Are Higher Power Scopes Clearer At Lower Magnigication?

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First let's assume the scopes are the same brand and same model, just different magnification, to keep the glass quality and coating quality equal between the two. Then at 24x they will both be the same clarity, I assume. I believe the brightness results from the lens thickness and amount of lenses (again, glass and coating quality are the same between the two so they don't contribute to a difference).
 
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Most scope lose image quality at the top of their magnification. So you are correct, at 24X the image on the 8-32X will most likely be noticeably better. My "gut feel", "rule of thumb" experience is the image is unaffected from the lowest to say 50% / 60% of the zoom range. It may get slightly worse from 50% / 60% to 75% / 85% and then the last 15% / 25% of the zoom range is most likely best to avoid.

Those percentages probably change favorably upwards as you jump to the $1,000 or the $3,000 class scopes (at least I sure hope they do!).
 
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"chasdicapua"Thanks JR, that's what I expected. I want 24x or a bit higher for longer shooting, but feel the 32x will be a better scope that I can shoot around 24 - 28x

Now, what scope to get........
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SWFA scopes have received good reviews. Check them out. You could also look at a Hawke. UTG scopes are also good but I find the reticle on them to be a bit thick. I prefer finer reticles which helps me shoot more accurately. 
 
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"FearnLoading"
"chasdicapua"Thanks JR, that's what I expected. I want 24x or a bit higher for longer shooting, but feel the 32x will be a better scope that I can shoot around 24 - 28x

Now, what scope to get........
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SWFA scopes have received good reviews. Check them out. You could also look at a Hawke. UTG scopes are also good but I find the reticle on them to be a bit thick. I prefer finer reticles which helps me shoot more accurately.
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You have to look carefully when evaluating UTG scopes. I agree that those in their line-up with wire reticles are a little on the thick side. UTG scopes with the etched glass reticle are AWESOME! Very fine and many aim points. My favorite scope to date is my UTG 6-24X56 with the etched glass reticle.
 
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Great info AZ. It would be so helpful if someone wrote a tutorial (perhaps one basic and one advanced) on all things about scopes. I pick up bits and pieces (like this, thanks) on the forum, but it would be great to have it all on one place. I will be shooting only at targets and only at longer ranges Do you have a fixed power 30mm tube scope you would recommend?
 
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I'm new to this forum but just completed some rather extensive research while making a decision on a scope purchase. I ran across this series of lessons on scopes that was VERY informative. Lots of good info in here.

SNIPER 101 Part 15 - Scope Turrets (1/2)

SNIPER 101 Part 16 - Scope Turrets (2/2)

SNIPER 101 Part 17 - TOP Sniper Scopes in History - Overview

SNIPER 101 Part 18 - Variable vs Fixed Magnification Scopes

SNIPER 101 Part 19 - Scope Magnification Values

SNIPER 101 Part 20 - Effective Reticles and Objective Lens Sizes

SNIPER 101 Part 21 - Scope Quality by Brand

SNIPER 101 Part 22 - Scopes - Rex's BEST Picks

EDIT: Not sure what happened to the links when I first posted this but I've since fixed them and they appear to be working now. These videos contain a lot of information on scope nomenclature and things to pay attention to when comparing features between scopes. Even though the context in the videos is very long range shooting the discussion about scope features/qualities is very informative.
 
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I am glad to read that you've learnt about scopes before buying. Your work could have been reduced by searching on this forum, which has same and similar links listed and discussed. It is developing into an ever interesting source of information.

I would caution airgunners in relation to the TRex videos, in that they are focussed on scopes for work with centrefire/semi-auto rifles. 99% of airgunners can buy various scopes for a maximum $150USD that will easily fulfil their requirements; up to 100 yards if a high powered PCP. 

Regards 
 
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With pretty much any scope, the higher you go in magnification, the more sharpness you will loose. 16X max or 20x max on a good scope are very good for airgun shooting. I use maximum magnification only when target shooting, for hunting I usually stay at 10x. The more magnification you use the more you will magnify movement, pulse etc. There is a saying, ''aim small, miss small'' 
 
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"azuaro""If you have a 6-24 and an 8-32 scope that are of the same brand and model, will the image in the 8-32 scope be sharper at 24x because it’s not at the edge of it’s range like the 6-24 would be?"

The answer to your question is most of the times they are...Optics perform better at intermediate powers vs. full power...
There is also another fact: Fixed power scopes are more clear and sharp than their variable power counterparts set at the same power range...This is why you find that target shooters use for the most part fixed power scopes.

Variable scopes are brighter and clear at lower power levels, that is just the way optics work...If you intend to use higher power settings most of the time for your shooting application and your 1 inch scope is borderline, consider 30 mm scope tubes, the larger diameter of the tube allows more light gathering and this improves the optics...Nevertheless, there is no gain without pain, 30 and 34 mm scopes are brighter yes, but at the cost of being heavier and bulkier.

The "Pupil" ratio in also to consider...The pupil is calculated by dividing the objective diameter by the power, the larger the objective the more light gathering and the brighter and usually clearer the scope...As an example: 
A 10-50 x 60 Sightron III has a 60 mm objective (Front lens diameter)...At 10 X it has a 6 pupil and at 50 it is only 1.2...At 10 X is much clear and sharp than at 50.

Regards,

AZ

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Hi AZ,

Sorry to say it, but tube diameter has got nothing to do with light gathering.
The part you mentioned in the last part does. It's all about the exit pupil. Up to a certain point ofcourse. When the diameter of the exit pupil exceeds the diameter of the eye pupil, the scope can't get any "clearer"
That's why you see a high magnification zoom scope getting darker after a certain point when zooming and looking through it at the same time.
When the scope's image is getting darker, the exit pupil is getting smaller than your eye pupil, and the amount of light caught by your retina is decreasing.
By the way, the eye pupil diameter also decreases with age. A young person can have a PD of 8mm, while an old person might have a PD of 4mm.

About the example of the 2 scopes 6-24 and 8-32, I'd say the image quality will likely be the same at the same magnification, all else being equal. With high end scopes, it would be hard to tell the difference in image quality between the 24x and 32x both at max. magnification.
For most cheaper scopes, the 24x model will look better at the highest magnification, because the higher the magnification, the more the optics are going to be put to the test.

 
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