I recently read that some later model Weihrauch barrel assemblies are interchangeable. In other words, would it be possible to install an HW98 barrel assembly in my HW95? Or put the shorter HW95 barrel on an HW90?
Tuning Are Weihrauch breakbarrel barrels interchangable?
- Thread starter JayJay
- Start date
Yes many of the "R" series guns have interchangeable barrels. The HW90 though does have a different cocking arm so you would need to stay with another 90 replace the cocking arm.
I don't know what you are looking to do but I have a .22 HW80/R1 barrel that I would trade for a .20 or .177. if that is what you are looking for.
I don't know what you are looking to do but I have a .22 HW80/R1 barrel that I would trade for a .20 or .177. if that is what you are looking for.
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The 98 & 95 (powerplant & barrel) are identical just one has a barrel sleeve, a separate sleeve can be purchased. I have bought 2 of them from PA and installed them on 2 R9's. The R1, R10, R9 & R11 should interchange easily.
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I'm considering getting an HW90 in .22 to match my other .22 rifles. AoA only has it in .17.. Airgun Megastore has an HW90 .22 barrel and breech block for a reasonable price. I did notice that Pomona Airguns lists an RX2 for sale. However, my wife may not approve of that impact to the family wallet!
So my other question is if anyone has run into fitting problems when switching Weihrauch barrels.
Having worked in manufacturing, I know that replacement parts are often not a drop-in item. The factory can correct for tolerance buildup by custom fitting from a bin of parts, but that's not feasible for an aftermarket installer.
Barrel block length must be very accurate otherwise you can get barrel droop. That's probably why the ASP20 has the wedgelock barrel block. I checked my HW30 and HW95, They don't seem to have any droop. The barrel blocks are shimmed on the sides, but I can cut my own shims from stock.
Any thoughts?
So my other question is if anyone has run into fitting problems when switching Weihrauch barrels.
Having worked in manufacturing, I know that replacement parts are often not a drop-in item. The factory can correct for tolerance buildup by custom fitting from a bin of parts, but that's not feasible for an aftermarket installer.
Barrel block length must be very accurate otherwise you can get barrel droop. That's probably why the ASP20 has the wedgelock barrel block. I checked my HW30 and HW95, They don't seem to have any droop. The barrel blocks are shimmed on the sides, but I can cut my own shims from stock.
Any thoughts?
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Cant speak for newer models but back in the day the Beeman and Weihrauch break barrels were interchangable in many models such as R1 and R10 etc. Buying site unseen is a gamble but if you could do a side by side comparison you could tell. Side to side shims are not an issue it is the hinge point center to breech distance that is critical. Most that I have ever checked have been right on as long as your not comparing an R1 barrel to an HW30 barrel. If I can recomend, be sure to go with a carbine length barrel, performance will be better but a little stiffer cocking effort.
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The idea was instead of carrying three airguns can I carry just one gun and have two barrels say .22 on the gun but .25 and .177 spares? If need be I change the barrel as and when necessary!
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If you are wanting to make "quick" change barrel system, this may help:
https://www.trrobb.com/Weihrauch_8097_Quick_Detachable_Stainless_Steel_cocking_arm_front_pin/p1449438_13107089.aspx
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Hi, that's very cool. Presently I'm just using Loctite red to secure the cocking rivet/pin. It seems to be pretty secure and it's easy to press out. But I'll look into that stainless pin.
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The pin is nice, I have one on my HW95, but be aware it protudes from the breech block so you may experience it rubbing the stock. Mine is very close and does touch the stock just barely. I may have to relieve the stock just a bit.
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The better way to secure the linkage pin, is to make a solid pin that is a slip or very light press fit into it's bore. Then drill and tap a hole from the bottom of the breech block, into the pin's bore, and secure with a set screw. Then its all flush, hidden, and easily removable.
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@thumper
Tapping for a set screw is a very good idea. I just might do it.
The factory Weihrauch cocking rivet OD is 4.99mm. 5mm precision ground drill rod is relatively inexpensive and easy to work with. You could get O1 and harden it. If you really want to prevent galling, you can get precision 5mm carbide rod, I saw some online for just $2.90 for a 50mm long piece. The problem is how to cut it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/362727931859?hash=item547444ffd3:g:h~gAAOSw2-9dVqVK
LOL - Although the stock pin seems to wear pretty well!
Tapping for a set screw is a very good idea. I just might do it.
The factory Weihrauch cocking rivet OD is 4.99mm. 5mm precision ground drill rod is relatively inexpensive and easy to work with. You could get O1 and harden it. If you really want to prevent galling, you can get precision 5mm carbide rod, I saw some online for just $2.90 for a 50mm long piece. The problem is how to cut it.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/362727931859?hash=item547444ffd3:g:h~gAAOSw2-9dVqVK
LOL - Although the stock pin seems to wear pretty well!
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