Anyone know of the best way to remove this kind of rust?

[Maizen]

Hello there.

I’ve got an old air rifle that has some rust. What’s your best rust removal methods for this type of rust…without removing the bluing? It doesn’t look bad without light: 

With light it looks bad: 

Regards.

 

[Guest]

That's a finger print someone left on the rifle and the salt and oils in the print ...

Yeah, I like silicon based oils because they are safe around HPA. I'd take a green scrubby pad and put a couple drops of that oil on it. Scrub gently and hope the finish is still intact under the rust. If it isn't then clean it off again with 91% alcohol and retouch it with cold blue (Ebay, Midwest USA).

I suppose someone else will have a better idea.. but that's what I got.

 

[dizzums]

oil and some 0000 steel wool to start ..go lightly, usually you can blend it out, dont focus on the spot do the whole barrel, and dont overdo it you wont get perfection but can get it alot better... i'd only reblue if you cant get a satisfactory result, its hard to achieve a durable long lasting finish at home ...

 

[badammo]

Balistol and a rag works well for removing light rust. The only way to really fix it would be to reblue it as the blueing now has failed. 

The balistol will remove the surface rust and protect it from further damage.

 

[MaineJim]

0000 steel wool with any kind of oil will take it right out withought harming the blueing at all.

You can scrab that barrel till you are blue in the face without causing any damage to the blue

I have cleaned a lot of guns this way and yours dont seem too rusted that would leave pits in the metal.

 

[uhfradarwill]

I'd start by disassembling the rifle.

All the visible parts would get a nice glass bead blasting. Cut the end of the gloves off the blaster; gets in the way of holding small parts. The tips of your fingers will get tougher.

After the bead blasting I'd apply some 500 grit compound to your floor-mounted 2 Hp buffer, be careful not to dish out any stamping or round off any square edges.

Next apply some 1,200 grit rouge to another wheel; let the buffing wheel spin at full speed, then lean into the wheel with the stick of rouge and let your body weight stop the wheel just as it liquifies then hit the power off switch then repeat.

Let the wheel cool and polish to a high shine.

Drop all the parts into a hot soap tank. Use tiny brushes to ensure you buffing compound is completely gone.

Hit the hot water rinse tank, rinse very well.

Take the pieces rite from the rinse tank and put them in your bluing rack somehow. Wire coat hangers work well.

Set them in the already boiling, preferably Brownells, bluing sauce. Keep an eye on the sauce and keep the parts below the surface.

You'll want to maintain the desired temp, the trick of the trade is to adjust temp by adding more water, don't screw with the flame ever!!

When the parts look nice and black, remove from the sauce, rinse well, and drown them with WD-40 or similar.

Wipe excess oil off and re-assemble the gun.



That is how I've done it for years!!

Will

 

[AirShot]

Even using a cold blueing material, apply heat to make the blue go deeper after scrubbing with ultra fine steel wool. Wouldnt take that much to blue that whole barrel to make it look more even

 

[Cannonball]

I would try the 0000 steel wool and some quality gun oil as already mentioned. I think you will be surprised at the results. You might not even need to re-blue it after your done. 

 

[armored007]

good excuse to get it cerakoted

 

[survivor45]

That's a finger print someone left on the rifle and the salt and oils in the print ...

Yeah, I like silicon based oils because they are safe around HPA. I'd take a green scrubby pad and put a couple drops of that oil on it. Scrub gently and hope the finish is still intact under the rust. If it isn't then clean it off again with 91% alcohol and retouch it with cold blue (Ebay, Midwest USA).

I suppose someone else will have a better idea.. but that's what I got.

This ^^
But I’ll add. Use a thick oil that does not evaporate. Oil the rust spot and let it sit for over night. That way the oil will soak down into the rust. 
Then with a well worn green 3M / scotch brite pad. Gently scrub. 
That rust is not bad. I’ve worked with worse. 


Side note. Sounds like uhfradarwell is a professional. If I were him I’d start expecting a lot of PMs coming into his in box. 

 

[rsfrid]

I use Eezox and a soft cloth or paper towel. Leave a slight film for future corrosion resistance. I wouldn't use anything abrasive or even slightly abrasive unless you plan to have the metal refinished. Eezox can be used on any metal subject to corrosion such as knife blades, screws, etc. It's protection is very long lasting, doesn't stain or discolor the finishes, etc.

Available from Amazon.

 

[steve-l]

Rust is oxidized steel. Rust is 17 times the displacement of the un-oxidized base metal. Removing rust, no matter what method will leave a pit, as the base metal that was there is now gone. My point is that damage has been done and rust removal is not going to fix it.

 

[survivor45]

I read this technique a few years ago: Find a pre-1965 penny (copper up to that date). Place a small amount of light oil on the rusted area, then rub the penny back and forth on the oiled section. Excessive force is not necessary. After a few seconds, stop and wipe off the area with a rag. The rust removing effects are profound, almost like magic!

You are correct. Also a pre 64 dime or even brass. These materials will not scratch the blueing. The problem with using steel wool or even a scotch brite pad. Is that big flakes of rust can get trapped in the pad and the rust itself will scratch the blueing. So by picking or scraping the rust away using lots of oil to float the rust chips away. You reduce the chance of scratching and can pin point the problem spot. 
I’ve used these tools many many times to clean up rust spots on firearms. One of them is just a 30-30 casing smashed and filed to a chisel point. 

 

[uhfradarwill]

Rust is oxidized steel. Rust is 17 times the displacement of the un-oxidized base metal. Removing rust, no matter what method will leave a pit, as the base metal that was there is now gone. My point is that damage has been done and rust removal is not going to fix it.

+1 Steve is 100% correct!! I would have responded with some "home remedies", but the OP asked for the "best" technique...

Prep for hot bluing will remove the pits and the end result will be better than factory!!

 

[Maizen]

Rust is oxidized steel. Rust is 17 times the displacement of the un-oxidized base metal. Removing rust, no matter what method will leave a pit, as the base metal that was there is now gone. My point is that damage has been done and rust removal is not going to fix it.

Of course! My goal is to get rid of the remaining rust so it doesn’t get worse. 

Regards

 

[uhfradarwill]

Rust is oxidized steel. Rust is 17 times the displacement of the un-oxidized base metal. Removing rust, no matter what method will leave a pit, as the base metal that was there is now gone. My point is that damage has been done and rust removal is not going to fix it.

Of course! My goal is to get rid of the remaining rust so it doesn’t get worse. 

Regards

In that case, as already recommended here, oil and 0000 steel wool.

Keep in mind that the area will tend to rust faster now because the protective finish has been abused.

Just wipe her down after handling and you'll be fine!!

 

[napairgunner]

I love this stuff and have used it for years. It won't make it all go away but it will clean it up a lot https://www.bluewonderguncare.com/collections/featured-products-from-blue-wonder/products/blue-wonder-gun-cleaner