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Anschutz Super Air 2001 repair

Picked up a Anschutz Super Air 2001 from Carel which worked great from about 10 shots but now will not fire when trigger pulled but air is released when cocking. Trying to find someone who will work on this but have had no luck. Pilkguns, Airgunwerks and Motorhead have said no, any help finding someone to take a look at this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Matt


 
You may be on your own for repairs. Numrich at least lists parts for the 2002, not sure about the part commonality. The valve must be stuck open somehow. Getting to the valve assembly might not be as difficult as it seems. I would go on target talk and see if someone there can diagnose the problem and recommend a repair or parts service. It might not be a bad idea to learn how to maintain the gun yourself anyway. Dissapointing I'm sure that it quit on you so soon.
 
Neil Stepp is a very good Anschutz guy. If it is a trigger reset problem, he could certainly help. I am pretty sure the 2001 trigger is the same as a match 22.

The triggers may get gummy, usually some carb cleaner, followed by lighter fluid for a fine lube film is standard maintenance. 

Neil may have valves etc. He was a master parts guy for Anschutz, then I think they consolidated in their own US operation. He was always great for me. 

http://www.iss-internationalshootersservice.com/
 
Does anyone know where to get a valve or get one rebuilt for a Anshutz Superair 2002, Single Stroke Pneumatic Air rifle. Would even look at a clone if it would work. I am running out of options. The air gun has a slight air release when cocking the handle forward and when firing the pelletit noticeably drops. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
 
Most likely it is the firing valve seal.

The seals are available, and not all that difficult to change out. There are tutorials online that will guide you through the process.

If you find it beyond your abilities, there is Pilkington Precision and Elite Shooting Sports that should be able to help you out.

Edited to add

You will most likely have to source the seal from overseas if Elite does not have one in hand. Sorry I forgot to mention that earlier.
 
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Most likely it is the firing valve seal.

The seals are available, and not all that difficult to change out. There are tutorials online that will guide you through the process.

If you find it beyond your abilities, there is Pilkington Precision and Elite Shooting Sports that should be able to help you out.

Edited to add

You will most likely have to source the seal from overseas if Elite does not have one in hand. Sorry I forgot to mention that earlier.
Can you let me know where the tutorials are at. I've tried a number of searches and find nothing. Thank You in advance, Len.........
 
Can you let me know where the tutorials are at. I've tried a number of searches and find nothing. Thank You in advance, Len.........
Unfortunately, with the UK Airgunforum going belly up, I can not find the pictures that I referenced earlier for a tutorial.
The last that I knew, Joe Hein at Elite Shooting Sports had a stash of obsolete Anschutz parts, although I am unsure if he is able or willing to perform a service on one.

I can give you a general idea of what you have to do to get to the valve though.

With the rifle removed from the stock, look directly below the sliding breech block and you will see two allen screws that secure the trigger block to the barrel block.
Those two screws must be removed to access the 4 screws captivated by the trigger block. Those 4 screws are what secures the valve assembly to the pump housing and contain the firing valve.
The firing valve is contained in a silver housing that is visible directly below the breech end of the barrel and is where the nose of the sliding breech block seals when the rifle is in battery. The silver ramped part with the hole in its top is the valve housing.

The tricky part is the partial disassembly of the trigger housing to disconnect the cocking linkage that is tied to the pump arm assembly.
There is a plate on the right side of the trigger assembly secured by two Phillips or cross point screws that must be removed to disconnect the linkage arm. There is a 3 inch long or so tension spring that must be unhooked as well
I suggest taking copious pictures and proceeding carefully with this step. I do not recall any springs or parts flying out unexpectedly, but there are several small fiddly bits that must be in the correct orientation upon re assembly.

Hopefully this is of some help
 
Unfortunately, with the UK Airgunforum going belly up, I can not find the pictures that I referenced earlier for a tutorial.
The last that I knew, Joe Hein at Elite Shooting Sports had a stash of obsolete Anschutz parts, although I am unsure if he is able or willing to perform a service on one.

I can give you a general idea of what you have to do to get to the valve though.

With the rifle removed from the stock, look directly below the sliding breech block and you will see two allen screws that secure the trigger block to the barrel block.
Those two screws must be removed to access the 4 screws captivated by the trigger block. Those 4 screws are what secures the valve assembly to the pump housing and contain the firing valve.
The firing valve is contained in a silver housing that is visible directly below the breech end of the barrel and is where the nose of the sliding breech block seals when the rifle is in battery. The silver ramped part with the hole in its top is the valve housing.

The tricky part is the partial disassembly of the trigger housing to disconnect the cocking linkage that is tied to the pump arm assembly.
There is a plate on the right side of the trigger assembly secured by two Phillips or cross point screws that must be removed to disconnect the linkage arm. There is a 3 inch long or so tension spring that must be unhooked as well
I suggest taking copious pictures and proceeding carefully with this step. I do not recall any springs or parts flying out unexpectedly, but there are several small fiddly bits that must be in the correct orientation upon re assembly.

Hopefully this is of some help
Thank You, sounds like a lot of pics , so we will see. Thanks again. Len........
 
Does anyone know where to get a valve or get one rebuilt for a Anshutz Superair 2002, Single Stroke Pneumatic Air rifle. Would even look at a clone if it would work. I am running out of options. The air gun has a slight air release when cocking the handle forward and when firing the pelletit noticeably drops. Any assistance is greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance
Had the exact same problem with my rifle, also a 2002 super air. Read somewhere that new gaskets for the firing valve wasn't available and that the valve was replaced as a unit.

Having disassembled everything I disassembled the valve and designed new gaskets that I 3D-printed with TPU. I could provide you with the designs if you still need them or even print the gaskets and send them to you.
 
Had the exact same problem with my rifle, also a 2002 super air. Read somewhere that new gaskets for the firing valve wasn't available and that the valve was replaced as a unit.

Having disassembled everything I disassembled the valve and designed new gaskets that I 3D-printed with TPU. I could provide you with the designs if you still need them or even print the gaskets and send them to you.
I have a Super air 2001 with the same problem. I have been searching off and on for a couple of years and have just about given up on finding replacement seals so any help or information you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
 
In this thread

Scroll down to post #8 by WonkyDonky and look at the pics of the firing valve he posted. There are 2 versions, and the later version is used in the 8002 and 9003 rifles.
The early valve is the same as the 2001 super air valve, and the later one is the easier to source version used beyond the 2002 platform.
You may be able to match up part numbers.
 
I have a Super air 2001 with the same problem. I have been searching off and on for a couple of years and have just about given up on finding replacement seals so any help or information you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Since my seal was all but obliterated when I acccessed it inside the rifle I didn't know what the original seal looked like but tried my best to make something from the shapes of the pieces that I had.

I came up with two seperate seals that I 3D-printed using 95A TPU and with these I actually got the rifle working as it did before. Only problem is that in cold weather (around zero degrees C) the TPU gets to stiff and doesn't seal. I have ordered smaller nozzles for my printer and softer TPU. With help from the pictures found at airgunsbbs (Thanks! Chuck in Ohio) I will hopefully be able to make a good duplicate.

The link below takes you to My Drive where you can find the STLs for the two seals I'm currently using. As soon as I can I hopefully design and print a slightly softer one-piece seal.


If you can't print or get someone to print I can do that for you. I would however rather wait till I have better materials and a better design.