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Anyone have a springer this consistent MOOOHAHAHA

How did you tune the TX Mustafamalikza if you don't me asking?

Good question! So as I mentioned earlier, the secret with mine is that I used GPL-205 lube (krytox). It’s just not my sample that was consistent, if you go to the first page and look at @deerstalker’s Weihrauch…you can see the same consistency with his HW95. Before starting, I used a polish to polish the internals specified in the schematic. The polish I used is called “Happich Simichrome Polish.” I used a double grease on the spring; one from V-Mach (moly) and another that I bought which is that GPL-205 (Krytox). I went light with the lube other than the spring which I coated quite heavily with 2 parts mix Krytox and moly applied separately. There is more Krytox applied near the guide rod. Again, you results may differ if you don’t have a v-mach kit. These steps should get you very close to my results even without the V-Mach though.
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One thing to consider, is the Krytox doesn't mix and rejects other lubes. It doesn't react with them, it just doesn't mix and basically compromises the other lube. 

What was your logic behind adding the moly lube with the Krytox? 


The Krytox I purchased is mixed with molybdenum...I don’t see how it would not mix well. Besides as I said, I didn’t actually mix the two together. They were applied separately. I clarified something in my latest forum post. My thought behind the application of the Krytox was that Krytox is a little thicker as a grease. The v-mach grease I have is very smooth (like soft serve ice cream). I thought using a thicker grease (like Krytox) near the parts that seemed loose like the spring guide rod would make for a more smoother action and shooting cycle. This is just a basic idea of what I thought. I could go into more detail, but it’s redundant. Just do it...if the results are unsatisfactory, then lament the frustrations.
 
One thing to consider, is the Krytox doesn't mix and rejects other lubes. It doesn't react with them, it just doesn't mix and basically compromises the other lube. 

What was your logic behind adding the moly lube with the Krytox? 


The Krytox I purchased is mixed with molybdenum...I don’t see how it would not mix well. Besides as I said, I didn’t actually mix the two together. They were applied separately. I clarified something in my latest forum post. My thought behind the application of the Krytox was that Krytox is a little thicker as a grease. The v-mach grease I have is very smooth (like soft serve ice cream). I thought using a thicker grease (like Krytox) near the parts that seemed loose like the spring guide rod would make for a more smoother action and shooting cycle. This is just a basic idea of what I thought. I could go into more detail, but it’s redundant. Just do it...if the results are unsatisfactory, then lament the frustrations.

Just curious, I've been there and done that. What I found was you can put the grease wherever you want it, and it's just going to go everywhere anyway. It's not going to stay where you put it. It migrates everywhere. 

And the krytox that contains moly, is fortified with moly powder, the solids, and not moly grease. Moly grease is moly powder suspended in thick oil, and the oil is what doesn't mix and burns off as dieseling. 
 
One thing to consider, is the Krytox doesn't mix and rejects other lubes. It doesn't react with them, it just doesn't mix and basically compromises the other lube. 

What was your logic behind adding the moly lube with the Krytox? 


The Krytox I purchased is mixed with molybdenum...I don’t see how it would not mix well. Besides as I said, I didn’t actually mix the two together. They were applied separately. I clarified something in my latest forum post. My thought behind the application of the Krytox was that Krytox is a little thicker as a grease. The v-mach grease I have is very smooth (like soft serve ice cream). I thought using a thicker grease (like Krytox) near the parts that seemed loose like the spring guide rod would make for a more smoother action and shooting cycle. This is just a basic idea of what I thought. I could go into more detail, but it’s redundant. Just do it...if the results are unsatisfactory, then lament the frustrations.

Just curious, I've been there and done that. What I found was you can put the grease wherever you want it, and it's just going to go everywhere anyway. It's not going to stay where you put it. It migrates everywhere. 

And the krytox that contains moly, is fortified with moly powder, the solids, and not moly grease. Moly grease is moly powder suspended in thick oil, and the oil is what doesn't mix and burns off as dieseling.

Actually with this method, I only have gotten one shot that has dieseled. It’s weird. Works for me though hehe. This is why I thought I would share. Also in my experience, the grease does not displace too much from its original spot (after all when you regrease…the grease is still where ya left it). That Krytox is some tough stuff. I doubt it’ll move anywhere at all. Originally the v-mach I got was from a fellow local shooter from our air rifle club who had put Krytox on the spring guide (it’s delrin I believe)…that sucker wouldn’t budge because the Krytox had become some kind of tough paste. Time will tell I guess. Rifles like these just get better as you shoot it more and more. Thanks for the extra info though. Good stuff!
 
A break barrel as consistent as yours is in my collection.

What break barrel do you want to compare with my break barrels that are as consistent or more consistent than your planted targets?

I never bought a TX and never will. It is only because HW makes break barrels better. Say the HW98? Say the HW80? Say the HW50's I have drilled to .20 caliber each from AOA recently; I bought the first and the last of THOSE.

But I understand your enthusiasm with your mooohahahaha kick.

Try a D54 Recoiless in .20 tuned and the whole break barrel thing is gone to a decent sidelever capable of more accuracy and performance than a TX.

I am trying to get your moohahahaha statement revised with the excellent HW98 to improve your own experiences beyond the simple TX200 and any others like it. German or English or Turkey or China or any other manufacturer trying to make air rifles do what an HW98 does everytime anyplace anywhere.

Kindly said while I watch your smug outlook on a TX200 v HW98.

Try the HW98 AGAINST your TX and then you'll get rid of it.

John
 
A break barrel as consistent as yours is in my collection.

What break barrel do you want to compare with my break barrels that are as consistent or more consistent than your planted targets?

I never bought a TX and never will. It is only because HW makes break barrels better. Say the HW98? Say the HW80? Say the HW50's I have drilled to .20 caliber each from AOA recently; I bought the first and the last of THOSE.

But I understand your enthusiasm with your mooohahahaha kick.

Try a D54 Recoiless in .20 tuned and the whole break barrel thing is gone to a decent sidelever capable of more accuracy and performance than a TX.

I am trying to get your moohahahaha statement revised with the excellent HW98 to improve your own experiences beyond the simple TX200 and any others like it. German or English or Turkey or China or any other manufacturer trying to make air rifles do what an HW98 does everytime anyplace anywhere.

Kindly said while I watch your smug outlook on a TX200 v HW98.

Try the HW98 AGAINST your TX and then you'll get rid of it.

John

The HW98 is undoubtedly a great rifle and I hope I have the pleasure to own one someday soon. I’d say that the Pro Sport and HW98 are competitors to each other. Although, I must say that the shooter also plays a big part with a springer. So, at best, the only scientific way to prove that an tuned HW98 is better is by quantitative data (i.e. chrony numbers). But yeah, as you pointed out, the barrel also plays a huge role.
 
A break barrel as consistent as yours is in my collection.

What break barrel do you want to compare with my break barrels that are as consistent or more consistent than your planted targets?

I never bought a TX and never will. It is only because HW makes break barrels better. Say the HW98? Say the HW80? Say the HW50's I have drilled to .20 caliber each from AOA recently; I bought the first and the last of THOSE.

But I understand your enthusiasm with your mooohahahaha kick.

Try a D54 Recoiless in .20 tuned and the whole break barrel thing is gone to a decent sidelever capable of more accuracy and performance than a TX.

I am trying to get your moohahahaha statement revised with the excellent HW98 to improve your own experiences beyond the simple TX200 and any others like it. German or English or Turkey or China or any other manufacturer trying to make air rifles do what an HW98 does everytime anyplace anywhere.

Kindly said while I watch your smug outlook on a TX200 v HW98.

Try the HW98 AGAINST your TX and then you'll get rid of it.

John

The HW98 is undoubtedly a great rifle and I hope I have the pleasure to own one someday soon. I’d say that the Pro Sport and HW98 are competitors to each other. Although, I must say that the shooter also plays a big part with a springer. So, at best, the only scientific way to prove that an tuned HW98 is better is by quantitative data (i.e. chrony numbers). But yeah, as you pointed out, the barrel also plays a huge role.


Right.

I remember when the TX200 came out as "the other side" from HW and I was already biased in favor of them.

The time it came out it was a nice replacement for the usual stuff about the same price and selling fast in Straight Shooters when they were in St. Cloud.

I eventually got an underlever HW97K-T in .20 and actually felt non plus about it while wondering what rifle to get next which was the Left Handed Stock version of the HW80 in .20; and then the HW98 .20 and the D54 .20.

I would rather not have spent the money on the HW97K-T .20 because I have other .20s that do a LOT better.

The underlever design accompanied with the the extra motions of an underlever compared to an efficient break-barrel make me desire the underlever no more!


 
Enjoy your TX and remember it is the winningest FT rifle and virtually all the top performers are underlevers also. You'll never have to worry about a worn detent of a brake barrel that can cause poor lockup say 98's, never worry about side to side barrel play with worn washers or loosening pivot bolts say 80's, barrel droop, metal to metal contact of the piston and compression tube walls say 50's, no excessive torque due to the TX's rotating piston, walnut stock option, superior safety with anti- beartrap, and good weight for stability