Anyone Interested in Titanium / Heat Anodized Parts? (FX Maverick / Impact)?

 

Looking to see if anyone here would be interested in some one-off upgrades for the FX Maverick. The other day, someone messaged me and asked if I could make them a new custom metal lever handle for their FX Impact, and after some back and forth I finally had the idea that I had been looking for to upgrade my FX Maverick's lever handle using titanium.

I've had good results in the past with heat anodizing titanium parts (which can always be polished out with something like a green Scotchbrite pad). So I made a little test handle using my very last little scrap piece of titanium, and that gave me some other ideas that I'm anxious to make:

1. Carbon fiber shrouds with heat anodized threaded titanium endcaps - I think these would look bad ass!!! I already have some great ideas for the design.

2. Full titanium shroud with titanium endcaps - these could be pretty awesome with some heat coloring! Definitely lots of room for creativity and I could tailor them however desired.

3. Lever handles - I find that I like the deep grooved handles the best (you can always slap some o-rings around them for added grip if need be), but I can also knurl them.

Personal note, the additional length of my new handle totally changes the cycling action. I've used this rifle in the past 5 NRL22 matches, and I already had a solid picture of the geometry that I wanted for a new lever. 


4. Titanium cocking rod and rod guide - would be a cool / subtle accent with some of the other upgrades. I broke my factory cocking rod guide one day at the range, so this IMO is a worthy functional / durability upgrade as well!

5. Titanium pellet / slug probes - I made a slug probe from titanium last ~spring in .30cal (incredible performance upgrade!), but I can make them in any caliber.

6. Replacement extension rods for the K&L stocks - would be another cool and subtle aesthetic (I'm planning to replace mine with heat anodized titanium)

It's tough taking photos today (dark and rainy day here in the PNW), but here's some examples of the burnt / oxidized color spectrums that appear in the surface with some heat. My lever handle is just a rough scrap that I grooved, so the bumper case is a better representation of what a machined finish looks like (I dig that lighter straw greyish tone personally):

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Again, the coolest aspect of doing this with Ti vs. other metals is being able to "wipe the slate clean" with a green scrub pad and reapplying heat to change the appearance.

Costs - no idea yet, but it won't be economical lol! The materials and carbide tooling are expensive right now and these take some time to machine. I'll have a better idea of cost once I know how many parts to make.

Timing - looking to get the ball rolling immediately, My time is going to be VERY limited once I go back to work later next month, so I'm only going to do this now. Ping me if you want in and let me know what you're interested in.

Merry Xmas to all!


 
You aren't "anodizing" the material..! Anodizing is a chemical process that takes time, various chemical baths, AND money.

You are just putting heat to it, and the heat...does the coloring ! That's NOT anodizing. While titanium can...be anodized, it's not done as you speak, and it's also not cheap. It's also not very durable. Some consecrated rubbing with a dry thumb would eventually remove the color.

I have an older car that uses a hood prop rod. I made one out of titanium. I had to bend it in a few places. I liked the color that it left from the heat, so like you, I warmed most of the rod to produce some nice colors. And, as you say, that coloring is also...not very durable. It does scratch easily.

Also note, titanium is slightly heavier than aluminum.



Mike
 
 

You aren't "anodizing" the material..! Anodizing is a chemical process that takes time, various chemical baths, AND money.

You are just putting heat to it, and the heat...does the coloring ! That's NOT anodizing. While titanium can...be anodized, it's not done as you speak, and it's also not cheap. It's also not very durable. Some consecrated rubbing with a dry thumb would eventually remove the color.

I have an older car that uses a hood prop rod. I made one out of titanium. I had to bend it in a few places. I liked the color that it left from the heat, so like you, I warmed most of the rod to produce some nice colors. And, as you say, that coloring is also...not very durable. It does scratch easily.

Also note, titanium is slightly heavier than aluminum.



Mike

LOL, well I wasn't expecting a know it all type to chime in and "correct" me for some time, but I'm not surprised you got me so quickly. Go ahead and pat yourself in the back Mike, job well done!

For the record, I can anodize the parts or "heat oxidize" the parts, depending on what is desired. The latter just looks cooler, and as I've said can be erased and redone pretty easily.


 
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depending on what your setup at home looks like, this is another way to do this quickly that i was going to try out on some knives at some point. just an alternative that looks pretty easy!


It can be done with some trial and error (voltage / solutions / polishing technique / parts prep). You can also shop around for an old electroplating box / rectifier that has the DC voltage ranges for Ti. Found one on Craigslist several years ago that I got with the intentions of chrome plating parts, but I wasn't really setup to electroplate larger auto parts.
 
 

Sounds like you already know about this method then lol. Thank you for the tips! I haven’t seen brake cleaner recommended yet, but it sounds like you’ve got some actual real world experience, so I’ll take the advice

It's nasty stuff, but it's very effective for cleaning most metals without leaving residue behind!
 
Well these were definitely not cheap to make, but this is the first shroud designed for a 600mm FX barrel system..

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Weight overall is 175 grams..

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Wound up using some high modulus CF tubing from Rock West. It cuts VERY clean with carbide on the lathe (zero fraying or issues like cheaper overseas made tubes).
 
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Nice machining on that shroud! Beautiful piece of craftsmanship. Yes, those cheap tubes splinter very easily if you get overzealous when cutting them.

Thanks! This carbon fiber tubing is SOLID, but it also has some precision tolerances that I was looking for (it took me a few months to decide on the tubing specs).

It was time consuming getting everything concentric. The muzzle endcap has (3) bores and everything is machined to be "press fit" inside and out.

For this specific "FX compatible" shroud (and other 14mm OD barrels with a 1/2-20), I made a gauge from steel and went in to the titanium with a micro tool for the larger counterbore. I removed a few mics of material at a time (all the way to the internet shoulder of the 1/2-20 threading bore) so that the end of the 14mm barrel snugs into the endcap before it threads in.

I also added o-ring grooves for 14x1.5mm internal Viton / duro 90 o-rings, but man the precision fit feels superb when I slide them over the barrels!

That thread protector came out pretty cool. I had made a knurled protector, but my knurled were dull and I wasn't real happy with it. So I figured out a clever way to chuck the protector using two hex nuts clamped down on a 1/2-20 cap screw. The hex nuts were aligned in a way that allowed me to easily index the part in a little vise on my mill so I could just use the Y-axis and mill 1mm deep with a 3/8" carbide mill:

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P.S. .. One last note - the shrouds just barely tension down when bottomed out on the barrels. I've found that tensioning them down any more results in stretching the FX barrel systems, which relieves liner compression in undesirable and unpredictable ways!!!

This design mitigates harmonic issues, but it also prevents the barrels from getting bent. I've had a killer idea for a forward barrel support for the Mavs for quite some time, but I have to hang up manual machining projects for a while (looking at CNC'ing from here on out).
 
Here’s one idea for you and that’s the valve knobs on the impact and the valve knob stem. Maybe add a 5th line out since some folks go out past the 4th line, and maybe halfway in between each line a dot or a slight detent crater. 


on the valve knob keep it looking like the M3 with the acorn look as it’s easier to grasp but on the rear edge of the valve knob closest to the trigger block some reference/index lines of various lengths like the MK2 valve knob had.



of course the innards of the M3 valve knob would be transferred over to your design, if you decide to do it
 
There are a whole slew of things one could make and sell for Mavs. I know there are plans for many things, but it just seems nothing is coming to market for these and are taking a backseat to all things Impact. Personally think titanium is overkill for most pieces unless you need high strength and lightweight (like valve pin maybe). If someone actually was making Mav carbon fiber shrouds with tensioning I am betting you they would be busy. Obviously aluminum would be a lot cheaper there and probably all that would be necessary. Hammer weights would also be one that people might jump on. 

As far as titanium, I would think the actual cocking linkages would be a much better use for the price incurred. .