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Anyone using a Centrifugal Filter?

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Bullpupone said:
Geezerhood,

I like the idea, filling both canisters certainly puts time on my compressor every time.

As I think about it though doesn't leaving it pressurized with the Yong Heng then leave the water trapped in the centrifugal coalescing filter by not venting it? Doesn't that increase the risk of corrosion in that part?

Regardless, if you don't mind, would you please send me a list of what you are using, I'd like to play around with the idea a bit.

BP-1
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When I am done filling guns, I vent all of the filters while they are filling up to 300 or 310 bar with a quick open / close of the purge valve then one more quick check right at the very end to verify that no moisture is visible coming out.

This page of mine has more details on how I set mine up. There are probably better ways to do it, certainly much more expensive ways as well, but this has been working well for quite a while and was fairly inexpensive.

1696109525473.png
 
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I am pretty sure the GX CS2 has a coalescing filter on it already. This type of filter apparently has to be sized for the system it is on and will not filter well if the flow rate is not "right". In the Target Forge video where he sent air samples off for testing he found no benefit for the coalescing filter on the GX CS2. He states he thinks it is the low flow rate of the CS2 that caused that result.

Another point is that the coalescing filter is a different and possibly better way to do the same thing as the absorptive filter (i.e. tampon filter) not a filter with dessicant. Both the absorptive filter and the coalescing filter capture water condensed from the air as it cools. The dessicant removes moisture that is still in the air. If the air in our systems may still be warmer than our bottle and/or guns, then we need the dessicant to remove some more moisture do it doesn't condense in our bottle and/or guns.

The charcoal in dessicant type filters is not a dessicant. It is to improve the smell of the air. If we were going to breathe the air that might be important but my guns do not care. So I take the charcoal out and put in more dessicant.
 
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JimD

I have not seen the Target Forge video so I can't speak to his findings or the flow rate, but I can tell you that with the A/C running in my office and the room air humidity at 50% the coalescing filter pulled considerably more moisture than my Omega Compressor alone did so I suspect the flow was appropriate. Though in truth it did have to compress more air, because of the greater volume of the filter.

BP-1
 
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Bullpupone said:
Geezerhood,

I just started to look for the parts, as you noted them.
Could you possibly send me photo(s) of what/how the connections look like in position? I'm trying to picture the layout in my mind and I'm failing. Ask me about pediatric physiology and I can imagine it all day everyday, mechanical things not as easy for me.

BP-1
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It would be difficult for me to take a photo of my setup that would show what you want, but I have used your setup to show where the parts will go. You can use threaded connectors or QD connectors or a mix of them to hook everything up. Just make sure that the one way fitting is pointing the right direction to allow air to pass through it to the gun side but not back into the compressor.

1696122347042.png
 
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GoldenFrog said:
One more question, it says that the centrifugal filter is rated to 4500psi and the GX CS4 is rated to 5800psi. Could this be an issue? Thanks
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It would be if you exceed 4,500 psi. Everything has a safety factor and completely up to user if they choose to exceed it. Probably the best you could do is put a note on the compressor not to exceed 4,500psi.
When you gamble with safety, you bet your life.
 
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charlie99 said:
I have a yong heng compressor and I also use the Toauto filter followed by a tuxing gold filter with the molecular sieve. I always drain the centrifugal filter first. My opinion/theory is that whatever moisture there is gets exhausted out rather than pushed into the molecular sieve filter.
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Actually, any moisture in liquid form will not transform back into vapor unless it’s heated. The order that you drain would not matter but most people do the sequence you stated, coalescer, then molecular sieve (final filter/drier).
 
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Bullpupone said:
Geezerhood,

last question, I hope, the shutoff valve, Amazon lists different types FxF, FxM, MxM which did you use?
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You will have to figure that out on your own based on the threads and types of connections on the items you already have. A thread pitch gauge in metric and one in SAE will be very helpful in determining what you have now. Most Chinese products will have metric threads. M10 is the most common for Chinese quick connectors and whip fittings but there is no guarantee that is what you have.
 
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Geezerhood said:
You will have to figure that out on your own based on the threads and types of connections on the items you already have. A thread pitch gauge in metric and one in SAE will be very helpful in determining what you have now. Most Chinese products will have metric threads. M10 is the most common for Chinese quick connectors and whip fittings but there is no guarantee that is what you have.
Click to expand...
thanks
 
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