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Akela pellet testing results

For those curious, my Akela so far seems to like the jsb 18.13 best, and the runner up surprisingly is the H&N Baracuda Match 21.14 gr. Is there anything I can do to tweak it a little better for the H&N? What would be the best velocity for the H&N 21.14? I currently have the power on the rifle set to fire the JSB at 925fps, and haven't clocked the H&N yet. Sorry for the rookie questions, but do different pellets have a optimum velocity that it is most accurate at? Basically, I want to know how to tweak the rifle for specific pellets, if that's even a thing.. 😂

The tope two rows are 30 yards, the rest at 50. Shooting prone with a bipod. 



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What a big difference 20 more yards makes. I’ve been shooting the 15 grain JSBs in mine.I have the 14 grn ones also but haven’t tried them.I’m cheap and hate to buy a tin of 500 if they don’t work good. I just got a notification from pyramid air that they’re back in stock. And eBay wants to much money for just a sample pack of them. I just ordered a case for it and got to watch my money until my next paycheck. You might try dialing it down just a tad to see if you get better accuracy. I’m definitely no expert but have seen what results other people have gotten. A lot of the people say that around 875 FPS is good With that size of a pellet.
 
Pull the barrel and BUFF the crap out of the TP port ! Work with a taper hard buff bob and work on the floor of lead in over the TP port !!!!. Your groups will get stupid tight quick!. You should not be able to feel the pellet feed force until it seats into the the full seat of probe throw , These guns have a super DEEP lead in bore with a just shy bolt probe push. Take a pellet and jack it in and then remove the barrel and see where the pellet is seated..........You WILL SEE !!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I kinda got lost on the lapping information, I guess I need it presented in a more scientific form. I have a vague idea of what he is talking about but need more detailed instruction. I bought a barrel blank from LW, machined it to Kral dimensions, installed it and have about a tin thru it with less than what I expected in accuracy. It will shoot 4 in a quarter inch then a flyer making the group around an inch at 50 yards. Thats not to say it won't shoot a real one hole group but its not consistent. I think it has internal problems the barrel can't over come. I have 2 Akela's.
 
I had a LW barrel machined that would do exactly the same thing group 8 or 9 in a ragged hole then a flier or 2. Had another LW barrel done and it shoots like a laser beam now with zero fliers. It was for a Marauder. Lapping and polishing and debur recrown even chopped the choke off and recrown again didnt help that first barrel at all in fact made it even worse so I just gave that first LW barrel away with disclaimer since I was so sick to my stomach after all that work making it worse. Usually chopping the barrel and recrown helps though with sad case barrels.
 
I kinda got lost on the lapping information, I guess I need it presented in a more scientific form. I have a vague idea of what he is talking about but need more detailed instruction. I bought a barrel blank from LW, machined it to Kral dimensions, installed it and have about a tin thru it with less than what I expected in accuracy. It will shoot 4 in a quarter inch then a flyer making the group around an inch at 50 yards. Thats not to say it won't shoot a real one hole group but its not consistent. I think it has internal problems the barrel can't over come. I have 2 Akela's.

If the factory Akela barrel was that bad I would have had Crosman send a free pickup shippers label to swap it out for a new one under warranty, thats what their 5 year warranty is for. I wouldn't do anything to make it obvious to void the warranty though. Mine straight out of the box gets 3/8 to 1/4 at 50 straight out of the tin all under half inch and probably even better if the pellets we're weighed and sorted and lubed with Lemon Pledge (TOM HOLLAND STYLE!).