Almost a year of using Kalibrgun Capybara

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Arash

Arash

Member
Apr 25, 2017
175
6
31
Hammedan, Iran
Hi I'm Arash.

About a year ago I bought a Kalibrgun Capybara and this is my thought after using and tuning this air rifle.

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At first I get into trouble with it. It had lots of problems like bolt jammed ,magazine didn't cycled and...

So I picked my tools and disassembled it like a thousand times. I didn't surprise when I saw this gun ended up like hummingbird. Some problem is due to design and others due to QC in the factory. Also tuning and servicing this gun is so hard that changing barrel O-rings need two days, FX impact like noting compare to Capybara. I spend 3 days to adjust trigger only.

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Also I've had added a WIKA manometer to check the plenum pressure. At first the tolerance was 15 bar, now it is 3 bar from 125 to 260 bar. Also best reg pressure is 123 bar but with 150 bar I could achieve 55 joules with 21gr pellet.

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I used stronger but shorter hammer spring to eliminate bouncing and I achieved 120 shoots per fill but accuracy wasn't that good so I changed it to factory setting. But increased valve spring tension. Also extended the silencer length and performance by removing one plastic part.

Now it's extremely accurate, better than every air rifle I've ever shoot with, and it is quieter now. For each 50 bar I can shoot one 18 pellets mag. Also all parts work smoothly. Trigger is lighter than impact but I don't know the exact pull weight.

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This is my collection now. I had Hawke range finder but it was slow so changed it to Konus which is tiny and fast. I have FX chronograph but it is some time give me wrong number and it say I have to adjust it but how I know that I'm right? So I keep my chrony too

And that 4 optics...

I bought MTC viper pro but I couldn't zero it after 75 yards (up to 13MOA) so why they put a ring that says 30 MOA adjustment? 

Then I bought discovery hd 10X44 and I can zero it even at 120 yards (up to 9 MRAD) which was perfect but not good for bench rest.

And after that I Bought a T-eagle 6-24X50 to get rid of that two scope but I didn't like this one.

So I bought discovery hd34 3-18X50 which is fantastic. Now I want to keep one and sell others but I'm not sure keep MTC or discovery hd34? any advice?

But if I had that opportunity to go back and decide to buy this gun or something else I defiantly choose this gun again. I love to shoot this gun.
 
That's not saying very much about the trigger improvement if it's only better than an Impact. That Discovery HD is a much better scope than that MTC as you already know just by looking through them. You need adjustable mounts if you want to just suffer with that MTC that only has 42moa maximum adjustment which is terrible considering it has a 30mm tube which should be at least double that if it were design engineered properly and if it had much better glass at least like the Discovery has.
 
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That's not saying very much about the trigger improvement if it's only better than an Impact. That Discovery HD is a much better scope than that MTC as you already know just by looking through them. You need adjustable mounts if you want to just suffer with that MTC that only has 42moa maximum adjustment which is terrible considering it has a 30mm tube which should be at least double that if it were design engineered properly and if it had much better glass at least like the Discovery has.
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My bad

This is the trigger and that steal part is first linkage part

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Then there is a spring for first stage pull weight and this spring hold by a loose screw. It will turn by hand easily so Loctite should be used and that made a big problem.

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Then second link part start like a cricket

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This part goes down and connect to third part which change the direction from pushing to pulling the last part

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And last part start which is loose again and when pull the trigger it will turn. there is a part that I can change the first stage travel by it also turning it can help reducing the movement of last linkage part. Also first stage can be change like cricket but that screw is hard to achieve.

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And there is another loose screw that hold a spring to adjust second stage pull weight also loosing it could cause the gun to no cook but two other screws should be loose to let this gun cook. At first this two screws were tight and because of that second stage had high pull weight.

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So I used Loctite to hold this screws, but because they were too loose Loctite went down and glued other part so that was the problem. I remove it by acetone and adhesive cleaner then used Loxeal which had more viscosity but again this loose screws had a large gap so one day needed to get tight.

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I didn't say it's better than impact, I say it's lighter. Now it set at 410 grams two stage trigger and I can reduce it but let's leave it as it is.

I had adjustable mount but I like low mounts to put my cheek bone on cheek piece, after zeroing the gun 13MOA left. I think I keep discovery.
 
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Hello Arash, could you please tell me how you fix the jammed bolt?
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Hi. the barrel and the bolt are the problem. barrel is not polished out and the bolt it self too. in previous post i explained that i used 220 to 5k sandpaper in order to polish the barrel. then I used same method to polish the bolt too (by bolt i mean the part that contact to the barrel)

It's been two years now and i have no problem any more.

One of the best improvement i made on the capybara was making a titanium valve pin, ES was tighter gained 15fps and no leak issue. Was 1/2 the weight of OEM. 



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Nice idea I will try it soon. could you tell me the specification of that valve pin? tnx

@Sniperlab, what kind of power level would you consider reasonably achievable out of Capybara and would you sell your tuning stuff?

I am seriously thinking of buying one to shoot lighter slugs. Pest controlling up to 100yards.
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with 160 bar of reg pressure i could shoot jsb slug up to 260m/s but the accuracy wasn't that good so i put the away.

I would say in windy day you could count on 40 to 60 meters and for a calm day 100 is a reasonable long distance to shoot.


 
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HI GUYS, HOW DO I PUT THE MANOMETER TO CHECK THE REGULATOR PRESSURE ON CAPIVARA AND HAS ANYONE EVER TRIED TO INCREASE THE GAS CYLINDER?
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You can check reg pressure by 1/8 manometer. only unscrew the bolt below and put manometer instead.

But adding plenum is not that easy, as you already guess there is one place that you can add manometer but you can't use it for plenum.

In order to add plenum you need to put it after the hose, hose inside diameter is 2mm, using plenum before the hose would make no differences.

Beside all of that I used JSB slug and not a good result even up to 260m/s. I recommend before adding plenum set reg pressure at high pressure (150 to 160) and if you get any good result with a slug then think about adding plenum.

it's like cricket if you wana add extra cylinder but you cant add to the moderator because of its design.

You ask it on both topic ;) I think this topic is the last one
 
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Got a little problem with the trigger.

When pulled , it does not goes enough forward so I can't push the safety.

When I push the triggerblade a little forward, the safety switch will work fine.

Is there also a spring for letting return the triggerblade after firing?
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Behind trigger, above the trigger link is a screw. Screw it in half a turn till safety work again. turn it too much will make first stage harder(or stiffer).
 
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