Are the large inline oil/water filters necessary

I own a Tuxing inline oil/water filter that (obviously, as it's name states) separates and moisture or vaporized oil molecules from the air that comes out of the compressor I own. Well, a few weeks back I had the compressor on the high pressure side (it's a dual stage, dual piston compressor) catastrophically fail on me, so I ordered 4 new pistons from our "friends" across the pond (i.e. China). After receiving the pistons on Thursday, I installed the new one yesterday. I always (historically) filled my scuba tank with the inline filter to make sure I was putting clean air into the tank, and in turn, clean air into my rifle. Well, interestingly enough, I went to fill my tank yesterday. I always run the compressor for 4 or 5 minutes to get everything warmed up before I put a load on it. This "warm up" period is all of the components hooked up, minus the tank. Well, I noticed something strange.... The pressure compressor needed to be at 400 psi before I got a sufficient air flow to start moving through the inline filter. This makes sense to a degree for me, since there's a multitude of layers that it needs to push through before the air reaches the other side. But 400 psi seems somewhat excessive. So I decided to investigate this further. 

My filter has 3" of cylindrical cotton near the entrance, 4 or 5 inches of desiccant (the color changing kind) in the middle, and another 3" of cotton at the exiting end. There's stainless steel mesh separating the different elements in the filter. But I decided to pull it apart, and I discovered that only the first piece of cotton showed ANY signs of staining or "wear" from the process. The desiccant is purple, and when it gets wet, it turns pink. It's commercial grade. I have a gallon container of it. I use it at my work for various purposes. But it's VERY sensitive to moisture. You can definitely tell when it gets wet. It goes from a royal blue / purple color to a hot pink color. But when I pulled the filter apart, there was ZERO evidence of moisture. My compressor has a water moisture trap on it. Every time I drain the trap, there's a LOT of moisture that comes out. There's no way the trap captures ALL of the moisture though. I guess the point that I'm trying to make is I don't think the huge inline filters are necessary. I think they are overkill. Air Venture makes a small, inline filter that I just ordered.

The other issue with the large filter is the volume of the filter in and of itself. It's like airing up an additional .35L air tank on top of whatever else you're airing up. And it's not like taking the tank from 3000psi to 4500psi. You're going from zero to 4500. So in my opinion it's enormously wasteful, and puts unnecessary time and stress on the compressor- which already operates teetering on the verge of component failure. 

So I'm going to start using the smaller inline filter when filling my tanks. I'm going to replace the stock Buna-N o-rings with cast disogrin polyurethane o-rings that have a shear strength of 6,000psi, and can handle pressures up to 10,000 psi. Then I can push the filter to 4600 psi instead of 4500, which allows for the tank to settle in at 4500. 

But I was curious what your thought were on this. I have the evidence to prove you don't need anything more than 2-3" of cotton to filter out the vast majority of the moisture and oil that come from the compressor. Let me know what you guys think about this. I'm genuinely interested in your feedback or your own experiences. 
 
I'm awaiting delivery of a Yong Heng compressor & was wondering the same thing. Through the generosity of others on this forum I already have a Tuxing large filter(cotton only, no dessicant beads) & a smaller Airmega filter with beads. I agree with how sensitive the beads are to the presence of moisture as I have experience with them & know how little moisture it takes to make them change color. Your evidence, though more anecdotal than empirical, is enough to make me try the smaller, partially dessicant filled filter 1st. You're also correct about the volume of the larger filter. Why put extra strain & volume of air on the equipment if there's not really a need? If I'm wrong I can always try the larger Tuxing or even Both if needed. Took me a year to convince my "better half" that the YH would save $ & time in the long run. I want this sucker to last as long as is humanly possible to prove to her that, for once, I was right! Y'all be safe out there & shoot straight. Gerry 
 
Gerry52, Stephen from Air Velocity Sport (on YouTube) put together a great video on maintaining and servicing your YH compressor to get the most life out of it. I highly recommend watching it. But if there's any recommendation I would make when operating the YH compressor, it's this. At the end of the filling cycle, don't just shut it off. Use the drain valve to release the pressure. When the pressure in the air hose drops below the pressure of the air cylinder on your rifle, the pressure in the cylinder will close off the valve. But if you just shut off the compressor with a 4500 psi load on it, if the second stage piston is at the top of the stroke, the pressure will slam it down to the bottom of the stroke, and potentially damage the top of the aluminum piston that it's affixed to. This eventually cracks the piston head, and it no longer creates pressure. Also, after you've run the compressor and you're finished, take a home compressor (if you have one) like the 125-150 psi compressors that most people own, and blow the water out of the cooling reservoir on the YH. If you don't do this, then the water sits in there, and it calcifies and causes erosion of that aluminum part. 

Regarding "wasting" effort on the part of the compressor when using the Tuxing inline filter, this is what I can tell you. Normally when I go to refill my dive tank with air (using the Tuxing filter), It takes 2-3 minutes for the pressure to reach equalization with the pressure in the tank, and the one way vale to open up so the tank starts filling. So for experimental purposes (yesterday), I removed the Tuxing filter and ran the compressor air straight into the tank. It took 15 seconds for the pressure in the hose to equalize with the pressure in the tank so the tank could start filling. 

This is what I'm thinking.... I'm going to use the smaller filter inline to fill the tank. And then I'm going to use it AGAIN when I fill my rifle from the scuba tank. So the air gets doubly filtered before going into my rifle. 
 
Distilled water is a better option. But if you have a small compressor at home with the trigger/nozzle tip on it, the tip fits perfectly into the plastic compression fitting where the hose for the water goes. Squeeze the trigger and push air through the cooling chamber until it comes out dry. 

If you decide to use distilled water, I recommend using the same water over and over again. That way it doesn't get too expensive to use. Put it in a 5 gallon bucket and keep a lid on it between uses. You'll need a minimum of 3 gallons though. If you want to cool the water off without contaminating it, get 3 or 4 water bottles and keep them frozen. Then toss the water bottles into the bucket during the compression process. Everything can be reused. 
 
I used a Yong Heng for well over a year, as have others here. Two things I would recommend- a good compressor oil for lube and keeping the unit as cool as possible when running. I use ice in my water so I cannot reuse the water but I do think the "blowing out" of the coolant passages is a good idea. Some will claim ice isn't necessary, and that is possible. You did note "baby" the compressor so using a good lube and running cool might make a difference. Hope it works well for you.
 
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I am with you on the filter. I use the large gold Tuxing with my Yong Heng and have not had to change the media cartridge in over a year now. I have found that purging the system every five minutes and changing the tiny Yong Heng cotton filter every 20 minutes or so keeps the larger Tuxing filter pretty dry although not entirely. So, a smaller filter, than the Tuxing, would werq fine for me. This would depend entirely on the humidity in one's environment though, mine is near 60% in the basement, so although this will werq for some others will still need the big one. The smaller filter will speed things up and put less wear and tear on the compressor for sure.

I use filtered water and never drain the lines after using the system. I change the water out every few months because of algae growth and have added some water wetter recently to try to stop it. I have had no problems in two plus years of operation. 

Also people need to remember 300bar is a 4350psi not the 4500psi it states in the manual. A bit contradictory it is. So pushing it to 4500 is hard on the unit and I have blown several burst discs doing so. Once I sopped the fill at 4200psi I stopped blowing burst disks so that is my fill pressure these days.

Pic with the large filter



Small filter that should werq

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OK, watched video, VERY informative. Just ordered a Male foster w/check valve as recommended. I will also use distilled water in a closed bucket to keep debris out & definitely will use the frozen water bottle trick (of course, leaving room for expansion as water in bottles freezes). You guys are THE BEST! Love the feeling of community & giving on this forum. Be safe & shoot straight my fellow airgunners!