Akela .177 Optimizing

So how far can you optimize an Akela using all stock parts…?

On another forum (GTA) I was the originator of cutting the stock 3.5” hammer spring down to 2.57” on the .177 Akela.

That spring length worked so well that I never optimized further.

Lately I polished most every part in my Akela and Cayden.

Today I shortened a stock hammer spring to 2.44” (flattened the cut end with a Dremmel butane torch) - to see if I could get an even tighter shot string.

I polished the hammer, inside the hammer where the spring rides and the 2.44” spring itself. I used a little dry lock lube inside the hammer and then reassembled the rifle after taking 4 shots with chrony and getting the hammer spring adjuster set to shoot around 850fps.

I took it outside and shot 13 ten-shot groups into a paper plate at 30 yards (91.26 feet). It was too windy to target shoot the 30 Yard Challenge, so I figured why not see what the Akela’s shot string looked like.

This will probably get better once the spring “settles in” - as these are basically the 1st 130 shots after reassembly.

The result is a 17fps spread over 100 shots. Yep, you read that correctly, 17 fps spread over 100 shots from an unregulated air tube rifle shooting 847-864fps - single fill. Shot from 2900 psi down to 1400psi.

Take a look at the 30 yard 10-shot groups on a windy 42 degree day - with the exception of group 1 where I was adjusting the scope, all groups fit under a dime.

Group 13 got me think I may want to REDUCE velocity into the 833-843fps range - as 7 of the 10 pellets went into a hole the size of 2 .177 pellets (wind blew the other 3 to the right).

I’m also including a shot string I ran with the 2.57” spring - for comparison. That shot string was at slightly higher velocity.

I paid $350 bucks for this rifle on Crosman’s Father’s Day sale. It’s amazing how great they can be with a little elbow grease put into them - no money, just effort.

-Ed

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Nice Job! I too dug into an Akela I picked up for $299 from Utah AG last year. I did drop another $70 or so for a Lane regulator. I essentially followed Sub12's Youtube video and had a great time, as this was the first time I had tuned an air rifle. I also polished the inside of the barrel, put 15 THIN coats of BLO on the stock and 3d printed a few things, one of which was a 1/2" butt piece extender as I thought the stock length was a bit short. I have posted a shot string a few months ago, and it really is not any better than your unregulated Akela. A search should find it for you. I tuned mine to around 800 fps with 10.34 exacts. The sound level seems really low. I'm not sure I need it any lower.

Your stock looks nice...beyond how mine looked out of the box. Did you do something to it?
 
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So how far can you optimize an Akela using all stock parts…?

On another forum (GTA) I was the originator of cutting the stock 3.5” hammer spring down to 2.57” on the .177 Akela.

That spring length worked so well that I never optimized further.

Lately I polished most every part in my Akela and Cayden.

Today I shortened a stock hammer spring to 2.44” (flattened the cut end with a Dremmel butane torch) - to see if I could get an even tighter shot string.

I polished the hammer, inside the hammer where the spring rides and the 2.44” spring itself. I used a little dry lock lube inside the hammer and then reassembled the rifle after taking 4 shots with chrony and getting the hammer spring adjuster set to shoot around 850fps.

I took it outside and shot 13 ten-shot groups into a paper plate at 30 yards (91.26 feet). It was too windy to target shoot the 30 Yard Challenge, so I figured why not see what the Akela’s shot string looked like.

This will probably get better once the spring “settles in” - as these are basically the 1st 130 shots after reassembly.

The result is a 17fps spread over 100 shots. Yep, you read that correctly, 17 fps spread over 100 shots from an unregulated air tube rifle shooting 847-864fps - single fill. Shot from 2900 psi down to 1400psi.

Take a look at the 30 yard 10-shot groups on a windy 42 degree day - with the exception of group 1 where I was adjusting the scope, all groups fit under a dime.

Group 13 got me think I may want to REDUCE velocity into the 833-843fps range - as 7 of the 10 pellets went into a hole the size of 2 .177 pellets (wind blew the other 3 to the right).

I’m also including a shot string I ran with the 2.57” spring - for comparison. That shot string was at slightly higher velocity.

I paid $350 bucks for this rifle on Crosman’s Father’s Day sale. It’s amazing how great they can be with a little elbow grease put into them - no money, just effort.

-Ed

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Thanks for the information! Looks like I might be able to make my Akela work at a lower power range (~12-16 fpe) by cutting the HS, but I am still pissed that Crosman is STILL selling this gun without even offering an alternative spring. Sure, it *might* be good for heavy slugs OOTB, but it isn't marketed for that and Crosman is now pushing their fully automatic BB guns... seems Crosman has lost their way.
 
I am shooting Howler slugs 12.6 out of my stock Akela now and quite pleased with the results. I but bought a Huma Air reg for it, after watching Sub12's video, but have not yet installed. Gonna do the polishing he recommended, and now that I have seen this thread, gonna give the hammer and spring polishing a go. I am still shy about cutting my spring. I'm brand new to PCPs, so I gotta build up some experience and confidence.
 
I am shooting Howler slugs 12.6 out of my stock Akela now and quite pleased with the results. I but bought a Huma Air reg for it, after watching Sub12's video, but have not yet installed. Gonna do the polishing he recommended, and now that I have seen this thread, gonna give the hammer and spring polishing a go. I am still shy about cutting my spring. I'm brand new to PCPs, so I gotta build up some experience and confidence.

If you are shooting slugs, you may want to keep the spring at the stock 3.5”. This will maximize power.

With the spring at 3.5” and shooting pellets, the Akela .177 is almost unusable. With the stock 3.5” spring, the shot string will be steadily declining in velocity from the 1st shot (“cliff“ shot string) - even with the hammer spring adjuster backed all the way out. Velocity with 10.3g pellets will always be over 900+ FPS - unless you use the transfer port adjuster knob to cut the power.

The stock .177 Akela was so bad for pellet shooting, I spent days testing various hammer spring lengths. The 2.57” spring turned the rifle from unusable into amazing.

The spring is part# CR-017 from Crosman (Velocity Outdoors). It costs $3.50. The spring for the .177 and .22 (Akela/Cayden/Kratos) is the same part - 3.50 inches in length. The CR-017 for the .25 caliber is 4.25” in length. Crosman will ask you for your caliber when ordering part# CR-017. Buy a few and experiment - don’t cut it shorter than 2.45”.

Even if you cut it shorter than you want - it only costs $3.50 to buy a new sprin….

- Ed
 
I put a higher magnification scope (6x24 Athlon) on my Akela today and shot just one “30 Yard Challenge “ target with it.

I was actually still zeroing the scope as I shot this target- I shot #1 then #2 then #4. After #4 I did a click down on #3.

Magnification definitely helped- using a good 4x14x scope, it was very hard to see well the tiny dot bull - even at 14x.

Interesting was that I had a new tin of FX/JSB 10.3g and they were inconsistent in 3 of my best rifles. I had not come across a tin of JSB 10.3g that was this bad before.

So I actually shot this target with 9g “Air Boss” domed pellets from a company named Apolo - they are in Argentina. I think Air Boss is their premium line of pellets. They seem to be pretty damn good - and significantly cheaper than FX/JSB.

It’s pretty amazing how good you can make these Craftsman Series guns with a little elbow grease. I have polished most of the internals and have the trigger breaking at 5.8 ounces.

I have not done anything (yet) to the barrel - other than clean it with pull through patches and Ballistol.

If anyone else has tips for how to optimize your Akela / Cayden or Kratos, please add them to this thread.

-Ed

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If you are shooting slugs, you may want to keep the spring at the stock 3.5”. This will maximize power.

With the spring at 3.5” and shooting pellets, the Akela .177 is almost unusable. With the stock 3.5” spring, the shot string will be steadily declining in velocity from the 1st shot (“cliff“ shot string) - even with the hammer spring adjuster backed all the way out. Velocity with 10.3g pellets will always be over 900+ FPS - unless you use the transfer port adjuster knob to cut the power.

The stock .177 Akela was so bad for pellet shooting, I spent days testing various hammer spring lengths. The 2.57” spring turned the rifle from unusable into amazing.

The spring is part# CR-017 from Crosman (Velocity Outdoors). It costs $3.50. The spring for the .177 and .22 (Akela/Cayden/Kratos) is the same part - 3.50 inches in length. The CR-017 for the .25 caliber is 4.25” in length. Crosman will ask you for your caliber when ordering part# CR-017. Buy a few and experiment - don’t cut it shorter than 2.45”.

Even if you cut it shorter than you want - it only costs $3.50 to buy a new sprin….

- Ed
Quick question if you don't mind: So is the spring the only part needed to undertake this effort? Are there any other parts/consumables that should be ordered at the same time to aid in reassembly without issues? I'd like to have everything on hand when I start in on my Akela .22
 
Quick question if you don't mind: So is the spring the only part needed to undertake this effort? Are there any other parts/consumables that should be ordered at the same time to aid in reassembly without issues? I'd like to have everything on hand when I start in on my Akela .22
The spring is the only part that you modify.

If you want to have a spare one on hand you can order the springs from Crosman (Velocity Outdoors). Part # is CR-017.
 
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So how far can you optimize an Akela using all stock parts…?

On another forum (GTA) I was the originator of cutting the stock 3.5” hammer spring down to 2.57” on the .177 Akela.

That spring length worked so well that I never optimized further.

Lately I polished most every part in my Akela and Cayden.

Today I shortened a stock hammer spring to 2.44” (flattened the cut end with a Dremmel butane torch) - to see if I could get an even tighter shot string.

I polished the hammer, inside the hammer where the spring rides and the 2.44” spring itself. I used a little dry lock lube inside the hammer and then reassembled the rifle after taking 4 shots with chrony and getting the hammer spring adjuster set to shoot around 850fps.

I took it outside and shot 13 ten-shot groups into a paper plate at 30 yards (91.26 feet). It was too windy to target shoot the 30 Yard Challenge, so I figured why not see what the Akela’s shot string looked like.

This will probably get better once the spring “settles in” - as these are basically the 1st 130 shots after reassembly.

The result is a 17fps spread over 100 shots. Yep, you read that correctly, 17 fps spread over 100 shots from an unregulated air tube rifle shooting 847-864fps - single fill. Shot from 2900 psi down to 1400psi.

Take a look at the 30 yard 10-shot groups on a windy 42 degree day - with the exception of group 1 where I was adjusting the scope, all groups fit under a dime.

Group 13 got me think I may want to REDUCE velocity into the 833-843fps range - as 7 of the 10 pellets went into a hole the size of 2 .177 pellets (wind blew the other 3 to the right).

I’m also including a shot string I ran with the 2.57” spring - for comparison. That shot string was at slightly higher velocity.

I paid $350 bucks for this rifle on Crosman’s Father’s Day sale. It’s amazing how great they can be with a little elbow grease put into them - no money, just effort.

-Ed

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Thanks so much for your work and reporting here about the .177 Akela!

I cut 1 inch off of my spring and used a lighter to help me bend the cut end to fit snugly on the HS adjuster, but I can't tell you exactly how long my HS actually is now.

How long did it take before your cut spring took a set and stabilized? I don't know how many turns in I have had on my adjuster, but I started with about 825fps @ 3000psi and now only pump up to about 2600psi and am getting about 2-3 mags at ~779fps.

Based on what you are getting with the 2.44 spring, I am thinking about adjusting the HST to try and match that.

I already have a Fortitude .177 for shorter ranges and plan to use the Akela for slightly longer ranges out to maybe 70 yards or more.

Since all I do is pest, shot count isn't a big deal for me. Hand pumping isn't hard when done after 28 rounds. (smile)

Consistency is what I am after because accuracy/precision is what I am all about. I use an 8-34x56 Athlon Argos on this gun so I can aim at a tree rat or chipmunk's tiny freckle or hair. Not just their head or heart area. As I said, although I only pest, I like to make clean kills and take pride in clean kills.

Anyway, I thought I might have screwed up cutting off a full inch from the HS, but this post tells me I got lucky!

I will never own another regulated airgun. Although my .177 Fortitude Gen2 has been my only pester for 3 years, I was missing too often for the last year and only recently looked into it to find that the regulator is failing. It is still under warranty, but since I don't shoot long strings of shots unless I am testing/zeroing a gun... my main concern is consistency and accuracy/precision. Especially that first shot.

If I purchase another airgun it will have to be as quiet as a .177 Marauder/Akela, but LIGHTER! And non-regulated! Less parts to break and have to repair or pay to get repaired.

If ONLY Crosman/Benjamin would make a side lever Marauder that is LIGHTER! Forget the semi-auto crap. Just make it not be a brick of lead!

OK... enough from me... up all night with dental problems... surgery scheduled for Oct. 2.

Thanks
 
Thanks so much for your work and reporting here about the .177 Akela!

I cut 1 inch off of my spring and used a lighter to help me bend the cut end to fit snugly on the HS adjuster, but I can't tell you exactly how long my HS actually is now.

How long did it take before your cut spring took a set and stabilized? I don't know how many turns in I have had on my adjuster, but I started with about 825fps @ 3000psi and now only pump up to about 2600psi and am getting about 2-3 mags at ~779fps.

Based on what you are getting with the 2.44 spring, I am thinking about adjusting the HST to try and match that.

I already have a Fortitude .177 for shorter ranges and plan to use the Akela for slightly longer ranges out to maybe 70 yards or more.

Since all I do is pest, shot count isn't a big deal for me. Hand pumping isn't hard when done after 28 rounds. (smile)

Consistency is what I am after because accuracy/precision is what I am all about. I use an 8-34x56 Athlon Argos on this gun so I can aim at a tree rat or chipmunk's tiny freckle or hair. Not just their head or heart area. As I said, although I only pest, I like to make clean kills and take pride in clean kills.

Anyway, I thought I might have screwed up cutting off a full inch from the HS, but this post tells me I got lucky!


Best way to measure spring length is an inexpensive caliper - plastic jaws are less than 10 bucks.

Circled in red (in photo below) are velocities achieved in my Akela using the 2.57” spring length and a fill pressure of 2,600 psi during the testing. (This is my post from at least a year ago over on GTA forum).

The magic with Akela/Cayden/Kratos shot strings starts to happen after the spring is cut below 3.00”. I spent dozens of hours testing springs - gradually reducing length by 1/10” (sometimes less!). So, I’m sharing this to help save you time and effort…

…don’t just randomly cut the stock spring. Carefully measure. You will want 2.57” (2.6) for .177 and 2.8” for .22 caliber.

To achieve this, cut you .177 down to 2.7 - then flatten the cut end - the flattening should reduce your spring length to about 2.55 - 2.60”.

I’ve documented the shot string results you should expect to see at this length, similar results have been confirmed in dozens of rifles.

If you want to cut even further (like my current 2.44” for 1.77), I’d suggest that you do it extremely gradually - i.e. clip 1/8 of a coil at a time from your 2.57” spring.

You can see by comparing my 2.57” vs. 2.44” shot strings that I posted above that the .13” difference in length results in noticeably more turns in on the hammer spring adjuster. I think it coil binds (no longer allows cocking) at about 8.5 turns in.

For this reason, I suggest that you stay at 2.57” if you may want to shoot heavy weight (13.4g) .177 pellets. If you always want to shoot 8.4g and lighter pellets, than you can experiment with down to 2.4”

Heck, its so easy to swap springs that you can have multiple springs to “tune” your .177 Akela for various purposes - i.e. use a 2.6” spring with 10-13g pellets for hunting and shooting outdoors, and swap to a 2.45” spring for indoor target shooting with 7-8g pellets during the winter.

Finally, I own both regulated and unregulated higher-end PCPs. A beautiful thing about the unregulated is the shot-to-shot consistency it rarely varies more than 3 fps. Regulators may keep an end-to-end shot string flatter, but shot-to-shot variances may be higher if your regulator and hammer spring are not operating in harmony (i.e. hammer spring at 95-97% of max velocity of set reg pressure).

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