Tuning Barrel cleaning results

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J

jaird

Member
Aug 24, 2019
248
4
VA, United States
I have a Kalibr Cricket II Tactical in 30 caliber. Removed the shroud to clean the barrel. Using a patch worm, pulled several dry patches through and got black. Next, used Balistol and got medium brown patches. Dry patches next and got medium brown to light brown results. I have another air rifle from a different manufacturer and get the same results. Is this normal and if it is, what causes the brown color?

Thanks 
 
My suggestion, don't worry about the color, and dont try to clean it until you see white patches, it really shouldn't be that clean. Assuming you aren't seeing chunks of lead in the patch, pull 4 or 5 through with your preferred cleaner, then a dry one, and call it done. If the barrel has no rough machining that's causing fouling, it should clean that easily. And don't clean it until you see accuracy fall off. I broke that rule recently, and it took about 40 shots to get it back. 
 
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I've studied up on this (a lot to digest here and on the tube), cleaned a dozen new and used guns in the last few years. Pleased with the results from a good cleaning with Mp7, nylon brush, dry patches, Mp7, dry, Ballistol, dry, then (ever so gently) Flitz on a bore mop, dry, Mp7, Ballistol. Might take more runs with the Flitz if you are shocked on the first pass. Finally some car wax for good measure. 

A lot of bother right out of the gate, but then they shoot better and are easier to clean.






 
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The argus never did give me a clean one. Finally said "good enuff" .. It was like trying to wipe while your still poopin..
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Or you could have said “ how clean does the toilet paper need to be? “. The answer is the same . It’s up to the individual to decide and then does it matter followed by it’s just going to get dirty the next shot fired.
You know the more I think about this the more I see in common with the large bowl and barrels Range accuracy shot count I guess twist rate. About the only difference is scopes are hard to mount on your back side 😎

The point being ( I guess) you want the clean but not harm the tube. Which ever one you’re worried about 
 
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Interesting, all this talk about barrel cleaning methods, the color of the patch, etc. But unless I missed it, no one has mentioned how the darn thing shoots! I think that should always guide your cleaning activity. If it shoots, leave it alone, if it needs cleaning, take a minimalist approach until accuracy is restored. Barrels leave the maker with various types of lube or preservative, or not, it varies. Some of that stuff will transfer color to a patch long after the barrel is clean enough to shoot well.
 
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Not a pcp guy so curious here...dont you guys lube your pellets?? I wouldvthink the lube would keep the barrel from oxidising... I am a springer guy and do shoot lubed pellets, I use beeswax furniture polish, the beeswax is what does the trick. Back in the 80's I was at a world match and had the pleasure of shooting with a number of the British shooters. They put me on to the beeswax trick. Never looked back, never have had a barrel issue, never any brown rust, and so easy to clean the barrel when the time comes. Guess I thought most all airgunners used some type of pellet lube to prevent any kind of barrel rust/ fouling issues.
 
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I chimed in here, because i had the same brown patch on my new rig from KalibrGun. Wanted the OP to know it wasn't just him. I lube pellets light with WD-40. New gun, brown patch, i'm sure it will come clean with time. However, i spent a good bit of time with the patch worm trying to get it as clean as i could before i started shooting it. Finally said "good enuff". :)
 
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There is another commonality between barrels and distal end of the alimentary canal. EVERYONE HAS ONE. Opinion that is about cleaning. Logic tells me that you can over do a good thing and I would suspect that air rifle barrels are more prone to damage then let’s say a center fire rifle barrel ( generally agreed?) They also are not subjected to the same environment as a powder burner so again logic tells me (and I’ll admit my logic is not always correct) they should not need cleaning that often or to the same degree of thoroughness. Over the years i’ve taken to doing less cleaning rather then more on even my center fire guns but I only clean my air rifle tubes if accuracy drops off. I like the idea of pellet lube ( again logic). All that being said we’re all shooting pellets at higher velocities and that’s going to tend to lay down crap quicker .,More wiping necessary (?) 

Cleaning always an interesting and hot topic. I like nylon brushes and on the center fire (223) guns I think I can feel how the brush slides thru the barrel while cleaning. When it feels right I dry patch and I’m done. 

I will admit I don’t know much about air rifle barrels but I think that less is more . I have a bore scope and I think that’s helpful 
 
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Not a pcp guy so curious here...dont you guys lube your pellets?? I wouldvthink the lube would keep the barrel from oxidising... I am a springer guy and do shoot lubed pellets, I use beeswax furniture polish, the beeswax is what does the trick. Back in the 80's I was at a world match and had the pleasure of shooting with a number of the British shooters. They put me on to the beeswax trick. Never looked back, never have had a barrel issue, never any brown rust, and so easy to clean the barrel when the time comes. Guess I thought most all airgunners used some type of pellet lube to prevent any kind of barrel rust/ fouling issues.
Click to expand...

How do you apply the bees wax?
 
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Not a pcp guy so curious here...dont you guys lube your pellets?? I wouldvthink the lube would keep the barrel from oxidising... I am a springer guy and do shoot lubed pellets, I use beeswax furniture polish, the beeswax is what does the trick. Back in the 80's I was at a world match and had the pleasure of shooting with a number of the British shooters. They put me on to the beeswax trick. Never looked back, never have had a barrel issue, never any brown rust, and so easy to clean the barrel when the time comes. Guess I thought most all airgunners used some type of pellet lube to prevent any kind of barrel rust/ fouling issues.
Click to expand...

How do you apply the bees wax?
Click to expand...

It comes in an aerosol spray, I get it thru "Annies" craft store. Our furniture is made by Amish craftsman from Charm Ohio and they told me wherevto find it. I used to orderbit from England but shipping became prohibitive. Anyway I use a clean cotton cloth (old T shirts work great) and spray a dollop of beeswax on the cloth, add a small fistfull of pellets and grab each end of the cloth and tumble by raising and lowering each end of the cloth. This tumbles the pellets thru the beeswax gently without any damage. After a few minutes the pellets will all be coated without any buildup in the skirt. I use a patch on a pull thru with a shot of beeswax on it. Beeswax cuts itself and wont buildup makes barrel cleaning a breeze once the barrel is coated from shooting coated pellets. No nasty smell, no sticky feel on your fingers, pellets do not stick together, beeswax will not harm any seals or O rings, and great for your wood stock!!! I use it to seal my wood stock on the inside so there is no swelling or shrinking from humidity. On my springers, there has been notable improvement in accuracy when going with beeswax. Actually there are no negative complaints from anyone that has tried this stuff. I have boxes of CP 7.9 pellets from days gone by that have been treated with beeswax and show no sign of oxidising.... All I can say is try it, you wont hurt anything, the stuff is all natural, compatible as a moisture protectant on metal as well as wood, and the cost is very low.
 
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