different pellets or different range.
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This is almost appropriate:
I have a Ruger Mini14 Ranch Rifle.
Early model.
Anyone familiar with those rifles know that the rear sights are a joke.
A tiny piece of metal that is hard to adjust.
So I bought a new rear sight and it is much higher than the factory blade with the rifle shooting very low at 25 yards.
I lowered the rear sight as far as it would go and, with a metal file, started shaving off the front sight to bring the group higher.
VOILA.
Now with the rear sight DOWN as far as it will go and the front sight shaved off, the .223 shoots dead-on at 25 yards (I would use 10 yards for an air rifle/pistol) and I have the full range of adjustment of the rear sight available for longer shots..
So, get rid of those washers under your rear sight and start making the front sight shorter..
I have a Ruger Mini14 Ranch Rifle.
Early model.
Anyone familiar with those rifles know that the rear sights are a joke.
A tiny piece of metal that is hard to adjust.
So I bought a new rear sight and it is much higher than the factory blade with the rifle shooting very low at 25 yards.
I lowered the rear sight as far as it would go and, with a metal file, started shaving off the front sight to bring the group higher.
VOILA.
Now with the rear sight DOWN as far as it will go and the front sight shaved off, the .223 shoots dead-on at 25 yards (I would use 10 yards for an air rifle/pistol) and I have the full range of adjustment of the rear sight available for longer shots..
So, get rid of those washers under your rear sight and start making the front sight shorter..
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The height of the bottom of the notch on the rear sight must be the same height as the top of the post on the front sight. That's your problem not barrel droop. Replace front globe for a shorter one. Or put an aperture sight on the dovetails on the receiver.
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