Disassembly to the point you have removed the spring and rear piston is in the manual and in various places online.
“Don’t try and pull the piston out”
So I thought Id explain how to remove the compression tube and piston.
Remove the cocking arm and the pellet ramp/guide. That’s quite simple just pins with e clips.
Then you need to unscrew the this guide screw. Part no 3
You could make a tool I used the shafts of 2 small drill bits the fitted perfectly in the holes. Then put a screwdriver between at the base. It did have some locktite on it but wasn’t tight.
once you have removed this screw the compression tube complete with piston will slide out.
You then need to remove part no 6.
This is a retaining ring the clips in place and is what stops the piston coming out.
Anschutz offered an exchange system in the day. You would send off the piston and tube to them and they’d send back a rebuilt one.
To remove the retaining ring you need a sharp pick. Side it in between the tube and the ring. The ring is quite light and delicate so be careful. It comes out quite easily if you carefully slide under it. You don’t want to damage it.
The piston will then slide out of the tube.
At this point take some measurements of the old seal You are probably going to destroy it to take the piston apart
To remove the old seal put the piston in a vice. (In rubber or leather don’t scare the shaft) Heat just behind the head of the piston. The end of the piston that the seal covers is actually a threaded nut.
Use the old seal to protect the metal underneath and use vice grips to grip and unscrew the end of the piston. This is obviously where you’ll wreck your old seal. Be very careful how you adjust your vice grips so you don’t rip through the seal and scare the metal. Don’t attempt to do this without heat.
It doesn’t take much heat but it makes all the difference.
Once you unscrew the end you can see it holds the whole thing together. The “nut” has a rubber bumper in the centre. Under it is probably a screwdriver groove or perhaps a repeat of the 2 holes like part 3.
The rubber bumper was still in good condition so I didn’t want to take it out.
The old seal looks to be a quite ridged plastic so to replace it I copied it in delrin. I know most people aren’t going to have a lathe to do this but it is a very simple part to have someone make up. Take photos and measurements and keep the old seal as intact as possible so your machinist can make you a new one.
Once you have your new seal you can reassembled. You need to get the treads on the piston very clean. You have no way to lever the put tight. If you get the tread so it smoothly threads all the way tight before adding fresh tread lock. Then you know it will easy tread and bottom out. I then just put as much pressure on the nut as you can by hand.
This is my piston reassembled with new seal. The seal shouldn’t extend past the end of the “nut” Remember it has the rubber bumper when it bottoms out in the cylinder and the seal shouldn’t touch.
I did a test fit before I applied the locktite to check the fit was correct.
Leave the piston 24 hours to allow the locktite to cure.
your then ready to put it all back together!
Hope this helps someone out there.
“Don’t try and pull the piston out”
So I thought Id explain how to remove the compression tube and piston.
Remove the cocking arm and the pellet ramp/guide. That’s quite simple just pins with e clips.
Then you need to unscrew the this guide screw. Part no 3
You could make a tool I used the shafts of 2 small drill bits the fitted perfectly in the holes. Then put a screwdriver between at the base. It did have some locktite on it but wasn’t tight.
once you have removed this screw the compression tube complete with piston will slide out.
You then need to remove part no 6.
This is a retaining ring the clips in place and is what stops the piston coming out.
Anschutz offered an exchange system in the day. You would send off the piston and tube to them and they’d send back a rebuilt one.
To remove the retaining ring you need a sharp pick. Side it in between the tube and the ring. The ring is quite light and delicate so be careful. It comes out quite easily if you carefully slide under it. You don’t want to damage it.
The piston will then slide out of the tube.
At this point take some measurements of the old seal You are probably going to destroy it to take the piston apart
To remove the old seal put the piston in a vice. (In rubber or leather don’t scare the shaft) Heat just behind the head of the piston. The end of the piston that the seal covers is actually a threaded nut.
Use the old seal to protect the metal underneath and use vice grips to grip and unscrew the end of the piston. This is obviously where you’ll wreck your old seal. Be very careful how you adjust your vice grips so you don’t rip through the seal and scare the metal. Don’t attempt to do this without heat.
It doesn’t take much heat but it makes all the difference.
Once you unscrew the end you can see it holds the whole thing together. The “nut” has a rubber bumper in the centre. Under it is probably a screwdriver groove or perhaps a repeat of the 2 holes like part 3.
The rubber bumper was still in good condition so I didn’t want to take it out.
The old seal looks to be a quite ridged plastic so to replace it I copied it in delrin. I know most people aren’t going to have a lathe to do this but it is a very simple part to have someone make up. Take photos and measurements and keep the old seal as intact as possible so your machinist can make you a new one.
Once you have your new seal you can reassembled. You need to get the treads on the piston very clean. You have no way to lever the put tight. If you get the tread so it smoothly threads all the way tight before adding fresh tread lock. Then you know it will easy tread and bottom out. I then just put as much pressure on the nut as you can by hand.
This is my piston reassembled with new seal. The seal shouldn’t extend past the end of the “nut” Remember it has the rubber bumper when it bottoms out in the cylinder and the seal shouldn’t touch.
I did a test fit before I applied the locktite to check the fit was correct.
Leave the piston 24 hours to allow the locktite to cure.
your then ready to put it all back together!
Hope this helps someone out there.
