Any Hatsan Hercules Bully owners out there?

I owne a Bully in 25cal very powerfull and nice gun .

At full power on Hammer Spring it shot the jsb heavys with 328m/s in feet second it was 1076 fps.

So i turn it completly back to 850-910-850 fps in the range from 250 bar to 130 bar.

I have a LW barrel that is very pellet fusi,i think the choke area was to closley so i size the jsb heads to 6,35mm and the skirts to 6,38mm

and have with this the best results.

I have try different pellets with bad results the sized jsb s shooting head on head at 26 meters 

Hope that is helpfull


 
I owne a Bully in 25cal very powerfull and nice gun .

At full power on Hammer Spring it shot the jsb heavys with 328m/s in feet second it was 1076 fps.

So i turn it completly back to 850-910-850 fps in the range from 250 bar to 130 bar.

I have a LW barrel that is very pellet fusi,i think the choke area was to closley so i size the jsb heads to 6,35mm and the skirts to 6,38mm

and have with this the best results.





I have try different pellets with bad results the sized jsb s shooting head on head at 26 meters 



Jorgo, thanks for your input. And I am now curious as to where yo obtained a LW barrel for that Bully?

Hope that is helpfull



 
I have the Bully order in Serbia and the Store give me the option to buy it with the LW Barrel it was 100 euros more expensive than the Bully with Hatsan Barrel.

I am live in Germany here we have a hart limitation with airguns that have more than 7,5 joules (1 joule is roundabout 0,75 fpe) In Serbia there is for Airguns no limitation.

So i can shot it only if i am there but maybe i can give some infos about the rifle if you need.

I have use it this year around 5 weeks and fires 4000 pellets.

But i am not happy with the Barrel the choke on it is to smal.

4 types of pellets working in my rifle

Jsb heavys ,at lowest HS setting 850 fps but i must size them too shot

Jsb king at lowest HS setting 950-1000-920 from 250 bar down to 140bar

H&n Barracuda

Polymags in rang till 40 Meters

I try to order a unchocked polygon barrel for bullets and pellets my lw barrel makes to much work with sizing
 
1536353403_14370376425b92e47b52c563.33129010_20180803_164014.jpg
on the top on right side are the sized pellts hits jsb heavy 6.35 head 6.38 skirt...rightside low jsb 6.34 head 6.38 skirt...its 26 meter and 10 or 12 shots
 
Imold, hopefully you have a store that carries it close by, that way you can bring in something to match up to what you want. Basically, be able to see the color chart.



the employees, unless they are into guns, won’t have a clue as to what “Flat Dark Earth” is. No one in my store did, they just knew I needed to match something.

FDE is not that uncommon of a color around here, a lot of shooters and hunters where I live have weapons in FDE and most hardware stores have gun and ammo sections with rattle cans of paint for camouflaging things. What will be tuff is finding a store that carries the SEM product but then I’ve never looked for SEM so it might be around. 

Thanks.
 
I owne a Bully in 25cal very powerfull and nice gun .

At full power on Hammer Spring it shot the jsb heavys with 328m/s in feet second it was 1076 fps.

So i turn it completly back to 850-910-850 fps in the range from 250 bar to 130 bar.

I have a LW barrel that is very pellet fusi,i think the choke area was to closley so i size the jsb heads to 6,35mm and the skirts to 6,38mm

and have with this the best results.

I have try different pellets with bad results the sized jsb s shooting head on head at 26 meters 

Hope that is helpfull


Thanks for the info.
 
Hatsan did work on it, fixed the rattling noise inside the bottle area, and told me they were able to get repeated groups of less than 1” at 50 yards, using the same 44.75 grain pellets I am using. 

When I tried shooting it the first time upon arrival, it got on paper, but no 1” groups were to be seen. I then realized how my bipod connected to the bottom of the bottle cover(2piece stock) was flexing and causing the scope rail to flex. I decided to just take the stock off and paint it, all the while planning on how I’m going to fix that situation. For sure I’m not using a bipod, but a rest instead, and I’m placing the rest under the main stock just before the bottle cover. Still haven’t got around to testing, as I have company over the house.





Jorge, do you mind sharing how many whole turns counter clockwise it took you on your hammer spring adjustment to drop to those new velocities? Just trying to compare my notes with you.
 
I think the Hatsans come all with different HS settings from the factory

My settings at first chrono shooting was here in meter per second

Jsb 34 grains

250 to 225 bar 310-310-308-309-306

225 to 200 bar 306-305-303-300-301

200 to 170 bar 299-296-294-293-294-290-289

170 to 140 bar 286-285-281-279-277-274-269

140 to 110 bar 267-264-259-256-251-246-242

I remove the stock and adjust it down without counting the turns its actually the last position in that the security srew

can fix the HS srew in my bully

With the 34 grain jsb my string was 850-910-850 from 250 to 150 or 140 bars

It 3 full hatsan mags

In my eyes the bully in smaler calibers like 177/22 or 25 shooting to fast for pellets everyone who buy that

need a unchoked barrel that has an option for bullets

And you are right...the bottlecover is not a good place for a tripod i use a position before the bottle

I have put some very smal plastik peaces between the barrel shroud and the barrel bands becouse its 

a smal place between this conection this is in my eyes an accuracy error place to

I am in oktober in serbia and can you send some pics from what i mean

My english is not the best


 
A big factor in my hatsans are..never lube the pellets or barrel.

After cleaning the barrel with ballistol or simular you have to dry it and remove the oil.

After lubing pellets or the barrel all my hatsans shooting like a shootgun

I cleaned and dryed barrel need 20 shots and then its lubed with lead.

Thats the way working by my at 44 the atp2 and the bully
 
1536505892_14411612915b953824a4cc41.20850160_B84C8EE7-AAAB-4E8D-AD8F-485D9012DCA7.jpeg
Before I took this gun apart for its paint job, I initially shot the gun for around three magazines. Now, remember, this was to test if hatsan truly got under 1” groups out to 50 yards. Well, my pellet trap target was out to 40, and although I was ecstatic that the first shot landed on the cardboard target, I was getting frustrated fiddling with the scope adjustments. When I saw the shot gun groupings starting to bust out along with noticing the flexing of the stock and scope rail, that’s when I said FFF it and painted the stock. 

I threw that target in the trash, didn’t care for it. Then last night I was rounding up the trash for trash day, and really looked at the groupings for the first time. That’s when I noticed a “couple sets” of less than 1” groupings, particularly at the 5:00 area of the target, and just slightly angled left above that group I see another. Maybe this rifle is hopeful, still. As soon as my guests leave the house I’m re testing.

for some reason, every time I’ve sighted in and adjusted turrets, if I aimed for the bulls eye and the shot went to the left and up high, I would turn the windage knob CCW to go right and the elevation turret CW to go down. But with this scope, it is opposite and not following what’s diagramed on the turret. I think that’s part of my frustration, not knowing what the scope is doing once I turn dials. 

Question to you all- do you adjust turrets to where you want the shot that’s on the target to move, or adjust where you want the cross hairs to go? 



I’ve never had problems before with this till now.
 
When looking through the scope I follow point of impact, usually takes a couple shots to zero.

Imold, is this the method where the scope must remain remain perfectly still, with the crosshairs still aiming at your aim point before the shot, then you drag the crosshairs to the impact shot? I’ve never had to resort to this, and I think I’ll try it. 



Every powder burner scope and air rifle scope ive ever had, if the round impacted to the right and high(example), that would mean the adjustment needs to go down and to the left. So left on windage is CW(per the directional arrow on the turret) and down on the elevation turret is CW, as per the directional arrow. That’s the way I’ve always moved the impact on the target over, just basically walking it to the bulls eye. For some reason, movement is opposite on the Bushnell trophy I first had on this gun, then I bought the Monstrum, and same thing. When you turn the windage CW to go left as per the directional arrow on the turret, the vertical line in the scope shifts to the right! 
 
1536606693_11500926005b96c1e5e89d99.18713680_04A9F319-9C19-4AF4-93D9-3F3CCA9B19A3.jpeg
1536606694_1575593675b96c1e64ed0c7.37835519_3D0D79BE-419A-43F5-A618-E5EEFF6EC492.jpeg
Well, finally got decent groups on paper at 40 yards. I’m starting to realize this Bully has a sweet spot at around 3200 to 3000 psi. The problem I’m having is I’m chasing groups. It started with all those scattered ones at 11:00, trying to walk the crosshairs in to the bulls eye. These shots were at a fill of 3600 psi. I walked the shots over to the three shots two inches above the bulls eye, adjusted the dials and finally hammered out the groups at the bull, and noticed at those more consistent groups I was hovering around 3150 psi. Refilled the gun back up to 3600 psi, Then all of a sudden, the group way over at bottom right at 5:00 came about. With my Marauder, a re fill only moves the impact off 3/4” max, and within a couple of shots I’m back on target. If it was a squirrel it would get hit. With this Bully after a fill, I’m not so sure.



This gun gun is high maintenance, I swear. I need to get a regulator for this, but Altaros said the highest they have is set at 190 bar. I don’t think that’s sufficient? 

Meanwhile, this 30 caliber is just hammering my 16 ga pellet trap. I use magnets to attach the targets to the trap, and I’ve already shattered a few of those.