Can anyone tell me how to remove the 1/4 inch round post that fits into one end of the connecting rod?
Another ShoeBox F10 repair question
- Thread starter beercanshot
- Start date
I have never tried removing that piece. You should try contacting Zack at OCO Labs and see if he can get an answer. He is a very congenial guy and will help if he can.
Zack [[email protected]]
Zack Lett
OCO Labs
1708 S. Wolf Rd
Wheeling, IL 60090
mike
Zack [[email protected]]
Zack Lett
OCO Labs
1708 S. Wolf Rd
Wheeling, IL 60090
mike
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Revoman, thanks, Zack was very helpful, he says to remove the block and the dowel pin is pressed out. Im a big fan of the F10, bought it from Joe B. in 2016 and it is wearing out, Ill soon be replacing the pistons and the pin shown in the above photos, I have sufficient O-ring kits. I like the F10 because its American made and I sure wish some one would start building it again.
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Mine had a second stage check o-ring failure the other day which had me tearing into for the first time. Pretty simple process and that got it going again. I had just got it hooked up and filling a tank and when I came back to check on it I noticed the tone change as I was walking to the shop. Surprised to find the crank arm laying on the floor. One of the bushing was wore out so that's probably what caused that. I found it odd that both push on nuts had came off but also felt lucky no more damage was done and that it came off cleanly. So now I check for tightness of the crank arm and that the push on nuts are pushed all the way on. I was wondering if you couldn't put a 1/4x28 thread on those shafts and use a nylon lock nut to secure the crank arm. Seems like I'd have a little more confidence in the crank arm not coming off again. By the way, I got the bushings from McMaster Carr for about 63cents each but the shipping was about $9.
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While mine never threw the arm, I have had the bushings elongate and make quite a racket. As you stated, it's an easy fix with the McMaster-Carr bushings.
The Box that I have has a small bushing looking part with a set screw in it to tighten against the arm shaft closest to the right-side aluminum tower, so I assume that it would not throw the arm off due to that feature. It's the way it came to me brand new. No push-on nut on that end, only on the other end.
I suppose that you could use one of those on each end instead of threading?
Mike
The Box that I have has a small bushing looking part with a set screw in it to tighten against the arm shaft closest to the right-side aluminum tower, so I assume that it would not throw the arm off due to that feature. It's the way it came to me brand new. No push-on nut on that end, only on the other end.
I suppose that you could use one of those on each end instead of threading?
Mike
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Yes, my troubles started when my F10 started making noise also. I didn't stop to troubleshoot until my large piston started wearing badly. Both crank arm bushings were severely worn and that resulted in the noise and also caused my 1/4 inch piston to wear out its bushing where it runs through the support bracket. I had a buddy make a delron bushing for my support bracket and now all seems to be working well. Ive not had push nuts come off yet, but I check them prior to and during each operation. Ive attached a photo of one of my worn out bushings against a new one and another photo of the delron washers my buddy made with his lathe. Also, if you look closely, you can see the damage the worn bushing (the one that was on the support arm did to my 1/4 inch piston. I will most likely be replacing both pistons soon but for the interim, if the unit is still pumping air, Im not going to tear into it. Case in point, when the unit starts making noise, turn it off and check for sloppy movements of the crank arm.
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That's about the same amount of wear my bushing had also. I know now to keep closer tabs on the vulnerable spots. Still seems like a weak link to rely on a 5 cent push nut.
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