Alumahyde just peeled off can anyone help?

[Raden1943]

I have two old crosman guns that had some kind of powder coat or really strong paint. They were massively pitted and I took hours and hours sanding and polishing them down to the metal. I then roughed up the surfaces with 600 grit sand paper and thoroughly degreased all parts. I then painted them with alamahyde black. It looked great but after waiting 2 weeks for it to set it started flaking off just from handling it. I'm not sure if I needed to rough it up with a coarser sand paper or if the 3 coats I gave it was too much or if the type of metal was just not having it but I really want to get these guns looking new again. I'm willing to do just about anything. If you know a better paint that's fine. If you think I need to get a sand blaster I'll do that. I just don't want to pay to have someone else do it if I can help it. Thanks guys I almost always figure out how to get projects done after getting advice here. - Raden

 

[iAMzehTOASTY1]

I have two old crosman guns that had some kind of powder coat or really strong paint. They were massively pitted and I took hours and hours sanding and polishing them down to the metal. I then roughed up the surfaces with 600 grit sand paper and thoroughly degreased all parts. I then painted them with alamahyde black. It looked great but after waiting 2 weeks for it to set it started flaking off just from handling it. I'm not sure if I needed to rough it up with a coarser sand paper or if the 3 coats I gave it was too much or if the type of metal was just not having it but I really want to get these guns looking new again. I'm willing to do just about anything. If you know a better paint that's fine. If you think I need to get a sand blaster I'll do that. I just don't want to pay to have someone else do it if I can help it. Thanks guys I almost always figure out how to get projects done after getting advice here. - Raden

They have some paint that is labeled DTM: direct to metal. It's for like playground equipment, tractors ,etc . I sanded down my truck clear down to bare metal *old 92 ranger*and put it on it. Think it took about 8 cans. 5 years later and it's looking better than my paint on my car

 

[phillip]

Without trying to be snarky, I have to wonder if you followed the application Instructions. I think one area where people sometimes make mistakes is to apply too many coats too soon. That would be my guess.

I have used Norrell’s moly resin in the past and it works remarkably well. It requires that the surfaces be sandblasted with aluminum oxide grit and then after application the parts are baked (200 degrees?… sorry, but it’s been a while and I’ve since forgotten) for about an hour. It is tough stuff; I used it on several AK47 rifles I worked on and I’ve yet to see a scratch - even under the safety selector!

 

[Doc C.]

I have to echo Phillip's post. With metal it is 90% preparation, 5% application and 5% dedication.
I have used Brownell gun cote with great results. Again, it is a baked-on finish. I have been using all different colors on
AR platforms for years. I spent the last 10 years building custom AR's and have never had a problem or unhappy customer.
Best of luck with your project. Sounds like fun.
Doc

 

[Privateer]

600 grit is way to fine for a coating of any kind on bare metal.
I'd not go higher then 350 or 400 grit.
600 grit is lower level for sanding before buffing the actual paint.
A quick sand with 600 for bad orange peel or runs then working up to 1200 grit before buffing.

 

[KWK]

Yeah, 600 grit won't provide any tooth.
IDK, maybe the issue is they aren't aluminum.

 

[Phraint]

I have always had good luck with Brownells Aluma-hyde. I find it to be too thick for many applications. If you are sure about your application, and have warmed it to the correct temperature, it will be quick and easy to apply. There is a 2 week cure time, from my experience. I wonder if there is something else in the equation? Maybe an unknown solvent on the metal?

 

[Raden1943]

So no unknown solvent I used pure acetone and have had success before with rattle cans. I am not an experienced painter but have spray painted a couple things that turned out great. Already from you guys I've realized that #1 I probably put too many coats on. And #2 probably should have roughed up the metal with 350 grit. I actually used 150,350 and 400 to remove the insane pitting on the guns but eventually went up to 1200 smoothing everything out before going back to 600 to scratch it up a bit and give the paint a surface to cling to. I obviously should have used 350. Thanks guys I'm going to go back and try again using the 350 and try to do a single coat or two if needed. I don't have an oven I'm willing to use on them but if you think it would help I might go find a toaster oven at goodwill. The instructions said it would reduce cure time if I baked it afterwards but I didn't do that. I did wait the two weeks. Before I painted it I left it in the sun and got the metal to about 110 degrees. I might actually get that a bit higher by using the toaster oven before I start spraying. So that's my plan if there is anything else I can do to ensure a better result please let me know but I feel more confident after hearing from you guys. Thanks alot.

 

[KWK]

Preheat might be your problem. Might be causing what we call a dry coat. A dry coat won’t adhere.

 

[Privateer]

I wait until SWMBO goes to work or on an Eagle Photo shoot trip. Then bake finishes in the Toaster oven if small enough.
If She smells something when she comes home? I tell her I was using a torch in the basement.

 

[Dr. Kralenstein]

I've personally used 3 different colors of alumahyde II, and had zero issues and I'm an impatient painter who never listens to flash/respray times.

I painted My AR rifles with ODG or FDE, even the plastic Pmags and never had it just flake off. The aluminum receivers are strong enough to not chip or cracks from 1000s of rounds smacking the shell deflector. None of the hoppes I drench them in has messed with it either.

I think you might have an actual product issue vs application issue. I just scuffed my stuff down and went to spraying.

Edit: I went and reread your process and yes if it's too fine of a surface(1200 is into polishing phase) it won't etch into the metal properly. Also, I let mine stand for a week and then baked it with a couple space heaters so they'd get hot/cool/hot/etc for about a week. Been rock hard since.

 

[The_Dude_Abides]

Using a lower grit sand paper should help, 280 to 320, alumahyde is to thick for 600 grit.