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American Air Arms Evol leak

Other then bench shooting to zero my Evol it hasn’t seen or cycled many pellets. I took it out last night to deal with a coyote and discovered it had lost all its air - I keep it charged to 2300 psi to be ready for predators. The leak is near the fill port but seems to be coming from the manometer at the air tube. How do I proceed to repair? Obviously it’s degassed - the picture shows where the leak is coming from:
D38818EE-8852-4C01-A59D-EEDBA391BE49.jpeg
 
Other then bench shooting to zero my Evol it hasn’t seen or cycled many pellets. I took it out last night to deal with a coyote and discovered it had lost all its air - I keep it charged to 2300 psi to be ready for predators. The leak is near the fill port but seems to be coming from the manometer at the air tube. How do I proceed to repair? Obviously it’s degassed - the picture shows where the leak is coming from:
View attachment 309010
Ideally - there would be a maintenance video somewhere on YouTube but no such luck. Probably need one or two Orings but I gotta know specifics.
 
I’m considering buying one of those. Wonder how you like yours. Is it worth the money?
Worth the money...hard to say. I have an EVOL, Mini, in .22 cal .

1 - On one hand, it shoots pellets (and probably slugs)...so there's that !
2 - Do some leak, as above, yes, there's been a few here (use the search !). Luckily, so far, mine has not, still tight.
3 - The trigger's nice, but I have better. You have to remove the trigger box from the gun to adjust ! You have to put it back together to test, then... Hmm !
4 - The regulator presure is set pretty high, and with no way of an easy adjustment. Even when you CAN...adjust the regulator, you have NO CLUE where you are, pressure wise.
5 - The hammer spring is adjustable, but a bit awkwardly, and takes a LOT of turns to effect a change .
6 - The OEM suppressor isn't really backyard friendly. I added a two section Huma M40, to my Mini, isn't too bad now.
7 - For a spring loaded magazine, overall, it's ok. Very well built, all aluminum. BUT, the first pellet MUST go in backward !!! Come-on, this is the 21st Century !
8 - Loading the magazine into the gun...well done. Simple, straight forward, solid.
9 - The plastic butt stock... Really, again, a sloppy, noisy thing with this price tag ! I replaced mine right away.
10 - Not a fan of the grip...but that's JUST me. Has been changed.

All that said... MOST machinery, this includes most current air guns, use a class 1 , MAYBE...a class 2 thread in some areas. This is one thing about the American Air Arms guns, they seem proud of their work. By that I mean that the part fitup, and class of threads used is maybe a class 2 and many areas, a class three (VERY GOOD, best that you can get).
A VERY easy test. Grab ANY brand of muffler (LDC, moderator, silencer, suppressor, whatever you call yours), and ANY other rifle. Now thread that muffler onto the barrel or adapter. Pay attention to the thread fit (losness while installing).
Now, take that same muffler, and thread it onto the EVOL's barrel . Notice the thread fit..! A major difference.
The cocking action is very nicely done. Solid, smooth, even if a little hard at the end of the movement. The Titanium air cylinder helps keep the weight down, while adding a bit of strength to the cylinder.
I ran a cleaning patch through the barrel. The pulling of the patch was smooth and effortless, indication (to me anyway) that the barrel manufacturer was done very well. Only a small amount of garbage on the patch.

I shoot freehand, so I can't say anything about the exact accuracy, except, that in my freehand shooting, yeah, I can come pretty / very close to the center of the dot (paper shooter here) .

So yeah, the "basic" design, engineering, machining, assembly, are first class, hard to beat. I've got more than my fair share of PCP guns. I only know of a couple (my guns) that can match the design (care in fit-up and overall design) of the American Air Arms gun (again, my Mini anyway) .

So... Was that big bill worth it to me..? The jury's still out. IF...it continues to hold air, and doesn't need any rework...for a while, yeah, it's a close call (minus the adjustability !). But if I end up with the same leak that many have...Mmm, maybe not so much. Hell, I've got an inexpensive, Walther Reign, that's held it's pressure for a couple of years now..! The pressure up, down, shooting, sitting...all good.
Am I unhappy with my purchase, no...not...really, so far, except maybe for the unadjustability and the cheap butt stock on an expensive gun.

Oh yeah, the disassembly / assembly tools..are as expensive as the gun..!

NOTE - This is just one person's experience, and the report of !

1669597995012.jpeg


Mike
 
Absolutely worth every penny - don’t let my oring issue deter you - hammer of a gun!!! And accuracy is excellent.
my problem is; you never really know how you will like a gun if you only get to see it in pictures and reviews. I wish I knew someone within driving distance for me that I could actually see and shoot one. (southern KY)
 
@cavedweller

The reason I asked if you have the barrel removal tool is because it just makes it easier to remove the air cylinder or gauge block where your leak is coming from. Just by looking at your pic, I can tell that the o-ring is extruded and it looks like it's coming out of the seam.

First off, degass the air cylinder by loosening the burst disk on the receiver first just to make sure.

To remove the gauge block, you need to unscrew the lower picatinny rail first. You could also just remove the lower receiver with the picatinny rail attached.

You then need to unscrew the male foster with an allen hex key and possibly remove the gauge/manometer at the front of the air cylinder. The reason is because when you twist off the front gauge block, the barrel will get in the way.

To remove the pressure gauge, you can purchase the Gauge Removal Tool at AoA. If you don't want to go that route, use an adjustable crescent wrench or box wrench that fits to remove the gauge. Just be aware that you risk marring the finish around it.

Then twist off the gauge block assembly and replace the o-ring. The size is -122 Viton, 90 durometer. I would also replace the o-ring on the regulator. It's the same size and material.
 
Daystate rifles are really well made.

Airgun Technology are really well made. Solid as a tank.

Both are as accurate at it can be.

Airgun Technology rifles shoot pellets and slugs equally good.

Airgun Technology Rifles cost 2/3 of an American Air Arms. Must expensive Daystate (electronic) equals an American Air Arms.

Daystate are made in England.

Both, Daystate and American Air Arms come with one magazine, Airgun technology rifle come with two magazines.

Airgun Technology rifles are made in Czech Republic.

American Air Arms are made in the USA (proudly for must of the people on the forum).

Is not correct to say that the performance of the American Air Arms will be better than the one of a Daystate or of the Airgun Technology one.

Along my life I bought 4 Freelanders from Land Rover (big mistake looking backwards). No Land Rover may compete with Toyota in control quality, reliability and long lasting.

Land Rover are proud of English people.

I won't buy an American Air Arms. Already decided!
 
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