Am I the only one?

esaz-41

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Apr 12, 2017
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Arizona
I have had two scopes recently that I couldn't zero at ten yards because I ran out of elevation. One was 6 inches low. Before everyone starts to tell me about barrel droop the scopes were mounted on a PCP and a multi pump Crosman 362 with a steel breech.

I center the reticle on scopes before I mount them -- saves a lot of adjusting. In most cases the amount of adjustment is minimal.

I returned one and was told it was in spec -- I don't think so. The only way I could zero it was to use a compensation mount. Even then mounted with the reticle centered it took a lot of elevation to zero.

I've mounted a lot of scopes and these two scopes were the only ones that I consider to be defective.
 
I dont know anyone who zeroes their scope at 10 yards. Typical zero for airguns is around 20-30yd. For closer distances you should be using holdover with your reticle. I use a fixed scope zero distance and then use hold over or hold under on the reticle.
Maybe you're dialing your turrets to zero for each target distance. The higher your scope is mounted above your bore axis, the more extreme elevation you will need for this close shots in the 5-10yd range. It may be impractical for most scopes to dial the turrets to zero so close.

Feinwerk
 
I returned one and was told it was in spec -- I don't think so
How do you know its not in spec? Whats the scope brand? Different scopes have different amounts of available adjustment based on the design of the internals and tube size. Allot of the cheaper scopes people try to use have very small amounts of available adjustment. Some mid ranged scopes have minimal available adjustment as well. Like I said it depends on design and tube size. 10 yards is pretty close and depending on how high you are mounting the scope and if there is moa built into the base its being mounted on will cause this type of issue as well.
Before everyone starts to tell me about barrel droop the scopes were mounted on a PCP and a multi pump Crosman 362 with a steel breech.
Being mounted on a pcp doesnt mean anything for barrel droop. Whats the brand of pcp? Many pcp rifles have barrels that are not perfect in fact I would say most are not perfect. The barrel can have a slight bend in it or the bore could be off center. Take the barrel off and roll it or mount it up in a lathe and I guarantee its not perfect.
 
I zero my scopes at 12 yards mostly and that is where majority of my indoor shooting is. With pellets it almost always lines up within a few clicks of the 50 yard zero. Slugs tend to hit about an inch or so higher at 50 yards.
Someone who understands trajectory, Thanks Most of my shooting is outdoors. I zero inside at my ten yard indoor range. A ten yard zero will drop back down to about zero at about forty yards depending on all the variables.
 
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Someone who understands trajectory, Thanks Most of my shooting is outdoors. I zero inside at my ten yard indoor range. A ten yard zero will drop back down to about zero at about forty yards depending on all the variables.
I also run into this problem with airgun s and airbows...I have the Eagle vision 108 Moa adjustable base. It has 108 moa up down and has right to left adjustment also...I know its aggregating...

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I dont know anyone who zeroes their scope at 10 yards.
Feinwerk
I do, and it’s for a good reason

As the pellet exits the barrel it travels up to meet the the cross hairs, it continues to climb, then plateau’s finally dropping down to pass back through the cross hair, depending on velocity and scope height, this second zero is somewhere between 30-50 yards.

I then fine tune my second zero, it saves time and ensures my poi start somewhere very close to zero.

Bb
 
I do, and it’s for a good reason

As the pellet exits the barrel it travels up to meet the the cross hairs, it continues to climb, then plateau’s finally dropping down to pass back through the cross hair, depending on velocity and scope height, this second zero is somewhere between 30-50 yards.

I then fine tune my second zero, it saves time and ensures my poi start somewhere very close to zero.

Bb
Excellent advice
 
I have had two scopes recently that I couldn't zero at ten yards because I ran out of elevation. One was 6 inches low. Before everyone starts to tell me about barrel droop the scopes were mounted on a PCP and a multi pump Crosman 362 with a steel breech.

I center the reticle on scopes before I mount them -- saves a lot of adjusting. In most cases the amount of adjustment is minimal.

I returned one and was told it was in spec -- I don't think so. The only way I could zero it was to use a compensation mount. Even then mounted with the reticle centered it took a lot of elevation to zero.

I've mounted a lot of scopes and these two scopes were the only ones that I consider to be defective.

You probably have a picatinny rail that has some angle/elevation built into it. If you can take your pic rail off and reverse it, that would likely help to zero at extremely close distances.

As others mention, in most cases it makes more sense to hold over at extremely short ranges, but if you really want to do it, I'd start by either getting a scope that has extreme range adjustment or change your pic rail, if possible.
 
You probably have a picatinny rail that has some angle/elevation built into it. If you can take your pic rail off and reverse it, that would likely help to zero at extremely close distances.

As others mention, in most cases it makes more sense to hold over at extremely short ranges, but if you really want to do it, I'd start by either getting a scope that has extreme range adjustment or change your pic rail, if possible.
I had mounted a scope on this rifle previously and zeroed at ten yards without any difficulty. The scope is the problem, not the mounting hardware. This scope was supposed to be an upgrade. It was only useable with a compensation mount and even then limited by the lack of elevation range.