American Air Arms All Things EVOL

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orangeokie said:
I buy my JTS pellets from Hajimoto

hajimotoproductions.com

JTS Dead Center Pellets - Hajimoto Productions LLC

JTS Dead Center Pellets are the result of 2 years of development resulting in a premium airgun pellet line that utilizes the latest manufacturing equipment and processes to ensure quality and consistency. JTS engineers used aerodynamic principles when designing these pellets to ensure that every...
hajimotoproductions.com hajimotoproductions.com
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Phil,

Just checked Haji’s site. He must be out of the .22 cal 25.39 as I could not find them.
 
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Well I found an issue with mine. I was removing everything to do a reseal. I was removing the front cap where the pressure gauge and foster is located. Was able to unscrew appx half of the threaded portion, and then things seazed up on me. Very little movement but locks up.

I have an email to Tom to see if he has any ideas to get the cap unstuck. Don't want to damage anything of course but also want to get the gun shooting.

Being as the air cylinder is titanium and I am unsure of the cap material. Would think it would be other than titanium to avoid galling, but I'm not sure.
 
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woogie_man said:
Well I found an issue with mine. I was removing everything to do a reseal. I was removing the front cap where the pressure gauge and foster is located. Was able to unscrew appx half of the threaded portion, and then things seazed up on me. Very little movement but locks up.

I have an email to Tom to see if he has any ideas to get the cap unstuck. Don't want to damage anything of course but also want to get the gun shooting.

Being as the air cylinder is titanium and I am unsure of the cap material. Would think it would be other than titanium to avoid galling, but I'm not sure.
Click to expand...
That's very odd. I've had mine apart a few times and never an issue. Can't even think what it could be. Hope you get it figured out soon!
 
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tommyb said:
Tim - This made my day. My RAW HM1000x .22 HP only shoots the MRDs. Speaking to Martin recently, and he understood and communicated to me, that JSB was making the ‘shallow cavity’ MRDs again. He also said that there is a large inventory still out there of the ‘deep cavity’ pellets and it may take a while before we see them from JSB.

Re. JTS- You’re talking about the JTS Dead Center Take Down Domed 25.39 .22 cal pellets, right?
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Yes sir Tom.
 
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woogie_man said:
Well I found an issue with mine. I was removing everything to do a reseal. I was removing the front cap where the pressure gauge and foster is located. Was able to unscrew appx half of the threaded portion, and then things seazed up on me. Very little movement but locks up.

I have an email to Tom to see if he has any ideas to get the cap unstuck. Don't want to damage anything of course but also want to get the gun shooting.

Being as the air cylinder is titanium and I am unsure of the cap material. Would think it would be other than titanium to avoid galling, but I'm not sure.
Click to expand...
I just had this issue on my 15" after retuning it. I had the front o-ring give way on me and start leaking. I was able to start unscrewing the front but only about 1/2 a turn. Wrapped the fill/gauge with a couple wraps of leather and then used a vice grip tightened very lightly, just enough to catch on the dip. Unscrewed easily the rest of the way, no harm done. I'm now waiting for some V90 #122 o-rings.

I think the o-ring went after a bunch of emptying and refilling the air tube. I'm speculating it was the heat/cool cycles from the empty fills - the titanium air tube can get pretty hot even with a slow fill.

------------------

On a completely separate note I had another weird issue as I was retuning the 15" for 18gr pellets I noticed I was getting a wide ranging fps spread of like 75 fps no matter what I did. As I was trying to figure it out I pulled the hammer spring out and noticed blue flakes of paint all over the inside of the tube holding the hammer and spring. I pulled out the hammer and the rear guide path was all gunked up with blue paint flakes and some residual lube. Cleaned it up and looking to try it again once I get the o-rings in.

Where did the paint come from? The spring. The spring is painted with a blue paint and I guess over a few thousand shots it started flaking a bit. Not sure if anyone else has seen this before, but I haven't read anything.
 
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ctshooter said:
I just had this issue on my 15" after retuning it. I had the front o-ring give way on me and start leaking. I was able to start unscrewing the front but only about 1/2 a turn. Wrapped the fill/gauge with a couple wraps of leather and then used a vice grip tightened very lightly, just enough to catch on the dip. Unscrewed easily the rest of the way, no harm done. I'm now waiting for some V90 #122 o-rings.

I think the o-ring went after a bunch of emptying and refilling the air tube. I'm speculating it was the heat/cool cycles from the empty fills - the titanium air tube can get pretty hot even with a slow fill.

------------------

On a completely separate note I had another weird issue as I was retuning the 15" for 18gr pellets I noticed I was getting a wide ranging fps spread of like 75 fps no matter what I did. As I was trying to figure it out I pulled the hammer spring out and noticed blue flakes of paint all over the inside of the tube holding the hammer and spring. I pulled out the hammer and the rear guide path was all gunked up with blue paint flakes and some residual lube. Cleaned it up and looking to try it again once I get the o-rings in.

Where did the paint come from? The spring. The spring is painted with a blue paint and I guess over a few thousand shots it started flaking a bit. Not sure if anyone else has seen this before, but I haven't read anything.
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I bought a bag of 50 or 100 feom McMaster for around $5
 
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Happened to me as well when filling to 4000 psi. O-rings are extruded and expanded into the threads. Give a little more oomph and unscrew it. Just make sure you have the updated 90 durometer, Viton o-rings, size -122 and order a bunch of them. The o-ring specs are from Tom but it's always good to check with him in case things have changed.
 
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ctshooter said:
I just had this issue on my 15" after retuning it. I had the front o-ring give way on me and start leaking. I was able to start unscrewing the front but only about 1/2 a turn. Wrapped the fill/gauge with a couple wraps of leather and then used a vice grip tightened very lightly, just enough to catch on the dip. Unscrewed easily the rest of the way, no harm done. I'm now waiting for some V90 #122 o-rings.

I think the o-ring went after a bunch of emptying and refilling the air tube. I'm speculating it was the heat/cool cycles from the empty fills - the titanium air tube can get pretty hot even with a slow fill.

------------------

On a completely separate note I had another weird issue as I was retuning the 15" for 18gr pellets I noticed I was getting a wide ranging fps spread of like 75 fps no matter what I did. As I was trying to figure it out I pulled the hammer spring out and noticed blue flakes of paint all over the inside of the tube holding the hammer and spring. I pulled out the hammer and the rear guide path was all gunked up with blue paint flakes and some residual lube. Cleaned it up and looking to try it again once I get the o-rings in.

Where did the paint come from? The spring. The spring is painted with a blue paint and I guess over a few thousand shots it started flaking a bit. Not sure if anyone else has seen this before, but I haven't read anything.
Click to expand...
Blue paint huh? I'll have to check mine. Can't say I remember seeing blue paint but maybe I just never paid close enough attention. That is odd.
 
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woogie_man said:
Well I found an issue with mine. I was removing everything to do a reseal. I was removing the front cap where the pressure gauge and foster is located. Was able to unscrew appx half of the threaded portion, and then things seazed up on me. Very little movement but locks up.

I have an email to Tom to see if he has any ideas to get the cap unstuck. Don't want to damage anything of course but also want to get the gun shooting.

Being as the air cylinder is titanium and I am unsure of the cap material. Would think it would be other than titanium to avoid galling, but I'm not sure.
Click to expand...
I had the same thing happen to mine. Talk about breaking into a cold sweat! It would probably be easy to damage the threads if you aren’t careful.
Those threads are very fine, and when partly unscrewed apparently its easy to get them cross threaded or otherwise somehow get them to bind. In mine I CAREFULLY USED A LITTLE HEAT and was able to get it unstuck. I also use anti-seize lubricant on mine now.
 
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ctshooter said:
I just had this issue on my 15" after retuning it. I had the front o-ring give way on me and start leaking. I was able to start unscrewing the front but only about 1/2 a turn. Wrapped the fill/gauge with a couple wraps of leather and then used a vice grip tightened very lightly, just enough to catch on the dip. Unscrewed easily the rest of the way, no harm done. I'm now waiting for some V90 #122 o-rings.

I think the o-ring went after a bunch of emptying and refilling the air tube. I'm speculating it was the heat/cool cycles from the empty fills - the titanium air tube can get pretty hot even with a slow fill.

------------------

On a completely separate note I had another weird issue as I was retuning the 15" for 18gr pellets I noticed I was getting a wide ranging fps spread of like 75 fps no matter what I did. As I was trying to figure it out I pulled the hammer spring out and noticed blue flakes of paint all over the inside of the tube holding the hammer and spring. I pulled out the hammer and the rear guide path was all gunked up with blue paint flakes and some residual lube. Cleaned it up and looking to try it again once I get the o-rings in.

Where did the paint come from? The spring. The spring is painted with a blue paint and I guess over a few thousand shots it started flaking a bit. Not sure if anyone else has seen this before, but I haven't read anything.
Click to expand...
@ctshooter Is it possible that the blue flakes are dried up blue Loctite? I haven’t done any tuning to my Evol since I bought it tuned by @zx10wall. But in my experience in tuning another gun, I have seen blue Loctite applied to the threads of hammer spring tensioner to prevent it from backing out over time. When I changed the setting I had to break the Loctite’s seal and hence my encounter with blue flakes. It also occurs in other areas on airguns. On my Evol the same can be seen around the shoulder bolt as I have had issues keeping it secure and tried blue Loctite on multiple occasions to keep the bolt in place.

Maybe the Evol’s spring is blue. I’ve never taken one out to see what color it is. I’d expect it to have a metallic color or be purple if it were to have a color. Anyhow, just a thought.
 
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Yes, the springs are blue from the manufacturer as a form of identification. We buff the paint off the end where it rides in the RVA to eliminate any possible friction.

I have not seen any flaking to date but I'm sure its possible. If the paint is coming off, I suggest going ahead and removing it all.

ES spreads are almost alway due to a dirty hammer bore. Clean with some patches soaked in brake cleaner then put 1-2 drops of CLP on the hammer. The CLP will distribute itself after a few shots. Do not over lube!
 
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slayer said:
Yes, the springs are blue from the manufacturer as a form of identification. We buff the paint off the end where it rides in the RVA to eliminate any possible friction.

I have not seen any flaking to date but I'm sure its possible. If the paint is coming off, I suggest going ahead and removing it all.

ES spreads are almost alway due to a dirty hammer bore. Clean with some patches soaked in brake cleaner then put 1-2 drops of CLP on the hammer. The CLP will distribute itself after a few shots. Do not over lube!
Click to expand...
I know what ill be doing as preventative maintenance from now on!

Thanks Tom!
 
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