Huben Any issues or problems with Huben gk1 please share your experience
- Thread starter windowtintz
- Start date
I would try bumping up power. Is it using a magnetic speedloader gate? Maybe try removing that as well. Which version barrel adapter is being used?
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Speedloader is not magnetic just standard 3d printed aftermarked one. My huben adapter and moderator arrived some days ago not yet tested. I'll try higher velocities this weekend. Thanks for input!
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With my setup my Notos can do 400 fps CPHP accurately but GK1 cannot. 550 fps is good with GK1, I tend to end up at 400, 550 or 710 FPS when adjusting. Im not holding the chrony for any higher fps.
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Way better results today. I increased the velocity 800+ FPS (25 grain JSB pellets) and this is result at 38 yards. In the middle are the first 17 shots and than 3 groups with 5 shots. Not perfect but getting there. 
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I agree with longdog on the JTS pellets in the Huben platform.
I'm a huge JSB fan in all of my guns, for a very long time.
However, I found that the softer lead of the JSB's, tend to get distorted as they rotate around the fairly violent, mag indexing operation upon firing. My accuracy was OK, but not impressive.
Then trying the JTS's much harder lead composition, seemed to produce far less pellet distortion, resulting in smoother operation, and tighter groups in both my K1 & GK1, in .22 caliber.
I was surprised at the difference they made in my Huben's.
YMMV
Have fun.
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Turns out my local gunsmith didn't install the barrel on my GK1 properly. It's not screwed in far enough, leaving too much space between the barrel and the magazine.
Does anyone know if it's difficult to install and align the barrel on the GK1 yourself? Do I need advanced tools for the alignment?
Does anyone know if it's difficult to install and align the barrel on the GK1 yourself? Do I need advanced tools for the alignment?
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Seems like ya screwed the barrel in till it touched the mag then back off and 1/8th turn. I got a shorty kit for my .25 when I tried installing the barrel he sent it didn't have enough threads to install. I ended sending it back and Kelley fixed it.
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Only difficult to align if you take out the 2 screws that align barrel to magazine. Otherwise loosen nut, tighten barrel, backoff 1/8, tighten nut without miving barrel, confirm magazine free rotation.
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So i noticed the latest closing valve is tapered on the bottom. I did install it and dry shot once and then it dumped on the next shot. I am wondering now installing it without the washer ??
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It started to slowly let out all the air after a shot. Reset the striker 3 times before taking it apart again. Brand new v3+ valve was sticky and difficult to cycle. I soaked it in Ballistol and got it to freeup but it still wont collapse fully. I had two V3+ kits so i installed the 2nd valve. I also noticed that the latest spring was 4-5mm shorter. I was going to install a v3 spring but realized the striker depth is deeper. I stacked up 5mm worth of small washers and put them inside the striker and using the shorter v3 spring.
Set to 30 fpe it shoots great through 1 mag before it spikes in velocity. Goes from 10-15 fps over 20 shots to 80-90 fps at 30 shots (ending at 20 mpa)
My 25 for comparison is set to 40 fpe, 1 mag 9-10 fps .. 2mags 25-30 fps (ending at 15 mpa)
Ive ran the 22 at 15 fpe, 30, and 40 fpe. I can get more shots obviously with the lower FPE but it should get more. Instead 20-25 mpa depending on power setting the velocity spikes and will eventually dump way before it supposed to.
I lost the new closing valve. I ordered another one and going to try that again. Only other thing i want to try is removing the washer umder the valve. Everything else has been swapped out or replaced.
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More pictures are better. I am hesitant to reply anything because I have the original version and I don’t know what is different about v3 and v3+. I do know somewhere in the changes that they went from using a star washer on the closing valve to machining the stem vent into the valve (iirc). Others may be hesitant as well, not knowing these version changes.
It does seem you are battling a couple of issues. The spring not resetting the opening valve without adding washers…my question there would be is the buffer in good shape and why would the new valve come with shorter spring? Pictures comparing old to new may help.
Another concerning area is the power adjuster, oring, stem and how freely can it move? Condition? Lubed?
Anyway, I hope you get it sorted, these kinds of issues sure can be frustrating.
Dave
It does seem you are battling a couple of issues. The spring not resetting the opening valve without adding washers…my question there would be is the buffer in good shape and why would the new valve come with shorter spring? Pictures comparing old to new may help.
Another concerning area is the power adjuster, oring, stem and how freely can it move? Condition? Lubed?
Anyway, I hope you get it sorted, these kinds of issues sure can be frustrating.
Dave
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