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Anyone else have slack in their cocking linkage for their FX?

Define what you mean by slack. I had some play in my MKI Impact and some in my Maverick, but those are different systems and for the latter I made a tighter tolerance titanium lever and replaced my bent 4mm cocking rod with an oversized 5/32" music wire rod that I threaded (not fun threading a thin Rockwell C60 rod with a 3-jaw chuck).
 
Define what you mean by slack. I had some play in my MKI Impact and some in my Maverick, but those are different systems and for the latter I made a tighter tolerance titanium lever and replaced my bent 4mm cocking rod with an oversized 5/32" music wire rod that I threaded (not fun threading a thin Rockwell C60 rod with a 3-jaw chuck).

By slack I mean the lever has play and can be moved in it’s vertical axis more than I would like. Should be tight with little to no play at all. I sourced the play to the furthest hinge toward the back of the gun where there is a pin.
 
Define what you mean by slack. I had some play in my MKI Impact and some in my Maverick, but those are different systems and for the latter I made a tighter tolerance titanium lever and replaced my bent 4mm cocking rod with an oversized 5/32" music wire rod that I threaded (not fun threading a thin Rockwell C60 rod with a 3-jaw chuck).

How did you make them?
 
Define what you mean by slack. I had some play in my MKI Impact and some in my Maverick, but those are different systems and for the latter I made a tighter tolerance titanium lever and replaced my bent 4mm cocking rod with an oversized 5/32" music wire rod that I threaded (not fun threading a thin Rockwell C60 rod with a 3-jaw chuck).

How did you make them?

I posted a thread here somewhere on the titanium overhaul that I did on my Maverick and made several posts on Instagram. Made the lever handle from 3/8" 6AL-4V Ti and made the actual lever component with a 1.25" rod of that same material. Did it all with my little custom 6x20" milling machine and my 10x22" lathe, but I'd never make another one by hand again. There was waaaay too much time involved and I dulled 5-6 $50-100 carbide end mills (screwed up the first workpiece when it was nearly finished after 2 solid days of work). The materials that I used also weren't weren't cheap. Hit all of the tolerances that I was going for though, and it feels more like a firearm now or some precision machined industrial component.

My Maverick's original factory lever also used to pop out when I'd shoot NRL22 / PRS matches, so I came up with an idea that solved the problem in spades with a little custom music wire compression spring that locks down my lever nice and secure. Kind of hard to explain how it actually works, but it free floats on the cocking rod in between the lever connector and the rod guide (I broke the original aluminum rod guide before all of these mods and made a titanium replacement). When the lever returns to the forward position, the arc of the lever's motion crosses the centerline (direction of the barrel) and it "over travels" before it stops. This little ~3 coil sprint is enough to add SIGNIFICANT resistance that opposes the lever when it opens - which keeps it firmly in place. Posted a video on IG that demos the locking force - https://www.instagram.com/tv/CYrr8Njg53L/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

I also had some issues with the factory lever linkage pin popping out, so I went ahead and beefed all of them up with some crazy pins that are definitely not coming out without a hammer and punch lol