Anyone ever have a Tank leak not gauge

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airgunmike56

airgunmike56

Member
Aug 4, 2018
1,896
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Odessa,Texas, United States
I have already ask this once but now I am pretty sure its my TANK,,, Not gauge, So I am asking anyone have the tank leak?

OK let me explain I am on my second set of gages, My first set of gauges that came with the scott tank I tried to put an extra large condom on it, Had to put two of them on, I also did the soap stuff on the gauges, NOTHING, Got to be the gauges ordered a second set of gauges , Cleaned out tank. Lots of snot in it about 1/2 cup , Put set of gauges on aired up to 4500 PSI Leaked down to 3000 in about a week or so, Aired back up soaped up real good at 4500 PSI Negative on the soap
,,, Got a rubber glove
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checked it for leaks, Blowed it up a little,,, Placed on bottle taped the snot out of it, ITS SEALED,,,, almost 12 hours NOTHING..... I made sure the glove covered the bottle neck and threading ...What's the THINK TANK say about this one......
 
airgunmike56 sent you a P.M. > I 'am no tank guru but form what I've seen & read these tanks have a alum. liner then wrapped, so I can't believe the tank is the culprit .It has to be at the neck of the tank unless you got lucky & got a second bad valve .Do you see any of the wrapping separated or large chips ? What brand of tank is it ? Also take the protective sock off so you have a better inspection . Darell
 
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There is little to no chance that your tank will be leaking from the shell. A two-gallon bucket will be enough to cover the neck and valve if you invert the tank and dip it. If you have a leak, bubbles will come out. If you are still convinced that the tank is somehow leaking, you can submerge 1/2 at a time. A laundry tub or a five-gallon bucket should be sufficient. I wouldn't be too worried about the gauge. If it is an SCBA type valve, it should be watertight. If not it will dry out fairly quickly anyway. 
 
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OK guys I taped the neck and gauges with latex gloves and taped the snot out of it electrical tape , Duck tape and then box tape.. From 4500 PSI to 3000 psi the gloves never got bigger, Now your trash can idea fell through as the can had a slit in it and a major water leak, I did soap the tank down with dawn soap and a little water, No leaks seen, Now I am not a rocket scientist, But I know 4500 PSI down to 3000 PSI is a LOT of air...

I am going to fill it up again from 3000 PSI to 4500 psi tape and wrap the gauges with a glove and place the whole darn thing in a black plastic bag and seal the bag,,,,, 

Oh, and what kind of air reading is on the gauges its not bar or psi?

Mike 
 
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Tank could be leaking. I have one that was leaking through the carbon because of water damage to the liner. I used a spay bottle with soapy water and it wasn't hard to find. 

Tank wasn't mine. Was a friends and filled only at the shop he bought the tank from for 5 years. I then put it on my lathe and cut the top off. This is the iside of the tank

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I noticed my Drager SCBA was leaking a few months ago and my fix was to crank the shut off with more authority. That seemed to do the trick until just this weekend when I noticed that it starting losing air again. So... convinced it was probably the valve seat I did some online research and was able to order new one from an outfit called August Industries and just installed it today. I will be able to check my fix out as soon as I get some tank to valve O-rings I ordered (supposed to be delivered in the mail today) so I can reinstall my valve on the tank and take it to get refilled. I did see on the internet that some other SCBA's such as Scott may use this same valve seat so that may be something to consider if you discover that is your problem. 

One confession - when I took my valve off the tank I noticed the tank to valve oring was pretty buggered up. I assume they did that when the hydro tested it about a year or so ago. I will be replacing that obviously, but if everything works OK, I will not know for sure if it was the valve seat or O-ring that was the problem. But I do believe both had significant signs of wear and needed replacement anyway. Total outlay will be under $19 for the seat and oring. Stay tuned...

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Valve disassembled



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Valve seat, new at top, old on bottom

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You can see the old valve seat on the bottom is fairly indented from hitting the valve base. I noticed some metallic marks in the valve base where it had bottomed out, probably from my over tightening.


 
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Just an update from post above, it appears my scba valve rebuild was successful and the tank is holding air again.


i used a 22 x 3.5 mm oring for the tank top valve which I purchased from the Oring store. Thanks to @Centercut for posting that info in an old thread!

The valve seat comes in a Sherwood YVA line valve 6000 psi repair kit available from several sources online, I got mine here: https://www.augustindustries.com/product/repair-kit-for-standard-line-valves/
 
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