Has anyone done this ? it seems to check all the boxes for an acceptable lubricant for spring guns? I wouldn't use it for chamber lube but for everything else it seems almost perfect?
Gotta love the inadvertent censorship here lol. I had to read it twice before it clickedthe first question you have to ask yourself is would the Alphabet org stay where you wanted it to stay and the answer is HELL NO
but go ahead keep some rags handy
I'm going to use it just because of what you saidthe first question you have to ask yourself is would the Alphabet org stay where you wanted it to stay and the answer is HELL NO
but go ahead keep some rags handy
The blue stuff RWS sells as spring oil is just as runny though and it costs $14+ for a tiny bottle?Way to liquidy. You want something thicker like bearing grease so it holds onto the spring
I see what you're talking about but I dont know that I would use that for a spring. You can get a lifetime supply of grease at the auto parts store for $10. Assuming you have properly fitted guides you really don't need a whole lot. A light coat will get you there.The blue stuff RWS sells as spring oil is just as runny though and it costs $14+ for a tiny bottle?
You must have to remove the mainspring to distribute the grease evenly right?I see what you're talking about but I dont know that I would use that for a spring. You can get a lifetime supply of grease at the auto parts store for $10. Assuming you have properly fitted guides you really don't need a whole lot. A light coat will get you there.
Correct. Its a one and done kind of thing. Open the gun up, lube the spring, and then lightly lube your piston and seal with whatever your preferred lube is there. I'm a simple man and just stick to moly paste there. After that you're good to go for 10k shots or so. Tearing down most guns and doing this is a 10 minute process once you've done it a few times. I've even installed a PG4 in a 97K for a friend in the field in under 20min. Your 34 is much simpler.You must have to remove the mainspring to distribute the grease evenly right?
I don't have a spring compressor thoughCorrect. Its a one and done kind of thing. Open the gun up, lube the spring, and then lightly lube your piston and seal with whatever your preferred lube is there. I'm a simple man and just stick to moly paste there. After that you're good to go for 10k shots or so. Tearing down most guns and doing this is a 10 minute process once you've done it a few times. I've even installed a PG4 in a 97K for a friend in the field in under 20min. Your 34 is much simpler.
Neither do I! Never needed one. For your 34 its pretty simple. Drill a hole on a block of wood for the safety to sit in.I don't have a spring compressor though![]()
Try TUNE IN A TUBE. It's developed just for a mainspring. Works, and won't diesel. Orv.You must have to remove the mainspring to distribute the grease evenly right?
I just had my 34 out of the stock I see what you mean about placing it on the edge of a table looks pretty straight forward thanks for the tip.If it’s a 34 it’s the easiest spring rifle to take apart, and yes I own a TX200. I stopped using a compressor on 34’s as I had to take the scope off. Just lean into it on the edge of a table (so not to mess up the safety) and slowly let up. It’s not like when you push out the second trigger pin the rifle is going to launch thru the ceiling. A compressor on a 34 is a total waste of time. I even do the same for the RWS 350 but have someone push out the trigger pins while I lean into the rifle on the edge of the table. That said I have done this solo.
I don't mean to sound stupid, but is the "first" pin the one closest to the rear of the rifle or the other one? Also, what diameter punch do I need?Neither do I! Never needed one. For your 34 its pretty simple. Drill a hole on a block of wood for the safety to sit in.
-Take the stock off
-Punch out both pins and leave the punch in the hole for the second pin to keep everything held together.
-Place the gun vertically on that block of wood with the safety inside the hole so it doesn't snap
-Press the gun down into the wood until you feel the pressure release from the punch. It will not take much. The 34 isn't under a ton of preload. That being said, keep your face out line of the tube and barrel in case you slip. It is still under enough preload to hurt if you do.
-Remove the punch and slowly let off on the downward pressure.
-Congrats! Your 34 is now apart and you have access to the spring. To remove the piston, remove the barrel and don't lose the two washers on either side. There is a pin inside that pivot hole once the screw is out. Lightly tap that out and the barrel comes right out. Cocking the barrel slightly will make removing the screw and pin/guide easier.
To reinstall everything press the gun back down onto the trigger assembly (with piston and barrel installed) and a punch through the first pin hole to temporarily hold everything together. Make sure the safety spring isn't visible in the second hole (T06 trigger) and then insert the factory retaining pin. Remove the punch and then reinstall the front pin.
Fin.
Forward most pin closer to the barrelI don't mean to sound stupid, but is the "first" pin the one closest to the rear of the rifle or the other one?
@Buddy2023 Hey man ask those questions. I think it’s better to feel like you sound stupid to a bunch of strangers than to screw up your gun or injure yourself.I don't mean to sound stupid, but is the "first" pin the one closest to the rear of the rifle or the other one? Also, what diameter punch do I need?