I have an HW 77K, an HW99S and an HW30. I notice now the internal spring guide is delrin? Or at least synthetic. This HW 99 is very smooth to shoot untouched. I put a TBT kit in the 30 and can’t notice a difference. Thoughts?
Any reason to tune a Weihrauch?
- Thread starter manxman
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I've only had a few different HW guns, so I'm surely no expert. My HW 55 I got used and it's probably the smoothest shooting springer I've encountered. My .22 R9 shot like a tuned gun right out of the box, just a nice 'thunk'. Later on, I got a used .20 R9 for a relative and while it's accurate it is rather 'twangy' with a fair amount of spring noise. This might go away with a lot of use. So my advice would be leave it alone and shoot it unless it's super twangy and that annoys you.
The HW30 might benefit from a plastic insert in the cocking linkage so it doesn't gall the air tube.
The HW30 might benefit from a plastic insert in the cocking linkage so it doesn't gall the air tube.
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Spray some motorcycle chain lube on to the spring via the cocking lever slot. Do not over do it as it may cause the gun to diesel. Or if you like taking your guns to bits, take out the spring and give it and the spring guide a spray. This will get rid of any twang and totally transform the gun.
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Good lord yes. A Vortek tune kit, installed properly, makes a big difference. Just honing, polishing, and damping the spring with a heavier lube makes a difference.
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Weihrauch build very nice springers, and if your are shooting well, in my opinion, unless you have a burning desire to spend money for likely no significant gain, don’t “tune” them. I would certainly NOT be spraying chain lube onto the spring.
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I notice a difference in any gun back from John Thomas. Way better. No twang, easier on scope, more accurate/consistent/easier to shoot/better trigger. No gun I ever owned except gas Rams wasn't hugely different from a good tune. Buttons or if you have a machine shop drilled buttons or... Better yet, I want a ringed piston, Sunnen honned, fully done up barrel harmonically tuned Springer from Watts but that'll be heirloom quality pretty penny rifle in a custom stock that'll cost as much as most rifles. Yeah. Real FULL tune mods cost as much as some rifles. I have a master at everything friend but even he would want at least 5-7 hundred for a stock built for a lefty or ambi with no pattern. Show stock would be boiled linseed to pop grain, 20 coats of permalyn for durability, polished with Rottenstone. That's days if not weeks of drying, polishing, wet sanding. Corcoran did nice DIY patterns but no more that I know of. The inside can have just as many improvements. If I had a machine shop I'd be working on engineering recoiless Springer's or undertaking the likes of John Whiscombes work.
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Shoot it, shoot it, shoot it. They get smoother as they break in, but that may take a couple thousand shots. I don’t doubt that a brand new gun will feel smoother with a tune, however.
I was curious, so I put a Vortek kit into an already broken-in HW30 and there was maybe a little difference in firing behavior. It certainly didnt need the tune, in retrospect.
I was curious, so I put a Vortek kit into an already broken-in HW30 and there was maybe a little difference in firing behavior. It certainly didnt need the tune, in retrospect.
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Not so much with the models listed but with several sold in the U.S. they do benefit greatly from a full tune. I am thinking most the models used in FT not the lowest powered models they tend to be so tame as to notice little difference except the trigger which isnt bad out of the box.
John
John
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I was basically forced to “tune” my relatively new HW97 after the power mysteriously dropped. When i opened the gun i found the spring in 4 pieces! I ordered a Vortek kit based on blogs and watched a bunch of youtubes and its all seemed pretty straightforward. Im sure a real tuner could have done some voodoo magic, but the gun shoots pretty good. In fact I won my class at a little FT meet last week, although there were just 8 of us! The spring break is a total mystery. Never EVER dry fired, but no sleeve on factory spring so maybe it spins and wobbles in there causing the failure?
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I think I’ll shoot them for a few thousand pellets and see how they break in. Thanks for the comments
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At the very least I open them up degrease and re-lube, polish spring ends and trigger surfaces, possibly add a spacer or 2 then test again. If things are not the way I like them I'll get a kit.
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If you're satisfied with the shot cycle and performance I really don't think tuning is NECESSARY.
I've bought a few HW springers over the years such as a .177 HW50, .177 HW35, .177 Beeman R10, .177 Beeman R9, .20 Beeman R9, .177 HW95. ALL would put 7.9 grain boxed CPLs into a 1/2" CTC group (or better) at 30 yards straight from the factory package after an initial bore clean and a few dozen shots to season the bore. LOL....here is an old pic of the first patch pulled through one of the .177 Beeman R9s I bought (the price tag gives an idea of how long ago that was).........
Here is the first patch pulled through the bore of a new spare .177 HW95 barrel I bought a couple years ago............
As a side note, the .177 HW95 shot boxed CPLs at 880 fps after the bore clean which is about 30fps higher than I like so I deliberately detuned it to shoot CPLs at about 850 fps when I stripped out the factory dieseling "dinosaur grease" and relubed with non-dieseling Dupont Krytox..........
Here is a pic of the internals pulled straight from the new HW95 showing the tan factory grease...........
Anywhoo.....I personally prefer my twang/vibration free home rolled spring kit based on ARH springs that do indeed last longer than factory springs so I go through the effort to "de-tune" my HW95 & Beeman R9 by replacing the factory spring with an ARH offering. LOL, I have a couple HW factory springs in my parts bin right now with only a few dozen test shots on then.
I've bought a few HW springers over the years such as a .177 HW50, .177 HW35, .177 Beeman R10, .177 Beeman R9, .20 Beeman R9, .177 HW95. ALL would put 7.9 grain boxed CPLs into a 1/2" CTC group (or better) at 30 yards straight from the factory package after an initial bore clean and a few dozen shots to season the bore. LOL....here is an old pic of the first patch pulled through one of the .177 Beeman R9s I bought (the price tag gives an idea of how long ago that was).........
Here is the first patch pulled through the bore of a new spare .177 HW95 barrel I bought a couple years ago............
As a side note, the .177 HW95 shot boxed CPLs at 880 fps after the bore clean which is about 30fps higher than I like so I deliberately detuned it to shoot CPLs at about 850 fps when I stripped out the factory dieseling "dinosaur grease" and relubed with non-dieseling Dupont Krytox..........
Here is a pic of the internals pulled straight from the new HW95 showing the tan factory grease...........
Anywhoo.....I personally prefer my twang/vibration free home rolled spring kit based on ARH springs that do indeed last longer than factory springs so I go through the effort to "de-tune" my HW95 & Beeman R9 by replacing the factory spring with an ARH offering. LOL, I have a couple HW factory springs in my parts bin right now with only a few dozen test shots on then.
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With HW rifles I say just shoot around 4 tins of pellets. They get better the more you shoot. I have shot my HW rifles side by side with top tuned HW rifles and thought my broke in factory HW rifles shot better. Kind of an eye opener really. It made me realize that by just shooting a bunch things smooth out on there own, springs take some set, etc. This is more HW specific in my experience. An RWS34 for example I find will get a little better with a tune no matter how much they are shot.
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I'm 50:50 with mine.
The first was a HW50s-shot that thing for probably 6000 shots before I opened it up. It was still shooting fine, maybe slightly weak, but the only reason it got a tune was my curiosity to see if I could improve it and/increase the power.
The second was a HW77k. Fought that jerk of a rifle for about 8 months. Finally opened it up to find a broken main spring and melted/cracked/split piston seal. 180 degree change in the 77k after I tuned it, pretty sure it came to me with a damaged piston seal which ultimately lead to early demise of the spring. I wish id have opened it up sooner.
The first was a HW50s-shot that thing for probably 6000 shots before I opened it up. It was still shooting fine, maybe slightly weak, but the only reason it got a tune was my curiosity to see if I could improve it and/increase the power.
The second was a HW77k. Fought that jerk of a rifle for about 8 months. Finally opened it up to find a broken main spring and melted/cracked/split piston seal. 180 degree change in the 77k after I tuned it, pretty sure it came to me with a damaged piston seal which ultimately lead to early demise of the spring. I wish id have opened it up sooner.
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I think I’ll go down the route of opening them up and cleaning. Maybe put a sleeve in and a couple of slip washers too.
Thanks for the info chaps
Thanks for the info chaps
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those break in sooner than dianas , but still - try running at least 500 rds thru which ever one you'd focus on first.... the one hw springer that i've noticed the biggest positive difference with is the .20 cal beeman r9 coupled with vortek kit....but do you live in europe ? i see we get the hw50s here in the states....ive always wanted an hw 99 , but someone told me that it's the same gun as a model 50s.... now the one .177 cal hw50s i had - i bought from nhat here after he had installed a vortek kit and put a set back trigger on.........it's the most accurate awesome light, beautiful, easy to cock / shoot / maneuver 12 ftlb rifle ive had -- perfect for suburban back yards.... my boss got hold of it and hasnt bought an airgun since. last i heard , it was ten for ten on squirrel patrol with head shots. but do a slot tune - like someone said above.....use about a teaspoon of some heavy lube and use a plastic zip-tie to get the lube around the coils thru the cocking slot atfer stock is removed.....but dont put too much....it'll slow your gun and cause dieseling (sux).... the slot-tune is a 'down and dirty' way to counter twang..... it's not a proper thing , but works easily in a pinch.... thus , slut tune .. .
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