FX Another M3 tuning question

I have a question about the tuning of my FX M3 22 caliber 700 mm sniper. I have gone through the tuning that was recommended by quite a few of the forum members and as of this date, I have it set to shoot a 27 grain slug at 1000 ft./s with the regulator set at 129 bar .After shooting today I decided to bump the regulator higher and after reaching 135 bar, I noticed the speed was not increasing. It leveled out at about 1004 to 1007. Am I correct in assuming that this higher reg pressure would be the proper place to leave it considering the hammer at 16 is maxed out and was maxed out at the 129 bar setting. From what I understand this should use less air and give a sharper push to the slug going down range . Am I correct in assuming this please let me know . thanks in advance.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 6gun
I have a question about the tuning of my FX M3 22 caliber 700 mm sniper. I have gone through the tuning that was recommended by quite a few of the forum members and as of this date, I have it set to shoot a 27 grain slug at 1000 ft./s with the regulator set at 129 bar .After shooting today I decided to bump the regulator higher and after reaching 135 bar, I noticed the speed was not increasing. It leveled out at about 1004 to 1007. Am I correct in assuming that this higher reg pressure would be the proper place to leave it considering the hammer at 16 is maxed out and was maxed out at the 129 bar setting. From what I understand this should use less air and give a sharper push to the slug going down range . Am I correct in assuming this please let me know . thanks in advance.
Hammer maxed at 129? Might wanna play with the valve setting or add micro. If you had the hammer set correct at 129 you increasing the reg should've dropped the velocity. Im shooting a 30gr at 980 at 139.

I misread you. Is.your velocity on the first shot staying the same after it sits for a while? Is the spread staying consistent? Is it quieter a bit?

How is it grouping. If your answers are yes yes and yes. The answer is yes. The higher spot is going to have a lower dwell
 
Last edited:
I have a question about the tuning of my FX M3 22 caliber 700 mm sniper. I have gone through the tuning that was recommended by quite a few of the forum members and as of this date, I have it set to shoot a 27 grain slug at 1000 ft./s with the regulator set at 129 bar .After shooting today I decided to bump the regulator higher and after reaching 135 bar, I noticed the speed was not increasing. It leveled out at about 1004 to 1007. Am I correct in assuming that this higher reg pressure would be the proper place to leave it considering the hammer at 16 is maxed out and was maxed out at the 129 bar setting. From what I understand this should use less air and give a sharper push to the slug going down range . Am I correct in assuming this please let me know . thanks in advance.
You're on the right track, I have the exact same gun. I hit a plateau a few bar higher than you but I was chasing a heavier slug with a higher bc (34 grain) so I went with the tungsten hammer and I'm running a bit low on the 2nd reg for that hammer weight at 145 bar. Perhaps the hammer weight washers from the slug power kits of old would help you by adding a little mass and a little spring preload. 150 bar is really where the heavy hammer weight starts to shine as I was told and found out, but I need to have a lighter projectile option down low (23 javelin and by chance mrd work)

If that's the slug you want to stick with, I'm of the opinion that you are at a good speed, because any higher and occasionally they're going to go transonic and increase bc in an incalculable way.... If your experiences are like mine.

I also found the huma style big window pellet probe was good for 7 fps for me and the pin probe was worth 10 and came with its own bad manners but I could adjust seat depth.

Once you go tungsten hammer and heavy liner the gun is pretty much married to barely shooting mrd pellets and all slugs ime.

So my gun is 145 bar, pin probe, tungsten hammer weight, heavy liner and I had to do the "power block" because mine is really early m3 as for power mods. The block seems like a safety fix for chasing power. The gun will run 55-75 fpe and I'm not maxing out the wheel or the micro to get there because it wasn't needed, it needs more plenum pressure to use it all. And my VA is only slightly closed from max travel just to even up the spread.

Just to reiterate, I think I have too much hammer mass for the pressure I'm running but only barely and several hundred yards is doable with your slug choice and speed I think because with 23 I could do 200 and with 30-34 I was hitting a paper plate at 400 yards that I saw up on a hill.

I hope this helps you think thru what you would or wouldn't like to do. I somewhat regret taking the gun this far because it was so good down where yours is at. 135 bar and the pellet liner let me shoot 5 projectiles well on one reg setting and just fiddle with the power wheel. 28 grain slugs being the max before groups fell apart beyond squirrel head shots with the pellet liner.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RoosterCogburn
There’s a few things I forgot to mention when talking about my M3 I did do an internal polishing of the piston, spring hammer, etc. the hammer I replaced with the smaller Huma hammer but left the original springs. The hammer wheel is at 16 and the micro is adjusted as far to five as it will go and still cock. I am able to shoot the 27 greens at 1000 but I normally back it off to shoot them more in the 950 range. As for my extreme spread and deviation, they are quite low in area of five or below, so I believe I’m good there. As for the sound that the Gun is making, I can’t really tell it seems quiet to me. I have not been able to shoot it with the higher rec setting yet. I just adjusted it in my basement on my home range with the chronograph.
 
You can have your power wheel set at 8 and the hammer will have the same tension behind it as 16 if the micro wheel is at 5. That micro wheel is really all that matters.
With your hammer settings where you describe them, adjust the power wheel down and watch your micro tuner. It does not operate independently from the power wheel. I tune with my PW at 8. No particular reason why I chose 8. It doesn’t matter where the PW is set.
Don’t forget to use the valve knob adjuster to really fine tune the gun. Start your tuning with the valve knob at line 4 to 4.5. Once you are within 5-10 fps of your target start closing the valve adjuster knob until you see a slight drop in velocity then fine tune for groups and or SD’s by closing the valve adjuster in 1/8 turn increments or less.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Chasdog
You can have your power wheel set at 8 and the hammer will have the same tension behind it as 16 if the micro wheel is at 5. That micro wheel is really all that matters.
With your hammer settings where you describe them, adjust the power wheel down and watch your micro tuner. It does not operate independently from the power wheel. I tune with my PW at 8. No particular reason why I chose 8. It doesn’t matter where the PW is set.
Don’t forget to use the valve knob adjuster to really fine tune the gun. Start your tuning with the valve knob at line 4 to 4.5. Once you are within 5-10 fps of your target start closing the valve adjuster knob until you see a slight drop in velocity then fine tune for groups and or SD’s by closing the valve adjuster in 1/8 turn increments or less.
at 140 mine doesn't start making a REAL difference with 27grs Until i'm at 2.5 Lines, as 980 at 140 for 26/27gr really isn't even flexing that muscle yet. If your gun can sit, and the first shot is more than a few fps slow, Your valve is running inefficiently for the hammer stroke. Maybe too little, but often too much. Often you can start closing the valve and then see a sharp rise, but with that rise, your spreads may shrink. That's where your valve has begun making a difference (assuming the valve is letting air flow too freely too long). The impact can give you the idea the gun is running great, as when you're firing a shot every few seconds the velocities can remain in the ballpark. It's when the gun has had time to settle, equalize, and then you fire that first shot whether you know you got it right or not. Often your prey will be that first shot. And if you tuned knowing your gun was shooting 1000, but then it sat for a week you very well may miss because the first shot leaves at 955fps. If when you start shooting over the chronograph, your velocities start low and climb, then stabilize, Valve adustment or hammer adjustment necessary. (also make sure you're not creeping). Also If you pull the trigger before the plenum and reg recharge fully, Velocities will be wonky and all over too. I take 15secs minimum between shots when tuning, the job isn't done until the gun has sat, fired the same or within 5fps of last shot. Then refill to 250, Repeat. if you're staying in that neighborhood, You've done this correct.