Huben Any issues or problems with Huben gk1 please share your experience

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JDGriz said:
The barrel shroud base is not fully parallel to the bore axis and tightening the barrel nut (or moderator adapter) bends the barrel to the side, a little bit (about 1-2mm, to be precise). In other words, shroud seating in the receiver make is sit pointing slightly to the side. This is on my specific V3 in .25. It is still quite accurate and has been so far, but there was/is a definite jump to the side (recoil to the right in my case), at high powers. Not sure if it was this way originally, or maybe something got crushed a bit, along the way.
I only found this out because a scope mounted on the shroud, which was optically centered, produced a POI of about 20 moa to the left.
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I did a write-up on this barrel nut to shroud interface, as it actually can kick the long moderator enough to the side to create a clipping issue. My fix was to lightly sand the face of the hole flat using a disk of wet dry paper and the barrel nut wrapped with tape so it fit centered tight in the shroud while sanding. It's in post 32 above.

Huben - Any issues or problems with Huben gk1 please share your experience

As a follow-up to this, I finally was able to contact the Huben factory yesterday of this issue and I have received an acknowledgement. We will see what, if anything this brings.. I received a reply from the factory> > > see below: Dear Steve, Thanks for choosing Huben GK1! Thank you very...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
 
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Airgun-hobbyist said:
I did a write-up on this barrel nut to shroud interface, as it actually can kick the long moderator enough to the side to create a clipping issue. My fix was to lightly sand the face of the hole flat using a disk of wet dry paper and the barrel nut wrapped with tape so it fit centered tight in the shroud while sanding. It's in post 32 above.

Huben - Any issues or problems with Huben gk1 please share your experience

As a follow-up to this, I finally was able to contact the Huben factory yesterday of this issue and I have received an acknowledgement. We will see what, if anything this brings.. I received a reply from the factory> > > see below: Dear Steve, Thanks for choosing Huben GK1! Thank you very...
www.airgunnation.com www.airgunnation.com
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<deleted> it was a scope problem
 
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FLgunner said:
So far the only issue I've had is with slugs that don't fit tight enough in the magazine. I have not had any jams because if I can't spin the magazines a couple complete revolutions without a slug getting hung up, I empty the magazine and don't even try to shoot them. The .254 slugs from NSA do work and actually group pretty decent at 20 yards. I did change the loading gate to one of the flip up models to make loading easier. Other than that, no issues thus far...
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Try AVS 254 42grain flat base.
 
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Having now disassembled and re- assembled the pistol several times I must say that one of the methods to degas is actually a terrible idea: don't remove the back end, and fire the gun, and catch the striker with a rug. One - the seer will not reset and you can't push the striker back in, without also reaching inside from the bottom and pressing on the rear side of the seer assembly with a hex key or screwdriver, while also pressing the trigger etc. And two - pushing the other two parts (valve bits), which sit in front of the striker, past the seer, might also damage the sealing surface as it grinds past the seer. Only use the screw beneath the loading gate for degassing.

Edit: the barrel is fine, except that the bore is not 100% concentric to the outside, a little bit. This is why it has a flat 90 deg flat crown, which then turns into a 45 deg chamfer further outwards. Original issues turned out to be a scope problem.
 
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JDGriz said:
Having now disassembled and re- assembled the pistol several times I must say that one of the methods to degas is actually a terrible idea: don't remove the back end, and fire the gun, and catch the striker with a rug. One - the seer will not reset and you can't push the striker back in, without also reaching inside from the bottom and pressing on the rear side of the seer assembly with a hex key or screwdriver, while also pressing the trigger etc. And two - pushing the other two parts (valve bits), which sit in front of the striker, past the seer, might also damage the sealing surface as it grinds past the seer. Only use the screw beneath the loading gate for degassing.

As to the the barrel issue - seriously, this is a terrible barrel, at least mine is. I think I'm going to time it so that it shoots upwards and shorten the back end a tiny bit to preserve the clearance to the mag.
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You are suposed to reassemble the back plate, without spring but with the rubber spring guide/bumper. This way nothing shoots out and the gun degasses slowly. This works very well for degassing and is the easiest, lowest risk way to degass.
 
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Sergey1972 said:
You are suposed to reassemble the back plate, without spring but with the rubber spring guide/bumper. This way nothing shoots out and the gun degasses slowly. This works very well for degassing and is the easiest, lowest risk way to degass.
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yeah, this is how kelly showed me how to do it. reassemble the back plate without the bumper and fire it, it won't close the valve and it all drains out.
 
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wimpanzee said:
yeah, this is how kelly showed me how to do it. reassemble the back plate without the bumper and fire it, it won't close the valve and it all drains out.
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The bumper is necessary. It keeps the hammer from hitting the back plate, metal to metal. Lack of spring keeps valve from closing fully.
 
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i had a new issue with my gk1 this weekend. it started hissing, then stopped, then started again...until it was empty. it sounded like a failing oring, and it was!
It was the oring under the brass return housing, oring #26 on the standard parts diagram. Swapped it out with the spare one supplied with the gun, and it seems to be holding air.
Mine is a v1, so i have had it for a little while.
 
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steve-l said:
Like all things, nothing is perfect. Neither is the GK1. It is never-the-less, excellent in so many ways. I am very happy with mine. I must state that first. Many of the reported faults with the gun are not faults and are self induced problems. This occurs because most new owners do not understand exactly how it works. I'll name a few. The broken lever issue while loading, the use of slugs in the magazine and the bent firing valve recoil spring. Most, if not all are user created issues. There are other things that could be better and I suspect with continued popularity, they will surface and be addressed either by the after market or Huben itself.

I have just discovered a design fault with the moderator adaptor. It functions as a shroud clamp and a mount point for a moderator and it is not possible to do that and maintain barrel to moderator bore alignment. This is not possible because all threads require some running clearance to operate. Typically all threads are 75% engagement. The barrel to adaptor and adaptor to moderator are not exceptions. Consequently alignment reference must always be some sort of register. In the case of the adaptor to barrel, it is the perpendicular face of the barrel in the case of the moderator , it is the flat perpendicular face of the adaptor flange that mates with the rear face of the moderator. The problem occurs when tightening the adaptor. It will either tighten against the shroud or the barrel face, but it cannot do both. Default is the shroud, but the shroud is not square to the barrel. In a perfect world, it should be, but in the real world it is not. aggravating this issue further, the flange face of the adaptor should be slightly proud of the shroud, but on my Version 1 and my Version 3, the flange face is slightly recessed from the shroud. So the moderator when tightened clamps against the shroud canting the adaptor, which causes clipping in the moderator unless very excessive bore size is used.
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Wow i had a similar issue and posted about it on FB. I had to remove a little material from my V1’s adapter to get 100% the mod side face to sit below the shroud. Mine was canted with about 50/50 over/under the shroud canting my moderator. Now the mod sits on the shroud completely and no clipping.
 
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JDGriz said:
Having now disassembled and re- assembled the pistol several times I must say that one of the methods to degas is actually a terrible idea: don't remove the back end, and fire the gun, and catch the striker with a rug. One - the seer will not reset and you can't push the striker back in, without also reaching inside from the bottom and pressing on the rear side of the seer assembly with a hex key or screwdriver, while also pressing the trigger etc. And two - pushing the other two parts (valve bits), which sit in front of the striker, past the seer, might also damage the sealing surface as it grinds past the seer. Only use the screw beneath the loading gate for degassing.

Edit: the barrel is fine, except that the bore is not 100% concentric to the outside, a little bit. This is why it has a flat 90 deg flat crown, which then turns into a 45 deg chamfer further outwards. Original issues turned out to be a scope problem.
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I heard that degasing by removing the screw underneath the loading gate was wrong because you may never get a good seal again from that part. I was told to do it by unscrewing the trigger guard method. I dont know what to do.
 
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Kenjeepman said:
Wow i had a similar issue and posted about it on FB. I had to remove a little material from my V1’s adapter to get 100% the mod side face to sit below the shroud. Mine was canted with about 50/50 over/under the shroud canting my moderator. Now the mod sits on the shroud completely and no clipping.
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Could you guys elaborate on the use of slugs in the mag and the bent firing valve? I understand the loading gate
 
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