Another FX Wildcat Trigger Issue

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nvelkhunter

Member
Aug 13, 2015
160
5
Nevada, United States
Good: Gun is supper accurate, sub 3/4" 5 shot groups at 57 yards.
Not So Good: Trigger issues, two so far.

First trigger issue is a flimsy clevis, it's been more than three weeks without resolution form retailer. Currently only limping along with temporarily fix. Pliers were used to squeeze back together. Will likely switch over to remote control car/airplane higher quality clevis, but waiting to hear back from retailer.

Second trigger issue, new, first stage pull resistance inconsistency. Sequence; freshly cock gun, pull trigger through first stage without firing gun, release trigger, pull trigger through first stage a second time without firing gun. Second pull resistance is lighter than first pull. Turns out firing lever gets stuck in an intermediate position after first pull. Gun still functions but can't believe trigger is acting correctly. Anyone else experience this? Is this "normal?"

Check out video:

 
The" intermediate position" is normal when trigger is set on the lighter side unless you install a stronger return spring but that will make the pull harder on the 2nd stage. that plate you are pushing on is holding the main sear that is holding the hammer and the pressure of the main spring when cock so its not going to reset freely. the way I see it on your video --- it need trigger adjustment----I seen a lot like that and fix it.

in this video I made some trigger linkage to remove some of the slack and easy removal. 

 
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Made adjustments to the three trigger screws as Ernest shows in his video with some decent success. The screw adjustments interacting, so if you're going to attempt to improve the trigger function, keep adjustments to 1/4 turn at a time and test after each. My trigger now performs as it did originally, first stage springs back after trigger pull that stops short of firing gun and firing lever no longer sticks in intermediate position. Why did it change, don't know. Just noticed it one day, have shot about 1500 rounds, maybe its breaking in. Hope it lasts and doesn't need to be adjusted often.

For clevis separation; I removed clevis, careful to keep locking nut in factory position, slide a short piece of drip line tubing over base of clevis, threaded clevis back onto rod tight against nut, inserted clevis pin into trigger arm hole and then slipped drip line over fingers of clevis. Seams to do the trick but still considering replacing both ends with higher quality clevises. If someone knows the size and thread count on connecting rod please let me/us know. 
 
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Just thought I'd add to this, as my "less than 100 shot" Wildcat has developed the faulty trigger link issue.
I got 2 shots with a "click", then no trigger.
Quick strip down revealed the rear clevis had fallen apart - So, now I've joined the "Club"!
I called my dealer (Blackpool Air Rifles) where I bought the gun in December and the chap I spoke to seemed unaware of the problem and suggested I bring the gun in for return to the UK importer A.S.I. He then suggested I might call them directly - so I did!
A.S.I. couldn't have been more helpful! I was put straight through to a gunsmith who understood the problem and mentioned it as a known weakness.
He then offered to send me a couple of replacement clevis pins, rather than go through the sending away performance.
Great! They arrived next day and after fitting them I've learned a couple of things.
They are total rubbish really and sell for about 50p on the net - so we're not talking quality in any way.
They fit by squeezing together until the link bar goes though the unwelded side.
Once fitted, they are only weak if the sides move apart, leaving just the spot welded end doing the work.
When used on RC models, they usually have a small tight rubber ring slipper over them, to keep them from spreading apart.
I used heat shrink tube on mine after fitting, making sure they were tight with long nose pliers.
So far, so good, but it's now on my list of "mods to do when there's time" to swap them for something better!
 
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another satisfied customer with the trigger tune, both spring has been replace results 1st stage 2.5 OZ 2nd stage 5.5 OZ clean 2nd break and the blade resets when cock with the same OZ when uncock----and the clevis has been replace with delrine, it's like a nylock nut when rod is fully threaded in the delrine---no flop/play, also the screws are tightly threaded no way it will back out but can always be removed. 

 
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Nice Mod - You say you replaced both springs. I know the one were the trigger is adjusted - where is the other.

I have been attempting to adjust my trigger down to a light 2nd stage - but either I get about a 1 lb 2nd stage or I get a really light 1 stage only and it changes from shot to shot. Were you able to keep the light 2nd stage because of the upgraded linkage allowed you finer adjustment?

Did you find it necessary to open the holes in the trigger levers to accept the screws or perhaps you turned the fasteners down a the ends into pins?

KZ
 
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