Anyone Interested in Titanium / Heat Anodized Parts? (FX Maverick / Impact)?

There are a whole slew of things one could make and sell for Mavs. I know there are plans for many things, but it just seems nothing is coming to market for these and are taking a backseat to all things Impact. Personally think titanium is overkill for most pieces unless you need high strength and lightweight (like valve pin maybe). If someone actually was making Mav carbon fiber shrouds with tensioning I am betting you they would be busy. Obviously aluminum would be a lot cheaper there and probably all that would be necessary. Hammer weights would also be one that people might jump on As far as titanium, I would think the actual cocking linkages would be a much better use for the price incurred. .

Yeah titanium isn't the most ideal material for shroud end caps given the costs and the threads prone to galling (although a light amount of graphite-based anti-seize has mitigated those issues for me). It's a lot better than AL when it comes to down thread wear and I'd argue that it has some positive benefits for harmonics, but IMO nothing comes close to it aesthetically. I get kind of mesmerized looking at it regardless of the finish lol

Aluminum is cheaper and easier to machine, but I would much rather take the slight weight penalty of using a ~316 stainless steel or even a blued carbon steel. You can only run a tap through worn / damaged AL threads so many times before the thread wear gets bad enough that the part is not perfectly concentric to the bore.

Thinner Ti rods bend too much so I chose to stick with music wire to replace my bent cocking rod. My only complaint is how difficult that it was to thread it with my lathe. There might be some expensive die out there than can thread it, but I didn't chuck it with a precision collet in my lathe and I ruined some $20 carbide threading inserts when I threaded my rod (I think I finished it with a ground cobalt HSS tool).

i would love one of those cocking lever and handle sets if thats still possible. beautiful work btw, that shroud had me drooling but theres no way thatd be under $200 right?

I machined my lever (not talking about the handle) on my small vertical mill with a piece of 1" Ti rod. I screwed up that first one after I had already spent almost two full days machining it, but I wore out SEVERAL $70-100 end mills during fabrication. The only way that I could see being able to sell a $200 Ti lever is if you already had a CAD model with the CAM tool paths and outsourced it to china (not caring about the actual grade of the materials and QC). There would be some minimum order requirement for N number of pieces and God only knows how long it would take these days to produce and receive the order. 

I made a quick and dirty spreadsheet after I machined my CF/Ti shrouds just to get a ballpark of the material and (manual) labor costs. I don't have the actual spreadsheet file on this device, but this was a screenshot that I took with the actual amount of man hours that I spent making an individual shroud and Ti locking ring with my crazy tolerances inside and out:

EE8CAFF3-2275-41EE-BE83-E3992C4FC800.1652459633.jpeg

That was formulated with the costs from about 4 months ago for the professional grade high modulus CF tubing and a 2' rod of 1" OD 6AL-4V Ti (certified material). How's that for sticker shock?! lol
 


You aren't "anodizing" the material..! Anodizing is a chemical process that takes time, various chemical baths, AND money.

You are just putting heat to it, and the heat...does the coloring ! That's NOT anodizing. While titanium can...be anodized, it's not done as you speak, and it's also not cheap. It's also not very durable. Some consecrated rubbing with a dry thumb would eventually remove the color.

I have an older car that uses a hood prop rod. I made one out of titanium. I had to bend it in a few places. I liked the color that it left from the heat, so like you, I warmed most of the rod to produce some nice colors. And, as you say, that coloring is also...not very durable. It does scratch easily.

Also note, titanium is slightly heavier than aluminum.



Mike

LOL, well I wasn't expecting a know it all type to chime in and "correct" me for some time, but I'm not surprised you got me so quickly. Go ahead and pat yourself in the back Mike, job well done!

For the record, I can anodize the parts or "heat oxidize" the parts, depending on what is desired. The latter just looks cooler, and as I've said can be erased and redone pretty easily.


Well...I really DON'T know it all, nor claim to, but...non-truth's...to prospective buyers isn't a nice thing to do ! Proper homework first, post second.

And yes, your second sentence above is MUCH more correct.

Mike
 


You aren't "anodizing" the material..! Anodizing is a chemical process that takes time, various chemical baths, AND money.

You are just putting heat to it, and the heat...does the coloring ! That's NOT anodizing. While titanium can...be anodized, it's not done as you speak, and it's also not cheap. It's also not very durable. Some consecrated rubbing with a dry thumb would eventually remove the color.

I have an older car that uses a hood prop rod. I made one out of titanium. I had to bend it in a few places. I liked the color that it left from the heat, so like you, I warmed most of the rod to produce some nice colors. And, as you say, that coloring is also...not very durable. It does scratch easily.

Also note, titanium is slightly heavier than aluminum.



Mike

LOL, well I wasn't expecting a know it all type to chime in and "correct" me for some time, but I'm not surprised you got me so quickly. Go ahead and pat yourself in the back Mike, job well done!

For the record, I can anodize the parts or "heat oxidize" the parts, depending on what is desired. The latter just looks cooler, and as I've said can be erased and redone pretty easily.


Well...I really DON'T know it all, nor claim to, but...non-truth's...to prospective buyers isn't a nice thing to do ! Proper homework first, post second.

And yes, your second sentence above is MUCH more correct.

Mike

6211BC87-6716-458A-9FA3-3F9DB02EEA40.1652477805.jpeg

 
HAHAHAAHAAAHAAAAAAAAA🤣 that face…👌🏻she just all “jeeeeeezzz” but yeah no your droolworthy upgrades fall into the “one can dream” category for me with them price tags… thatd prolly put more of a damper on your sales than any amount of self taught rocket scientists(funny cuz in my childhood i went on a little “spud gun dont cut it” kick in which cardboard tubes fulla what started at saltpeter and sugar pushed various payloads were sent down lengths of pvc pipe, but thats not the type im referring to here) silly criticisms could ever hope to.
 
HAHAHAAHAAAHAAAAAAAAA
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that face…
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she just all “jeeeeeezzz”

The Debbie Downer photos are timeless (and useful for replies lol).

your droolworthy upgrades fall into the “one can dream” category for me with them price tags… thatd prolly put more of a damper on your sales than any amount of self taught rocket scientists(funny cuz in my childhood i went on a little “spud gun dont cut it” kick in which cardboard tubes fulla what started at saltpeter and sugar pushed various payloads were sent down lengths of pvc pipe, but thats not the type im referring to here) silly criticisms could ever hope to.

Thanks man, yeah I wanted to use proper materials for my personal shrouds, but the pricing was what it was. I'm not open to making them for anyone now anyway, but I will say that they're a night and day difference from the Chinesium / Amazonesium that most people are probably used to seeing. I refused to machine questionable materials after I had some safety related incidents on my lathe.

Side note, when I attach one of these shrouds to a barrel, it can probably double as "beat stick", where the barrels would warp before anything happened to the shrouds. Very solid 👍