Attention Yong Heng Owners: Does This Valve Look Useful to You?

[Ezana4CE]

This valve is has been designed to keep high pressure air flowing out of and away from your pump. I assume that it comes in handy once you turn off the pump. The description says it’s good to prevent pressure from flowing back into your compressor. I don’t have YH, but I read enough threads that you guys post.

Quick-connect In-line One-way Check-valve with Bleed Valve $55-$60​

For more info or to order look here: https://airtanksplus.com/product/quick-connect_in-line_one-way_check-valve_w_bleed_valve/

 

[airgunner1042]

That fitting goes on your fill whip to bleed off the air pressure so you can disconnect the line when filling your rifle or air bottle. The YH already has a bleed valve on the high pressure manifold. most all valves that I have seen have this feature or you would not be able to disconnect the line after filling. Guess you could also use this in lieu of the bleed valve on the YH

 

[dizzums]

well everything has a bleeder although a stand alone bleeder fitting could be useful for some things, thats alot of cheddar though lol ... a checkvalve can be made up out of a male foster, most have a checkvalve in them already, and that is definitely useful but it dont need to be complicated .. a male with check valve threaded into a female is all you need, just pop it on your tank etc when filling .. you can bleed it at either end, tank or yh pending on what your doing ..

 

[rc4fun]

The one-way valve allows you to vent water from the compressor without draining air from the additional seperator/ filter you have down stream. Speeds up fill time. And it allows you to back fill the separators/ filter from the tank reducing the humid air going into the filters.

 

[Gerry52]

#1) too expensive! #2) too many parts in 1/4" adding to more weight & more places to leak from. For the same price one can get a tank fill adapter with built in bleed valve , pressure gauge AND a Male foster one way. IMHO it's a clumsy & not streamlined setup.

 

[Ezana4CE]

Interesting feedback. In reading the product description I would be led to believe that there is some risk of damaging the compressor via back pressure. This is the description of benefits and judging by the responses this device isn’t even necessary.

“Key Features of the Quick-connect In-line One-way Check-valve with Bleed Valve

• Fill or top off your high pressure tank using your small PCP compressor like yong heng
  Most small compressors are not designed to fill tanks. If you choose to do this only run the compressor according to it’s duty cycle, and avoiding heat build up.
• Ensures a one-way airflow from your small pcp compressor to the tank.
• Prevents the pressure in the tank from flowing back into your compressor.
• Allows you to open the tank valve, and the compressors bleed valve prior to starting or stoping the compressor.
• Allows you to operate the compressors bleed valve to help remove moisture without loosing air already in the tank.
• Includes a male quick-connect on one side, and a male or female quick-connect on the other. No tools needed.
• Incorporates a finger-tight bleed screw to vent the air so the fittings can be disconnected.
• Working Pressure 4500 psi”

 

[Gerry52]

Interesting feedback. In reading the product description I would be led to believe that there is some risk of damaging the compressor via back pressure. This is the description of benefits and judging by the responses this device isn’t even necessary.

“Key Features of the Quick-connect In-line One-way Check-valve with Bleed Valve

• Fill or top off your high pressure tank using your small PCP compressor like yong heng
  Most small compressors are not designed to fill tanks. If you choose to do this only run the compressor according to it’s duty cycle, and avoiding heat build up.
• Ensures a one-way airflow from your small pcp compressor to the tank.
• Prevents the pressure in the tank from flowing back into your compressor.
• Allows you to open the tank valve, and the compressors bleed valve prior to starting or stoping the compressor.
• Allows you to operate the compressors bleed valve to help remove moisture without loosing air already in the tank.
• Includes a male quick-connect on one side, and a male or female quick-connect on the other. No tools needed.
• Incorporates a finger-tight bleed screw to vent the air so the fittings can be disconnected.
• Working Pressure 4500 psi”

You're right Dave, it's not necessary.

 

[sasquatch]

Just use the bleed valve on the side of the Compressor is my opinion. It's already there.

My only conceived usage would be if I had a long extension and was filling rifle more than an arms length from Compressor. In that scenario I'd be reading the gun gauge vs Compressor gauge

 

[Rodeo]

Simple and inexpensive inline check valve. Switch the male foster to female if that works better for your set up. I put mine between the small YH filter and large dessicant filter. I have a bleed valve on Yong Heng and on tank valve.

 

[Geezerhood]

This valve is has been designed to keep high pressure air flowing out of and away from your pump. I assume that it comes in handy once you turn off the pump. The description says it’s good to prevent pressure from flowing back into your compressor. I don’t have YH, but I read enough threads that you guys post.

Quick-connect In-line One-way Check-valve with Bleed Valve $55-$60​

View attachment 308757

For more info or to order look here: https://airtanksplus.com/product/quick-connect_in-line_one-way_check-valve_w_bleed_valve/

That looks like a good ready made solution! Thanks for posting it.

View attachment 308869Simple and inexpensive inline check valve. Switch the male foster to female if that works better for your set up. I put mine between the small YH filter and large dessicant filter. I have a bleed valve on Yong Heng and on tank valve.

Where does one find the check valve part? (Off to search now....)

Edit: Found this on Amazon for $9. As long as it is installed in the correct direction with an appropriate connecter on the threaded end to match up with your hoses, it should do the job, correct?

This is exactly what I plan to do, so that I don't have to dump the air in my large water trap every time I shut off the compressor so I can start it back up with no pressure in the line attached to the Yong Heng. It often takes a LOT longer to just fill the water trap to 250 BAR than it does to fill some guns from completely EMPTY to 250 BAR!

If I wanted to fill several guns in a row directly from the Yong Heng rather than my tank, having to bleed the entire system to hook up another gun is a huge waste of time. With these parts on the compressor side of the water trap my filling time will be cut by 50% to 90% with some of the smaller cylinder guns.

 

[Rodeo]

You will still need to bleed the fill line attached to your PCP in order to disconnect it (safely). The check valve is more usefull for filling air storage tanks. The check valve allows you to open the tank valve and pressurize the line and desiccant filter without putting pressure on the compressor. Desiccant filters work best under pressure. This way you can start the compressor with no load on it then run it up to tank pressure before letting any non pressurized air past the filter.
Now, there is another devise that would allow you to do the multi gun fills and keep pressure in the filter. It is called a pressure maintaining valve and they are NOT cheap. AGN has forum threads on them and how they work.

 

[Geezerhood]

You will still need to bleed the fill line attached to your PCP in order to disconnect it (safely). The check valve is more usefull for filling air storage tanks. The check valve allows you to open the tank valve and pressurize the line and desiccant filter without putting pressure on the compressor. Desiccant filters work best under pressure. This way you can start the compressor with no load on it then run it up to tank pressure before letting any non pressurized air past the filter.
Now, there is another devise that would allow you to do the multi gun fills and keep pressure in the filter. It is called a pressure maintaining valve and they are NOT cheap. AGN has forum threads on them and how they work.

Yea, I forgot about no bleed valve or shutoff valve on the GUN side of the water separator when filling guns. I think the inexpensive parts shown in this diagram would work. Anything missing? This setup would allow you to leave pressure in the water trap, release pressure at the compressor without depressurizing the water trap, depressurize the hoses on the gun side of the water trap to disconnect the gun from the hose without depressurizing the water trap. Hook up the next gun, close the gun side bleed valve but leave the gun side shutoff valve closed, start the compressor with no pressure in the outlet line from the compressor, then open the shuttoff valve on the gun side of the water trap to start filling whatever is attached to the end of the train.

None of this would be necessary if you don't mind waiting for the water trap to fill and are comfortable with shutting off the compressor as soon as the gun or tank reach the intended pressure. At the very least, I would want a quick connect one way valve added just before the tank to prevent losing all the air in a large tank if something failed between the compressor and the tank. No bleed valve needed for that on the tank side since the tank would have its own bleed valve.

 

[Eaglebeak]

This valve is has been designed to keep high pressure air flowing out of and away from your pump. I assume that it comes in handy once you turn off the pump. The description says it’s good to prevent pressure from flowing back into your compressor. I don’t have YH, but I read enough threads that you guys post.

Quick-connect In-line One-way Check-valve with Bleed Valve $55-$60​

View attachment 308757

For more info or to order look here: https://airtanksplus.com/product/quick-connect_in-line_one-way_check-valve_w_bleed_valve/

Similar fittings can be made from cheap parts from Ali Express or Flea bay at less than half of what they are asking for that dog's breakfast. The fitting on top is the same as the airtanks plus version and can be quickly changed to a male-female arrangement if need be. It also has a pressure gauge. The bottom fitting screws directly into a DIN 300 tank valve. It also has a check valve and can only be used for filling and not for decanting.

 

[SilentSquirrel]

Similar fittings can be made from cheap parts from Ali Express or Flea bay at less than half of what they are asking for that dog's breakfast. The fitting on top is the same as the airtanks plus version and can be quickly changed to a male-female arrangement if need be. It also has a pressure gauge. The bottom fitting screws directly into a DIN 300 tank valve. It also has a check valve and can only be used for filling and not for decanting.View attachment 309946

Hello Eaglebeak
A few years ago, I bought a valve exactly like the top picture on Ali Express
I went to find another last week, and nothing came up (and the item was no longer in my order history)
Would you happen to have a link to it, please?
Thanks
Ed

 

[Ezana4CE]

Thanks for all of the input. I don’t own, nor have I owned, a Yong Heng compresor. After coming across the valve I was wondering if it was something one might need if they own a YH based upon the item’s description.

 

[Geezerhood]

Similar fittings can be made from cheap parts from Ali Express or Flea bay at less than half of what they are asking for that dog's breakfast. The fitting on top is the same as the airtanks plus version and can be quickly changed to a male-female arrangement if need be. It also has a pressure gauge. The bottom fitting screws directly into a DIN 300 tank valve. It also has a check valve and can only be used for filling and not for decanting.View attachment 309946

On the top one, please provide a link for the main body part. That looks perfect for what I need. A source for the other parts that you added would also be very helpful. I haven't seen anything even remotely like that on Aliexpress, ebay or Amazon. Probably not using the right words for the search.

I rounded up everything I need except a bleed valve to go on the gun side of the water trap to complete the chain shown in my diagram above which allows keeping the pressure in the water trap while being able to remove the gun once it was full and hook up another one, then restart the compressor with no pressure load on it. I found a couple of bleed valves but they were all at least $29 with no fittings on them and they both had 1/4" NPT threads. So I would have to buy 1/4" to 1/8" adapters to attach the 1/8" NPT PCP fittings, making it overly long and pushing the total cost of the bleed valve up over $60 once ready to use. I was ready to give up and just buy a cheap SCBA fill station to modify and fit in the chain to work as a bleed valve on the gun side but your solution looks ideal.

Thanks for all of the input. I don’t own, nor have I owned, a Yong Heng compresor. After coming across the valve I was wondering if it was something one might need if they own a YH based upon the item’s description.

I am glad you posted it. Thanks! I hope you can forgive the hijacking of the thread.

Though I may not buy the exact part you posted, it got me thinking on how to solve the issue of having to dump all the air in my water trap every time I switched guns when filling multiples.

--------------------------

It looks like SilentSquirrel and I hit the trigger at close to the same time about not being able to find parts like that.

 

[Geezerhood]

This is the closest thing I could find on Amazon. Made of stainless steel, it MIGHT be strong enough for PCP work, but there is no pressure rating on the listing. I am going to ask the seller if they have any more specs for it. My biggest concern would be with the male 1/8" NPT fitting on the end. The hole is 6mm in diameter which would definitely make the part weaker than if it it had a much smaller hole in it like the PCP 1/8" NPT etc fittings have. It could be strengthened significantly by silver soldering a female 1/8" NPT to 8mm QC fitting on there with the solder joining all the way around the base of the screwed on fitting as well as having it wick inside the threads. You would think it would be stronger than the brass bleed valve in the assembly shown in the first post by the OP. An all female version would likely be significantly stronger.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BB218GFH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

 

[SilentSquirrel]

This is the closest thing I could find on Amazon. Made of stainless steel, it MIGHT be strong enough for PCP work, but there is no pressure rating on the listing. I am going to ask the seller if they have any more specs for it. My biggest concern would be with the male 1/8" NPT fitting on the end. The hole is 6mm in diameter which would definitely make the part weaker than if it it had a much smaller hole in it like the PCP 1/8" NPT etc fittings have. It could be strengthened significantly by silver soldering a female 1/8" NPT to 8mm QC fitting on there with the solder joining all the way around the base of the screwed on fitting as well as having it wick inside the threads. You would think it would be stronger than the brass bleed valve in the assembly shown in the first post by the OP. An all female version would likely be significantly stronger.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BB218GFH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

View attachment 310043 View attachment 310044

Here is the seller's description of the 1/8" Male NPT x F 1/8" NPT x F 1/8" NPT
Bold & color are my hi-lights
I'm confused!

About this item​

• 1/8 NPT female to 1/8 NPT male metric thread with 1/8'' NPT female side port hose tee fittings
• Made of stainless steel 304 metarial
• Easy Installation of Oil Pressure and/or Oil Temperature Sensors.

 

[Geezerhood]

Here is the seller's description of the 1/8" Male NPT x F 1/8" NPT x F 1/8" NPT
Bold & color are my hi-lights
I'm confused!

About this item​

• 1/8 NPT female to 1/8 NPT male metric thread with 1/8'' NPT female side port hose tee fittings
• Made of stainless steel 304 metarial
• Easy Installation of Oil Pressure and/or Oil Temperature Sensors.

Errors like that are pretty common, unfortunately. I suppose contacting the seller might resolve it. One fairly common translation error I see on PCP fittings is stating they are made of copper when often it is obviously made of brass.

On this part, since the holes are drilled all the way through, with no step inside for a sealing O-Ring or nylon washer, the only way you could seal the connection would be with a Dowty washer which might not work on the hole on the flat hex side, and / or Teflon tape. Not a fan of Teflon tape other than as a last resort. I am going to pass on trying this part.

I think what I am going to do for my solution with the best chance of success at the lowest cost unless someone posts a link to the parts in eaglebeak's post for less money, is going to be buying a complete SCBA fill station assembly, remove the SCBA side connector nozzle which threads off the main body, and plug that hole with a short, threaded steel bolt or plug of the same thread size (1/4" NPT) with a cleaned up tip for a good seal on the synthetic washer inside there. If needed I can convert it back to an SCBA fill station in a few seconds. This solution will give me a spare SCBA fill station if if I ever need it, a larger diameter pressure gauge right next to the rifle when filling guns with tiny and / or inaccurate gauges on them, the needed bleed valve plus an extra length of micro bore hose to boot. I can get a complete SCBA fill station for under $40 delivered from Aliexpress. The cost of all the parts needed to build a bleed valve without a gauge is over that amount.

 

[SilentSquirrel]

Errors like that are pretty common, unfortunately. I suppose contacting the seller might resolve it. One fairly common translation error I see on PCP fittings is stating they are made of copper when often it is obviously made of brass.

On this part, since the holes are drilled all the way through, with no step inside for a sealing O-Ring or nylon washer, the only way you could seal the connection would be with a Dowty washer which might not work on the hole on the flat hex side, and / or Teflon tape. Not a fan of Teflon tape other than as a last resort. I am going to pass on trying this part.

I think what I am going to do for my solution with the best chance of success at the lowest cost unless someone posts a link to the parts in eaglebeak's post for less money, is going to be buying a complete SCBA fill station assembly, remove the SCBA side connector nozzle which threads off the main body, and plug that hole with a short, threaded steel bolt or plug of the same thread size (1/4" NPT) with a cleaned up tip for a good seal on the synthetic washer inside there. If needed I can convert it back to an SCBA fill station in a few seconds. This solution will give me a spare SCBA fill station if if I ever need it, a larger diameter pressure gauge right next to the rifle when filling guns with tiny and / or inaccurate gauges on them, the needed bleed valve plus an extra length of micro bore hose to boot. I can get a complete SCBA fill station for under $40 delivered from Aliexpress. The cost of all the parts needed to build a bleed valve without a gauge is over that amount.

Good observation of the machining, @Geezerhood
Also, it appears that there isn't a way to insert a screw to work as a bleed valve

I do hope @Eaglebeak has a link