Ahh it drives me nuts over the years ive owned my Texan no matter what i do the tank lossens..Accuracy suffers..No matter how tight i tighten tank spin-loc and set screw it always works free some how.. I can achieve accuracy with my .510 but the tank valve has to be perfectly tight.. The big spring and hammer with one once slugs lossens most things.. I really wish for a much larger set screw that i wouldnt have to worry about stripping out...
Airforce AIRFORCE Texan tired of tank loosening!!!
- Thread starter RM.510bigbore
- Start date
As long as these rifles have been around, I would think the folks at Airforce Airguns would troubleshoot known issues and introduce sturdier components.
I think im going to have the set screw for the tank drilled and tapped for a much larger set screw...As it is now when i get the tank tight enough not to move..I cant even remove with spin lok wrench , without breaking them..Broke 3 this year...I have to use a punch and hammer and hit edge of spin lok to get to loosen..If i tighten as a normal person will...It will loosen after 15-20 shots...Man it makes me mad...Every time groups open up...Dang tank loose again.
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Have you tried a thread locker on the spin lock ring? The bad with going to a larger set screw is you may also be decreasing the thread pitch with the larger screw. With the thin walled extrusion that may cause thread stripping on the extrusion.
I would lean toward getting things reasonably tight, and then transfer punch the set screw hole onto the spin lock collar. Take apart and drill a shallow counter sink at that punch mark. That will give the set screw something to seat into and lock things down. Maybe change to a pointed set screw at the same time.
I would lean toward getting things reasonably tight, and then transfer punch the set screw hole onto the spin lock collar. Take apart and drill a shallow counter sink at that punch mark. That will give the set screw something to seat into and lock things down. Maybe change to a pointed set screw at the same time.
You could have a bigger set screw, or you can have 2 put in.
I think it's also because of the stock being unsupported, since I have had the Mad Dog stock and put a small piece of rubber under the bottle, I haven't had It loosen. Instead of Airforce making new pcps (TX REX) it would be nice to have them redesign the rear of the stock so that would no longer be a problem.
I have a full stock on my Texan also...That is a good idea..Ill find some rubber today and make a wedge between tank and stock...Ill try the rubber wedge and lok-tite on the set screw..I will try everything possible before finding someone with a milling machine to do new set screws..Very thankful for the ideas and expierence provided
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That's why we are here and your Welcomed.
you can put some teflon tape around the valve threads and if that works you might order a new nut it could be out of spec but if you hold the gun tight and push down hard with your cheek I would definately fill the gap between the stock and bottle . Mad dog himself told me to do that if I had a problem.
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Here's what I did to eliminate tank movement and really gives me stability and accuracy. Simply using the tank band that came with the aluminum bottle. I'm getting 5 good shots with .58L bottle
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Always willing to display my ignorance!
How is it that the bottle when filled unscrews so easily.
I would think the pressure would hold it in place.
Someone, please explain
Thanks
Edward
How is it that the bottle when filled unscrews so easily.
I would think the pressure would hold it in place.
Someone, please explain
Thanks
Edward
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Yeah, it's the lock nuts like on an AR that holds the tank and valve into position in the frame near barrel where the slug is loaded. There is a set screw that is supposed to hold the lock nut but like everything that is used a lot, wears out. Your correct that the bottle and valve can't be separated without explosion but its the spin lock that he is having trouble with. The answer I have is the tank band has a base that can be drilled and attached to the stock after the cutout is made. Then the band is secure to stock and ready to slip the bottle in and tighten. The Texan has kick and the bottle shakes (unable to see with naked eye) and causes the nut to work loose if components are worn. Being secured to the stock also creates a solid shot resulting in better accuracy. I talked with Doug at Maddog about this and he agreed it would help. Just got to get crafty.
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I just got a .257 Texan. Bottle came loose the first time I had it at the range. I put a light film of silicone grease on the valve threads to make it a bit easier to torque down the locking nut. So far it seems to have worked. Now I need more air.
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Yeah, I tried everything except putting multiple set screws. I could have had someone drill and tap those( I didn't want to try it myself) but for a few dollars more I had Doug Russell who is a great guy , make me a stock to help support the whole wobbly gun (which I absolutely love) from flex. He created a longer shoulder stock due to longer 5.8L bottle, which caused a bit longer trigger pull (which wasn't an issue for me) but I was then able to utilize that bottle band Airforce supplied with their removable shoulder stock on Texans. I inverted the band base, drilled and countersunk 2 mounting holes in it, gently cut out a flat area in stock and used carpenter glue to keep the screws from backing out of stock. Tightened down the tank on gun then installed the bands around bottle and problem for me solved. I haven't had it come loose ever in the last couple of years.
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I don't compromise accuracy and setup while hunting so the bottle is never removed and replaced with a backup until maintenance. I have a great white for the range and I don't swap out bottles especially hunting. I utilized a hydration pack , removed the flask and carry this paintball tank setup for refilling if needed on hunting trip. I get 2 fills with it from the dumping point 2000psi to 3500psi. So I get 7 shots (from initial fill) x 3(counting 2 fills)= 21 for hunting ... just in case. This keeps me from unscrewing everything in field 
and wondering if it's still zeroed in.
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I used a chucking reamer to seat my 250gn dish base Griffin Airgun Slugs into the barrel 1/8". See my previous pics (not in order) where slug sticks out and then the middle pic where it's in 1/8". With the tank secured to the stock and less air outside the barrel behind the slug my shots have squeezed down and I consistently (if I keep the barrel clean of lead and dry) get tight groups even to 100yds. Texans flex a lot so if you can reduce flex the slow moving slug can travel in a straighter fashion bu anchoring it to a stock. IMO.
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