Has anyone done this ? it seems to check all the boxes for an acceptable lubricant for spring guns? I wouldn't use it for chamber lube but for everything else it seems almost perfect?
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Other Automatic Transmission fluid to lubricate main spring
- Thread starter Buddy2023
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the first question you have to ask yourself is would the Alphabet org stay where you wanted it to stay and the answer is HELL NO
but go ahead keep some rags handy
but go ahead keep some rags handy
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Way to liquidy. You want something thicker like bearing grease so it holds onto the spring.
I've recieved a few guns from the classifieds with a clear-ish grease on the spring and I'm curious as to what it is. Super Lube maybe? If anyone has an answer for that I'd appreciate it.
I've recieved a few guns from the classifieds with a clear-ish grease on the spring and I'm curious as to what it is. Super Lube maybe? If anyone has an answer for that I'd appreciate it.
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And I always have rags handy ALWAYS! 
The blue stuff RWS sells as spring oil is just as runny though and it costs $14+ for a tiny bottle?
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I see what you're talking about but I dont know that I would use that for a spring. You can get a lifetime supply of grease at the auto parts store for $10. Assuming you have properly fitted guides you really don't need a whole lot. A light coat will get you there.
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I would think a few generous drops on the spring and a few short bursts with an air compressor would distribute the trans fluid nicely?
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Correct. Its a one and done kind of thing. Open the gun up, lube the spring, and then lightly lube your piston and seal with whatever your preferred lube is there. I'm a simple man and just stick to moly paste there. After that you're good to go for 10k shots or so. Tearing down most guns and doing this is a 10 minute process once you've done it a few times. I've even installed a PG4 in a 97K for a friend in the field in under 20min. Your 34 is much simpler.
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Neither do I! Never needed one. For your 34 its pretty simple. Drill a hole on a block of wood for the safety to sit in.I don't have a spring compressor though
-Take the stock off
-Punch out both pins and leave the punch in the hole for the second pin to keep everything held together.
-Place the gun vertically on that block of wood with the safety inside the hole so it doesn't snap
-Press the gun down into the wood until you feel the pressure release from the punch. It will not take much. The 34 isn't under a ton of preload. That being said, keep your face out line of the tube and barrel in case you slip. It is still under enough preload to hurt if you do.
-Remove the punch and slowly let off on the downward pressure.
-Congrats! Your 34 is now apart and you have access to the spring. To remove the piston, remove the barrel and don't lose the two washers on either side. There is a pin inside that pivot hole once the screw is out. Lightly tap that out and the barrel comes right out. Cocking the barrel slightly will make removing the screw and pin/guide easier.
To reinstall everything press the gun back down onto the trigger assembly (with piston and barrel installed) and a punch through the first pin hole to temporarily hold everything together. Make sure the safety spring isn't visible in the second hole (T06 trigger) and then insert the factory retaining pin. Remove the punch and then reinstall the front pin.
Fin.
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If it’s a 34 it’s the easiest spring rifle to take apart, and yes I own a TX200. I stopped using a compressor on 34’s as I had to take the scope off. Just lean into it on the edge of a table (so not to mess up the safety) and slowly let up. It’s not like when you push out the second trigger pin the rifle is going to launch thru the ceiling. A compressor on a 34 is a total waste of time. I even do the same for the RWS 350 but have someone push out the trigger pins while I lean into the rifle on the edge of the table. That said I have done this solo.
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I just had my 34 out of the stock I see what you mean about placing it on the edge of a table looks pretty straight forward thanks for the tip.
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I don't mean to sound stupid, but is the "first" pin the one closest to the rear of the rifle or the other one? Also, what diameter punch do I need?
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@Buddy2023 Hey man ask those questions. I think it’s better to feel like you sound stupid to a bunch of strangers than to screw up your gun or injure yourself.
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there are two pins that hold in the trigger group (which in turn holds in all the guts). When you are leaning into the rifle on the edge of a table they will both push out easily with a punch. Doesn’t matter the order. Once you push the second one out it’s all on you. Just let up slowly. You are only letting up a few inches and the spring pressure is off. I don’t know what size punch. Whatever will go thru the hole. It really is that simple. When putting it back together just reverse the process but you can push the two pins back in by hand. So one hand and shoulder leaning into the rifle on the edge of the table and the other hand installing the pins. It’s not a point of no return type deal. You can always let off and start over, but shouldn’t have too. The first time I tried it I had my five year old daughter push the pins in. I honestly felt safer doing it this way then using the compressor. You have total control and it’s easier, quicker, and you can leave your scope on.
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