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anyone using the Corbin swage kit?

I realized what was wrong with the lead wire cutter. There aren't any good pictures of the cutter assembled, but on the page where they sell the dies, they mention that there's a tall one, and a short one, and the tall one goes on the upper (stationary) portion. They assembled mine backwards, so the long die prevented me from cutting wire shorter than 1/2" long. I reversed the dies today, and can go as short as I'd ever need to. I now have the blanks cutting at 31-31.5 gr for the 30 gr slugs. That extrudes about 3/16" of fine wire out of each hole. 

I made a couple dozen 30 gr, hollow point, flat base (NSA clone) slugs, and they shot just like the NSA slugs, as expected of course. Looks like I'm in business, aside from raising the press to a better working height. 




I asked for a true boat tail base punch, and Dave Corbin informed me that they do not make one for this style die. In conversation, he admitted that rebated boat tail is better than a true standard boat tail, because it allows for less drag. In order to make a true boat tail, another die would have to be introduced into the equation, along with the $489 die we already have. He said it could be done, it's not a standard shape they mass produce, so it would be pretty pricey to the point that it wouldn't be worth it compared to a rebated boat tail. 

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
Things are still going well with the press. I switched from the hollow point tip punch to the flat tip punch, and I've shot enough now to say that there is certainly no reduction in accuracy with the flat tip vs hollow point. Since I don't hunt, this is good in several ways. Mainly, the tips are less likely to be deformed in handling, and they're easier to make. You have to pull the hollow point rounds off the tip punch, and it can take some effort. There's also a risk of deforming the nose if you don't pull it straight up. With the flat tips, the slug is just balanced on the punch, waiting for you to simply pick it up. 



I found the same thing with the hollowpoint.....what I did to alleviate the problem, or at least make it easier, is to lube the tin before putting the cut wire into it, and roll the tin for a minute or two. This will give a thin coating of lube, that's just enough to do the job, but not over doing it to hydro lock the tip.

Tom Holland 

Field Target Tech 
In my case I think it was a lack of lube on the tip punch. I was rolling the cores around, and not getting any lube on the ends. I found that if I occasionally wiped my slimy fingers on the tip punch, the next few came off a lot easier. Still, if you don't need the hollow point for hunting, going with the plain flat tip seems to be a win win. 

Why you dont give a try to Gmi engineering tool

This modular tool can swag different lenghts different headsizes different diameters for each caliber

Tool under 200 dollars

Cheap press 1 ton 70 dollars

Wire cutter 40 dollars

And 1000 dollars stay for next rifle

I got one, and for the impact is a big NO.

care to elaborate? why is it a big no?
Yes, I am raising a zombie.

The fact is, I have decided to order a Corbin air pistol swage die set with two dies each for 22 and 25 caliber (the ones that shoot best in my rifles). I have calculated the break-even point and am comfortable with that. My question, for those using the Corbin set up: is there anything that you know now, that you wish you had known when you purchased the set-up? Tips? Tricks? Techniques? What to avoid?

Thank you,

I've been using them for awhile with 22,.25.357 dies with HP and hybrid style slugs.

You can order then in different base to suit your needs.

I've got all three indish base, flat base, and boat tail base, with inject points to be hollow point, solid point, and the FX hybrid style. 

Cant go wrong with Dave Corbin press but the lead time is a year long ...

I can make 500.pp worth of FX hybrid slugs for 40.00 for a 10lb roll of lead..

They are not cheap but if you own a few High end PCP like the impact, daystate,,etc then surly, you can afford to shoot them.
Thank you everyone for the excellent information and your experience. I’m new to pcp and now owned an Impact M3 in a 22 and a 25 AEA HP Carbine. I want to purchase the Corbin Slug Kit but not sure which die(s) is best suited for my .22 and .25. Can you guys please please advise me on the minimum that I need? Appreciate your time and knowledge. 
I don,t know how much you guys shoot, but you are going to have to shoot allot to even brake even as far for a cost stand point at the price of a corbin set up. NSA has the 

Best price of any good slug maker. His slugs are as accurate as any slug or pellet I have shot. If you just want too make that large of investment to just try your hand at it 

I understand . For me I would whether invest my $ in up grading the next rifle I have been wanting.

Fly 😋
Fly.. the problem is not how much it costs.. for me is more trouble .. to shoot pellets or slugs that have changed and you only notice on your next batch. N start wasting air n lead ..a guy recently posted his findings when he measured size of his 5.52 tin of .22 JSB pellets .. unbelievable inconsistencies in head size..and then we scratching ou head asking were that last pellets go..so you can't trust in having a tune for a slug that shoot awesome..because is in other hands that the slug will continue to be aviable... I prefer to have some control my self that why I'm buying a set ..